Best oil n filter 92 toyota 4cyl
10-29-2015, 08:31 PM
#3
I'm using the Motorcraft FL-400S oil filter. Because of the way the filter mounts on this engine you want to use a filter that has a good anti-drain back valve to avoid start up rattle. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=327037 Your best oil choice varies with the climate and the condition of the engine.
Last edited by chuckross1957; 10-31-2015 at 08:51 PM.
10-29-2015, 09:47 PM
#6
Registered User
I got mine from Amazon.com. Olath is another and 1st Toyota Parts (believe they're based in Washington State). Both changed their policy per Toyota of North America where they now cannot sell/ship to Hawaii because we're served by Toyota of Hawaii and prices are much higher.
10-29-2015, 11:01 PM
#7
On my 22REC engines I was using Wix filters and Castrol SAE 20/50
It worked for me in the warm Pa climate .
At one time I had quite a few of these engines on the road one fresh rebuild some very high mileage instead of several different oils it was just easier for me to run the same oil in all of them.
It worked for me in the warm Pa climate .
At one time I had quite a few of these engines on the road one fresh rebuild some very high mileage instead of several different oils it was just easier for me to run the same oil in all of them.
Last edited by wyoming9; 10-29-2015 at 11:06 PM.
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10-31-2015, 02:33 PM
#13
Probably the best and easiest to find OEM filter for the US market is the 90915-YZZD1.
There is also a 90915-YZZD3 that is nearly identical but because it is longer it holds more oil.
I have used both of them and I found the YZZD1 actually reduced the duration of my start up noise. It wasn't by a whole lot but I feel every bit helps with these engines.
On a 22R-RE- "In theory" the shorter filter should circulate oil to the timing chain tensioner and get oil to the top end quicker helping to eliminate noisy starts and wear.
The timing chain tensioner at cold start is really what dang near every newer 22R-RE engine owner should be most worried about and here's my reasoning. The head has small pockets near the cam lobes that oil sits in. When you crank the engine the high point of the cam lobe gets dunked into those pockets (Unless you're on a hill) and provides some oil at cold starts. In my eyes that makes the timing chain tensioner more important.
It's my understanding that the start up noise people get is the timing chain flopping around because the timing chain tensioner isn't doing it's job fast enough to keep the slack in check. The timing chain tensioner works off of oil pressure and the sooner you can create good pressure the sooner it will push on the chain and take the slack out.
A couple of quotes from another forum:
"There is one drawback to using a larger filter. The timing chain tensioner in the 20r,22r and 22r-e is fed by oil pressure.
The filter on these engines is mounted with the threads lower than the endcap, not much but slightly. This will allow the filter to drain back if the drainback valve doesn't work properly.
When the truck is started the un-tensioned timing chain whips around untill the filter fills with oil and pressurizes the tensioner.
In the meantime the timing chain is flying around in the timing cover, this breaks the runners. Once the runners break the chain wont tighten and will eat through the aluminum cover or allow the chain to jump which bends valves."
I assume he's talking about the chain guides.
"Another thing is that while the tensioner is hydralic it has a alot of spring pressure built into it. This prevents the wipping mentioned inthe above post at start up. If you ever get wipping you can bet that the tensioner needs to be replaced along with the guides."
While this could be true when I use the smaller filter it reduces the duration of the start up noise. That tells me the tensioner needs more than just the spring pressure to control the timing chain slack at start up.
A dealership may try handing you a YZZG1 filter. I don't think it's that great of an option. I ran one before I did a bunch of research. My local dealership told me it was an upgrade over the YZZD1. When that filter is cut open and examined it looks exactly like a Purolator Classic with an added silicone anti-drain back valve. To me that is an inferior ADBV for these engines.
I ran the G1 filter for a while. From what I remember it was in fact slightly shorter than the D1 filter. It worked ok for a short while the duration of the start up noise was lasting longer so I swapped it for the YZZD3 which was better.
I also used the Motorcraft FL-400S it was good at first but it started to leak so I swapped it for something else. I think it was about equal to the YZZD3 filter for start up noise. I was never sure what it was doing to my oil pressure during normal driving so I'm not sure I would run one again unless I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge to tell exactly what effect it had on it. I'm not too concerned what the Toyota specified YZZD1 filter is doing to my oil pressure.
From bobistheoilguy
"If you are running a Toyota 22R or 22 RE this applies to you.
Just wanted to update everybody on this topic. Over time I have found the FL-400s has not kept oil pressure up as well as it first indicated upon installation. I just switched over to the OEM Toyota Filter last week and will be running this filter indefinitely. It really does hold pressure far better than the FL-400s. Even after sitting for days. As of yet I haven't inspected the tensioner mechanism, plastic chain guides etc however that will be my priority when the weather get a bit warmer."
As far as the best oil it's pretty subjective depending on how low the temperature you're operating in is and how many miles the engine has. Lower temperatures require a lower first number like 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30. The lower that first number is the easier the oil can flow at lower temperatures and cold starts. 0W-30 and 5W-30 oils are the rage over at bobistheoilguy because they swear it helps the engine last longer because the oil circulates faster on any start up. I'll soon be draining my mineral based Valvoline VR1 20W-50 oil for some 5W-30 or 10W-30 for winter usage.
Higher mileage engines generally like thicker oil because they normally have a little looser clearances from repetitive friction and some contaminants which results in slight losses of metal. It's said the thicker oil gives an engine with looser clearances a little more protection because the thicker viscosity creates a bigger cushioning effect between the metal parts and it helps to raise the oil pressure.
During the summer I tried mineral based oil of two weights, 15W-40 and 20W-50 on my 22RE. My engine has at least 160,000 miles and the thicker oil helped quiet it down at all rpm's, especially the VR1 20W-50.
Conventional Mineral Based Oil vs. Fully Synthetic Oil- Of The Same Viscosity:
Owners of 22RE's have noted that when they used Fully Synthetic oil of the same viscosity the operating noise was louder than that of the mineral based oil.
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Last edited by Odin; 11-08-2015 at 08:01 PM.
10-31-2015, 02:48 PM
#14
Registered User
Really? I was taught in high school auto shop not to exceed the manufacturer's specs on oil capacity. The extra oil may ruin your engine in the long run but that was 34 years ago. Thanks
11-04-2015, 10:39 PM
#19
My vehicles are older and have high mileage. I'm having good results using a base mix of Accel 10w-40 and Supertech 20w-50. What I add to the base mix varies. I found using a 1/2 qt to one qt of Mobil 1 agrees with my 22R. Generally, I end up with a mix that is all or mostly conventional, close to a 15w-40 weight. Listening to the engine plays a part in what I use, if I have noisy valves I add CD2.
11-08-2015, 11:22 AM
#20
Registered User
Very interesting guys, I've been using 10W-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage for the most part of 5 maybe 10 years or Penzoil Platinum Ultra which ever is on the shelf at Wal-mart. Prior that it was either Amsoil 10W-30 or Castrol Syntec or Valvoline Synthetic, which ever was available. I'll give 15/40 Rotella or 20W-50 a try either mineral or full synthetic.
