3rnr

I have wrote and re-wrote this thread a few times prior to posting it... I can't seem to find a way to word all of the things I am wondering about here and it's almost kind of frustrating! This is all despite quite a few months of researching rust removal and treatment options, products out there, and reading through hundreds of forum posts across the Internet.

My 1990 Toyota Pickup isn't actually very rusty considering that it's spent its entire 26 years in the northern states. I have read about POR15, Eastwood's products, Rust Bullet, etc. so much in recent months that I can hardly remember what is what anymore and my head hurts thinking about it all and I'm actually more confused now than I was before I considered all of these different options! Seriously!

As you can see from the pictures that I posted below of my truck's undercarriage, it's really not all that bad - and thankfully - the body panels are in excellent shape - no cancer! The leaf springs and pumpkins have more surface rust on them than paint, and I think this would make them great candidates for POR15, no? However, the rust on my frame seems to be in these weird, small, patchy areas of "speckled" rust spots where the factory undercoating has came off. I am very confused on what would be the best way to take care of the frame. I have read that POR15 doesn't adhere very well to painted surfaces and that it must be applied to rust or bare metal for best results. Could I just wire-wheel these rusty speckled areas on my frame and put a few coats of POR15 over them (followed by some Rustoleum later on), or will the surrounding undercoating that is still on the frame in these speckled areas cause the POR15 not to stick? Perhaps I could "rough up" the patchy, rust-speckled areas with a 40 grit sanding disc and that would be abrasive enough to make the POR15 stick? I hate to take off any more factory undercoating than I absolutely have to... it's done a great job past two and a half decades, I might as well leave as much of it on there as I can. Another thing I'm wondering (if I decide to go the POR15 route) is if I should use their [POR15's] Metal Prep (formerly known as Metal Ready) to help etch the surface and give it a zinc phosphate coating; and if I do use it around the speckled areas - will it cause any of the undercoating to come off? Did those of you use Metal Ready/Metal Prep who have used POR15 on your Toyotas?

The other thing I'm a little confused about is what would be the best way to keep rust from forming on the non-frame, non-suspension related stuff; like the bottom of the pickup bed (as can be seen in the very last picture above the muffler) for example ? As you can see in the last picture I posted, the bottom of the box is pretty rust free. It almost looks like bare metal, but I can't tell for sure. I'm just wondering if this is something that can be painted, or should be encapsulated and then painted.

I apologize if my thread - or at least some of it - doesn't make any sense on what exactly I'm trying to ask here... I'm usually pretty good at writing and getting my point across, but in this case and after all of the stuff I've read in recent months about rust treatment (and not finding answers to many questions), I'm just flat-out confused. As much as I'd LIKE to be as frugal as I possibly can be, I'm even considering just paying a body shop to undercoat it for me. I'd hate to do that, but I really don't know what the best way to tackle any of this is (other than, as I said earlier, I do think my leaf springs and pumpkin are in the "right condition" to apply POR15 to them). I guess I could always try doing it myself, and if I screw up, then bring it to a body shop. If it helps add to the circumstances any: I don't have a shop to work in, and if I decide to tackle this myself, I will be doing it all in my driveway with power tools, hand tools, and lots of elbow grease.

My truck really isn't even that bad (for rust), but I want to get the rust that is there (even the small stuff) stopped dead in its tracks. I just don't know which way would be the best to go about this, or which products would be best to use given the circumstances (as seen in in the pictures). If anyone has anything they can offer in any of these areas, or what you would do if you were in my shoes, I would appreciate any input.


Pictures of my 1990 Toyota Pickup's undercarriage (yes, I realize in some pictures that I still need to do some degreasing):

22R88

I used Loctite Rust Extend on mine 4 years ago and it was a little better shape than yours. Just brush and leaves a nice black finish. Look for it at Wal Mart.com


22R88

Innocent Fool

To answer this question you need to define the scope by answering these questions
- How much MONEY are you willing to spend on this
- How much of your TIME are you willing to put into it
- How LONG do you want this work to last? (Long enough to sell, 1 yr, 5 yrs, 10+ yrs)

I went the long route and did a total tear down and build up. I dismantled the truck, took the frame in for sandblasting, and had it epoxy coated. I then sandblasted and epoxy primed all the rust on the body myself and put it back together.

The thing is it's not really expensive cash wise but it IS time consuming. I went this route because sandblasting is the only thing I'm confident in to eliminate rust long term.

If that's to much time and money then the next thing I would look at is treating the rust with phosphoric acid to neutralize it. Do NOT use muratic acid or hydracloric acid as hydrogen will leach into the metal and cause hydrogen embrittlement. Phosporic acid can be purchased at hardware stores and is used for things like acid etching stone, ceramic, and concrete. To apply the acid just use a brush and brush it on over the rust. Do this 2 or 3 times (The rust should turn black) then wash with water, dry, and epoxy prime. Once again it's not expensive but is time consuming and messy. you shouldn't need to dismantle anything but you might want to wire brush first to knock off all the loose rust. (Look up rust treatments with phosphoric acid on the internet to get more info)

I've only tried POR15 on a couple of test pieces but it's been 4 years so far and seems to be holding up. Just follow the directions, remove all oil/grease, sand with sandpaper, and apply with brush.

I've never found that grinding or sanding rust has ever done anything for the long term. It always comes back...

Most of this isn't expensive as you can do it yourself, it's just time consuming and messy.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Unless you go the full on route of tearing everything down and sandblasting to start over, you won't really stop the rust entirely. Even if you did all that it can still come back especially in the region you live in. Luckily I don't have to deal with rust but have seen lots in pics and yours doesn't even look rusty IMO but the axles do look rusty.

If it were my truck I'd just spend some time with a wire wheel or similar attachment on a grinder and take care of the heavy spots and any "loose" rust, then follow up with the POR15. That stuff is good paint and I believe it bonds best to metal with light rust on it since it chemically bonds to the rust.

After it's all cured I think a coating of Fluid Film, Krown, etc would be a good investment since it will help protect everything its sprayed on. I think they even spray it inside door panels and frame, etc. Guessing it costs under $200 for whole vehicle?

osv

homedepot sells that stuff, it's called jasco, and it works pretty well after you've wire-brushed the rust off.

it's not designed to be used in conjunction with sand blasting, don't do that, just use a wire wheel on a drill, and keep it wet for a certain amount of time, don't let it dry prior to washing it off... one long application should do it, if you did a good job of brushing the rust off first.

that truck frame looks much better than some i've seen, but it'll be worse in the areas that you can't easily see, like the top of the frame, where it can't run off... i'd put a mirror and a light up there, to check it out.