ColoradoRyan

I'm debating on how to fix my rusty bed. I should have fixed it 13 years ago but I didn't, so this is where I'm at. (Please don't tell me to get a fiberglass bed, if I wanted a fiberglass bed I'll get a new truck lol.) A used bed in decent shape looks like about $700, more than I want to spend.

So what is the cheapest fix for this that will still look great? I'm planning a full color change repaint as soon as the bed is fixed. I don't know how to weld, but I'm willing to take the time to do it right with the fiberglass mat or whatever. The problem is the rust is worst at the seams, and I'm not confident I can match that contour with bondo/mat.

Has anyone ever fixed something like this? Any ideas on what I can do?

How much do I have to cut out? Even the parts that just have surface rust?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give...

-Ryan

wheatus

i would try to make a whole new lower part with fiberglass if you are concerned about the longevity of your truck. that is a really bad location to be using fiberglass filler, it will get wet and crack out pretty quickly. first you need to take off that moulding and scrape off the flaky stuff to get a better idea of what you are working with. with the rust in the seams your new paint job will be trashed in less than a year unless you take care of that too. these two piece beds were just junk but that rust isn't too bad, you should be able to make it look decent if you take your time.

bjslade0269

I agree with wheatus, I live in central Ohio and have tried to fix a few of these. I found that the best was to remove the bed and sand blast all the rusted areas. If you have access to the equipment. I tried to fix my 81 at the seams and it wasn't that bad, but it rusted thru in 1 1/2 years because it was impossible to get the rust out of the seams without removing the lower panel.

MurphyzRunner

Every damn toyota That I've owned has had rust, They salt the out of the roads here in "salt lake city" with that being said dig into it, grind all the rust down, sand, look how big of a gap you have - if you can...weld a filler in. otherwise jerry-rig it....jb weld some fiberglass backer and get a can of marine grade fiberglass hair bondo. slap that on and after many coats and sanding the rust will be gone, for a minute....make sure you prime and paint or the fix will not last long. I did this on a old 83 held up for 2 yrs then I sold her...been working on rust around my front window on the runner, pain in the ass but I hate rust so good luck I feel ya.

jefmac2

Hey Guy-

Tell me about it! I was in same situation- aren't we all- and just thought that I really liked the engineering on the original design too much to scrap it and flatbed it. So- Makita grinder and new blade in the sawzall and took out the sides pretty much ( man- cutting thru that custom paint was killer...) then I installed bulkheads with the exact curvature of the original profile attached to the inside walls with 3/4" gussets. Then I cut and routered oak 1 bys and attached with stainless steel recessed screws finished with oak holeplugs. 3 coats and counting on the Messmer's exterior stain. Man- she is sweeter than before- looks like a styled old woody or old OLD ford from the 1910-20 era. She is constantly turning heads! If you want more info or pics, let me know.

87 IFS PU (trussed so no spread)
trutrak front
detroit softlocker rear
5.29
4" lift
NWOR tri Ys
Cam
Weber
35x12.5s
IFS dual shocks front
custom springs/traction bar rear

jefmac2

Hi-

Here's a pic- we're in CO mountains

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/...e01e9cd2_o.jpg

DupermanDave

Yup. Should have fixed it 13 years ago. Tsk tsk.

I think your best bet is to just replace the bed entirely. So go for the $700.

jefmac2

Hi-



Maybe this will dbl post but here's a pic of the oak job- cost under $100

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3028/...e01e9cd2_o.jpg

DupermanDave

I think I just threw up in my mouth a little.

sincal

that is just ugly Im sorry

DupermanDave

I'm sure if it wasnt blended into the metal frame it would look better.

I would like it better if it was a bed itself, and not a bed/side wood hybrid.

Duelertoyota4x4

TBH...thats really not a hard fix...with or without a welder. Cut off wheel to remove a squared of section larger than the damage. Use the old panel as a template to make a new patch panel. If you have access to a MiG welder make the panel the size of existing hole. If you can only use pop rivets make it a little bigger. To actually make the panel I suggest maybe taking it to a local fabrication shop and have them make the bends you need for the body lines.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

waste of time ... you cant fix a steel bed and have it last .. NO WAY .



there is NO way you can fix this problem by welding in Patch panels .. The rust will take over even the new repairs . waste of money even to try .


see .. in this vintage the bed side is part of the floor .. at the "seam" .. there are 4 layers of metal .. folded into a pinch weld .. if you succeed in quencing 1 part of the rust , there are still 3 other layers to worry about .

why do you think fiberglass beds are so popular ?

.

wheatus

jefmac i think that bed looks pretty good but that is more work than i want to put in mine.

Duelertoyota4x4

Well i guess I have been doin this for the last 10 years with great success under false pretences. You just have to use your head than you are in there. If it looks scaly adress the issue. POR15 or Bill Hirsch Miracle paint will help you alot here also. Every situation is a little different. I can only give advice on what i can see in the picture. I live in the rust belt myself too. And I have fixed ALOT of rust for a LONG time. Its all in the prep work.

Are Fiberglass beds easier? Absolutly. Weill they never rust? Duh..lol. But thats not what he asked. He asked if that was repairable. And it absolutly is.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

on your repairs , how long do you guarentee no more rust ?

