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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 05-09-2011, 04:25 PM   #1
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Best way to properly install 22RE Exhaust Manifold Studs?

I have searched everywhere... here, Google, FSM, and tried a few other things. My problem is I can't find info on the propper way to install my exhaust manifold studs.

I have a 1988 4runner, 22re, and am installing a Pacesetter header. Because the old exhaust manifold studs looked to be all different lengths and I would have needed to use 2 washers on one, I decided to buy the LCE exhaust manifold stud kit.

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...5-4E8F9C45B1C9

The best way to install these, as far as I can tell, is to use high heat, copper anti-sieze on the threads and use two nuts tightened against each other (on the header side) to install and torque them to 33ftlbs.

1) Does this sound correct?
2) Should I use copper anti-sieze, some type of loc-tite, or nothing at all?
3) Are any of the threaded holes for these studs open to anything in the head that might leak out (water or oil)?

Thanks for any help! Oh, and here is the latest shot from my build...

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Last edited by MortonPhotographic; 05-09-2011 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:52 PM   #2
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DO NOT use loctite! you will pull the threads off next time you replace the studs!

you won't attain accurate torque specs by double nutting it, but it works ok for the most part... I prefer to use stud installers myself

use at least some form of antiseize... aerospace grade is best


nice engine and bay btw
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Old 05-09-2011, 04:59 PM   #3
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I have the same kit. I used Red Loctite on the head side let it sit overnight and silver anti-seize on the manifold side. Copper might be better though, I think it's meant for higher temps ????

No fluid passages are blocked by the studs.

Was not aware there was a torque spec for the stud itself into the head. Mine were put in hand tight and left like that.
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:17 PM   #4
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Thanks guys! I have seen 33ftlbs, and 35ftlbs for ther studs. However, 33ftlbs is what the FSM suggests for the exhaust manifold nuts--so I think these figures came from there.

The torque spec guide in the FSM does show studs, I will check it and post my findings.

Edit: The studs I have mostly have no marks at the end making them 4T. Some have a small dot tamped in the end which might make them a 6T (although 6T is said to have a "groove")

If they are 4T number 10 studs torque spec is only 19ftlbs.

If they are 6T number 10 studs torque spec is 29ftlbs.

It has been said that you can't achieve a torque spec of 33ftlbs at the nut unless the stud is torqued to at least that much. Not sure of this is true, but it makes sense.
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:23 PM   #5
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oh yeah... there's also better nuts than in that kit.. exhaust specific locking nuts like what you see from the factory are oblong shaped in the hole... just the last thread or so usually along with 3 "nubs" on it.... they allow very little hand tightening and they don't come off easily as long as you use new nuts

I'll say again, there's never a need for loctite with exhaust fasteners as long as you use new hardware... using proper torque sequence also helps a lot on some particular engines... at least with the 22R it doesn't matter as much due to the design.... so in otherwords, loctite is nothing but trouble! please keep this stuff away from the exhaust!
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Old 05-09-2011, 05:56 PM   #6
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In my experience, if you are pulling off old ones with lots of miles on the motor, your probably going to have a few seized up ones. Lots of corrosion in this area. Various ways of dealing with striped out bolts. If you want to keep the same diameter and bolt size, the helicoil is a good optiion.
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:46 PM   #7
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I am lucky as I have a new-casting head. My old crusty studs, that were put in at the machine shop, came out easily.
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:53 PM   #8
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Finally found Permatex Copper Anti-sieze. Used it on the LCE studs. Could not get them tight enough to "break" the torque wrench so I gave up. Even at 19ftlbs I was afraid I was going too far so I just tightened each stud by hand. I used two nuts tightened against each other. So far, so good.

The Pacesetter header is posing its own problems... It hits the transmission where it meets the engine and is too close to one bolt. I just took it to Fesler Built and used an air chisel with hammer bit to bound in these two spots. In my opinion, if you are buying a cheap header like the Pacesetter (I read the info here and knew what I was getting myself into) I say DO NOT buy the ceramic coating. I have it and have had to mess it up to make the header fit. Just get the painted version, make all the adjustments you need, and then paint it with uber high temp paint.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:53 PM   #9
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thats why I call this brand pacesetter... they always have made low quality parts, like OBX... you just have to expect stupid problems like these

19ft lbs is plenty for studs... in fact, I usually only torque exhaust studs down to 8 to 15ft lbs on any car I work on

Last edited by dropzone; 05-10-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:20 AM   #10
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subscribed because I have new exhaust studs from LC for my son's 3vze
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:41 AM   #11
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which of the 2 pace setter headers did you use? i was going to get one for my build b/c i'm not looking to spend $400 on a top quality header for a beater truck
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:24 AM   #12
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I guess its already done but for future reference, make sure the holes are nice and clean before you put the studs in..
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:32 AM   #13
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I had no Idea there was even a spec on tightening the studs, I just did my 22re rebuild, and I just installed new studs hand tight, does anyone think this is going to pose a problem? Should I go back and torque those babies or what?
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:56 AM   #14
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I didn't either, just hand tight. And my Downey header is fine. But I did use the loctite on mine. I still got to look, but I do not recall anything in the FSM about the tightness of the stud itself in the head.
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:49 AM   #15
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The studs dont need to be torqued. It is just driving the stud into the aluminum behind the threads. I had one come out after I had the LCE head installed with my rebuild. My mechanic used a helix coil to give the stud something to hold on to. I would avoid loc tight.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:41 AM   #16
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hand thread, no thread locker, then I used vice grips on the non threaded part to torque them down comfortably. Also used lc stud kit
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:12 AM   #17
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Cool

I think your problem is the pace setter header has a thinner flange than the LC engineering header. The LC header has a half inch thick flange that connects to the head. The unthreaded portion of the stud is half an inch thick where the pace setter flange is thinner. I had my LC header for over a year and I love it. I thought about the pace setter but it lacked the quality I was looking for and the Doug Thorley headers where the nicest I found but they are pricy.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:12 AM
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