shadowbirdie

I got an adequate deal yesterday for a 45 minute ride, and my first trip out of Idaho in a few years, a high end hitch carrier for my rig, and an intact and apparently functional tranny/ Tcase combo which fits my 91 truck $75 total.
Currently in the rig is a cable speedo gear and the Tcase at this point doesn't shift as it should, in the free almost deal appears a connector (electronic with speedo sensor assumed), is there still a speedo gear in place so as I could just discard the electronic if so inclined? No mention at all in the Haynes Manual.
Thanks

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

91 and older was a cable driven speedometer and 92 and newer is electrical driven. I have always been curious to see what it would take to make one work with the other myself.

jbtvt

I've never checked but would assume that they didn't build a different Tcase for each speedo type so you should be able to remove the sensor and gear as one unit, swap in your other one, bolt up the case, plug in, and drive. Switching from manual to electronic would likely need the computer, wiring, and cluster, from electronic to manual would likely require the cable and cluster.

shadowbirdie

As I looked thru that great 93 FSM posted couple weeks ago Thanks!!
And it's close enough to the 91 appears the gear is still there they just pasted a sensor pad (like inside the distributor) to the shaft. Only a couple bolts to dig in and take a peek. If so I'm not going to try and repair the current and just swap speedo mechanism and toss it in and call it good.
Otherwise it appears in excellent condition.

On the motor, I turned it over last night no EFI, no fuel, no spark, no disasters with the water although I found out the parts stores won't take contaminated oil.
With that I have to repeat that if you want me to recycle you must not continue to make it more difficult, simpler promotes compliance.
The California and DC mindset has no business in Idaho.

jbtvt

Contaminated with what? They burn that in waste oil heaters. Around here they take gear oil and tranny fluid also. Can't burn it if it's full of water though...and probably wouldn't want to if it was full of cadmium. Throw it on a bonfire.

CA might be grossly overregulated, but go to the opposite extreme and you wind up with sights like this.



It's all about the middle ground.

shadowbirdie

Somebody knows this, no free info out there but much paid offered.
As mentioned above before the environmentals, I got myself a free tranny and Tcase, now I have two, the free one appears excellent and going into the rig, the one currently in my rig has more and more problems, I'm almost suspecting sabotage which is sad but possible.
The immediate question I have a switch in the new free one, the one in the rig has a hex plug in it's place. Pictured is the functional simple Normally open switch, leads have been cut off so replacement as opposed to repair. Haynes refers to "restrict pins" If it was further back I would suspect it the missing 4X4 indicator in the dash.
On the sabotage? Drained the installed Tcase, water first, motor oil second and last tranny gear oil in that order, along with metal filings on the magnet.
5 speed also had some contamination when drained, not as drastic, a little water and metal filings on the magnet and in the bucket(could be aluminum?)
Anyway the motor fired up the other day for about 15 minutes in the end, I have either a small radiator or PS hose leak, haven't gotten back to it, just too HOT up here right now.
What is this switch for?
Thanks J
What connection between these components and the motor would allow this cross contamination?

millball

There is no possible way that water from engine cooling could foul the tranny or t. case.

Water in these cases is from condensation, or from the cases being submerged in water while stuck, or while fording.

Switch might be for reverse lights. Checking switch location against parts diagram would likely tell.

shadowbirdie

If there was any passage I couldn't imagine what it would be, even submerged I can't imagine a water infiltrate except under pressure. There is another switch with 2 wires which connects to the main harness, I had assumed that was the back up light connection, but that one is on the transfer case so I could have them reversed functionwise, but the speedo also comes off the Tcase so further investigation is required. It's epoxy encapsulated so it is possible to dig thru, rewire and fill back in with JBweld, or a very hot trip to pick a Part

millball

Trust me, it is definitely possible for them to fill with water when submerged.

They can even take in substantial water when left uncovered in the rain.

The water goes right around the shifter ball, and in.

shadowbirdie

I love Toyota and one of the reasons is you never have to do this stuff under normal conditions and they are EXTREMELY tolerant of abuse
So many boots on top figured a few drops at most unless completely submerged for a long time, but guess not..
The fluid is sort of a grey goo at the bottom 3/8 inch of the drain pan, the magnet a moderate amount of accumulation
I found thru research that the 4X4 connector is intact, the reverse switch is the one sheared off in the new/free drive set, so the currently installed set with the hex bolt in it's place doesn't have backup lights at all hmmmm?
Dealer or Pick a Part I want a whole rig at least to start with.
Both sets are now empty of fluids, OCD makes me now want to flush out the new of all the crud before install, anything but kerosene to be used?, I heard of that way back on motors but see lots of frowning here on the forum, I prefer to go with Seafoam and call it good motorwise. I see evidence of rear main leak so while I'm in there why not
Thanks

millball

Nothing wrong with kerosene, or diesel. (to flush the gear cases)

shadowbirdie

Been decades since I looked $40 for 5 gallon can only local availability.
On a cool night I'm going with Coleman fuel, seems to me it's kerosene or something close to it as I recall. Lay it down and hand spinning it in 1st gear and 4 High should get things splashing inside. Got some several year old unopened cans as I also collect old Made in Wichita, non Walmart crap Chinese Coleman Lanterns also having been an End of USA Prepper.
Replacement backup light switch found at Pick a Part, like summer in death valley there today, found out of an 87 P/U. Connector is different, I'll just make up something weatherproof, the 91 harness has a 4 pinner, something about with ECT or without ECT, haven't figured out what ECT is yet, or can't find it?
But the color code is straight forward

scope103

Coleman fuel is straight gasoline (or naptha). Much more flammable (and less viscous) than kerosene. Which makes it insanely dangerous to use to clean something. The fumes are heavier than air, so you can be a long way from an ignition source, and the fumes will just slide down the hill to catch a light.

Be careful.

shadowbirdie

Even removing one leg of the fire triangle and being outside, I don't want to waste a valuable fuel source. And since the new drive set isn't in the vehicle yet, and was free/gratis we went with Purple Power at 50/50, still very slippery. Although it isn't easy shifting it around to get it full up persistence pays off.. Limited hand agitation helped break things loose. One day at 103 degrees tomorrow ought to finish cleaning it out. Watching the laws of fluid dynamics has already been very interesting, the remaining small amount of gear oil and all the accumulated crud floated to the top, out the gearshift and out into a bucket.