I agree with you , but for how long ... and when do you stop spending money on repairing the metal bed ? sides can be patched , but then the floor will rust and then the wheel well will rust .. then the other side will rust .. and then when you finally get it all patched .. the rust will "pop" out in a whole other place .. and then the tail gate will rust .

I have seen it 1000 times in my 28 years ... in fact , when these trucks were NEW , and the seams were rusting Toyota CHANGED there perforation warrenty to 1 year .. specifically because of this problem .

dont get me wrong ... i'm not saying buy a fiberglass bed ... what I'm saying is DONT spend your hard earned cash on repairing a metal bed , it is pointless .


.

ColoradoRyan

thanks for the tips everybody and the encouragement!

For now buying a different bed is out of the question, not easy to find 2wd longbeds (and so far every one I've found has needed some type of body work). Plus it just seems a shame to throw away the whole bed with only a few parts are rusted.

Ok so first step is to cut out the rust. Maybe I'll remove the bed then take it completely apart so I can see what I'm dealing with, and cut away, with a cutting blade on an angle grinder maybe? What is the benefit of sandblasting over cutting?

Then all I have to do is replace the gaping holes with something else, and blend it in.

Welding is off the table because I can't do it myself and don't want to pay someone else to do it. So that leaves me with what? Fiberglass, or sheet metal with pop rivets?

Fiberglass panels are flexible right? So I'm wondering if I can leave enough metal at the top and bottom so I can just patch in the fiberglass behind the metal, then overlay that with what? There is a ridge that the trim piece is attached to and I'll lose that when I cut out the seam, but maybe I can build up a new ridge there?

What products do you recommend I use if I go fiberglass? Should I use some type of sealer on the metal before I do bondo and primer? Any suggestions on where to buy supplies?

If I go the sheet metal route with pop rivets, do I put the new sheet on the outside or the inside? I've never riveted anything, any recommendations on a gun to use? What size rivets? What gauge sheet? I think I would enjoy working with the sheet metal more, even if I do have to have someone else do the bends for me. But I'm guessing it's more likely to rust again because it will just be more 'food' for the rust to find? Any idea on cost? The panels I found online were about $80 each and I'm wondering if that is cheaper than what a custom local shop would charge. But then again i don't think the $80 covers shipping. My seams are starting to rust on all four panels, though what is pictured is far worse than the others.

Thanks in advance for any advice, I'd like to get this truck looking nice by the end of July, it's getting a bit embarassing to drive!

Wheatus, I really liked your painting thread thanks for all that info. I really don't have any body work to do on the cab, a tiny bid of surface rust. It does have that white scaly appearance from the clear coat wearing off. When I'm ready to paint do you think I need to primer the cab, or just the bed? Since I will obviously have bondo or similar on the bed, should I primer the whole outside of the bed or just where the bondo is?

MurphyzRunner, Great info, thanks. Sounds like you've done similar work. Where do you recommend I get these products if I go that route? (fiberglass backer and hair bondo)

Jefmac, nice job! That is so unique and I like the look, goes well with the graphics on the cab. Looks like a Stomper and definitely something that is at home in the mountains. I'm looking for a more stock look for my 2wd rig but thanks for posting that, too cool.

Slacker I know you're trying to sell the fiberglass, but it's just not for me. If I wanted a truck made of fiberglass I'll buy a new one, or a kit sports car. I don't doubt it's durability, but I just don't want it on my truck. It's just not right in my eyes to put a fiberglass bed on a mid 80s toyota truck. Metal has a different sound, a different feel to it. I wouldn't put a fiberglass bed on this truck if one was given to me.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

actually , i'm not trying to sell you anything .. just trying you help you understand toyota METAL beds .. the inhearent problems , and the money pit that will incure on repairing .

not a problem .. fiberglass is not for everyone MOST people dont understand it's complexity and no ... I wont "give you one" ...

I wish you all the best on your repair .

wheatus

could you post some more pics of the truck? it is hard to get an idea of what you are working with. i would like to see the white scaly stuff you are talking about. i don't think your truck has a clear coat on it, it depends on the year. there is no need to prime the cab if the paint is in good shape. my truck needed so much repair and the paint was in such bad shape that i didn't have much choice. if you don't need to prime it will save you a lot of work and some money.

for rust repair you need to be using some type of fiberglass body filler. check auto body suppliers, if you live near the coast you can check with boat repair places. i have seen it at walmart along with fiberglass mat. the most important step in dealing with rust is the prep work. you need to grind and wire wheel all of the rust off. then you need to coat the bare metal with an etch primer, you can get it in rattle cans as soon as possible. i would spray it as soon as i got it cleaned up and when you were ready to do the body work just sand it back off. the second most important step in making rust repair like this last is to protect the body filler from moisture. this means painting the top side and undercoating the backside. if moisture is allowed to get to your repair it will crack out in no time.

ColoradoRyan

Thanks for the help. You can see the flaky stuff that causes discoloration easiest on the upper part of the bed here:



and here's a close-up:



and some on the pillar:



and other pics:















As a side note, any tips on how to fix this minor door dent, and the chrome on the mirror?

What's the best way to remove the pinstriping/decals?



Thanks again,

Ryan