Dreidel

95 22re 2wd motor (if it matters) 4wd v6 manual trans
ok so went to orielys and had them read the codes for me and while i was at it replaced everything thing ignition related except a coil
1 it threw a egr code which has since been blocked off (only the intake for now and it vent to atmos. brings back memories of putting playing cards inthe spokes of my huffy ) cause i thought it was the source of the problem
2 it threw a vss code which i figured that it was vehicle speed sensor but the guy said it was a moisture in the dist cap code maybe i heard vss wrong and he said somthing else idk
3 and it threw a starter signal code which makes sense cause the starter worked loose and was hard starting and had a bad connection which and since been tightened up
he couldnt clear any of the codes for some reason but i reset the ecu to clear them the ce light has not come back on since but the missing problem happened once on my way home
is there a actual code for water in distributor cap, ive been running 15w-40 mobil devac in my truck because its free and frankly it does a good job at keeping the motor clean (no sludge of buildup what so ever) he said somthing about the oil causing a sensor not to read right but that doesnt sound right to me there didnt apear to be any water in the distributor however there was a coating of something in there and the oring is so worn out and dry rotted that it doesnt even protrude out of the dist any more so with my expert anyalisis i have concluded that the oring needs replaced
any suggestions as to why its missing its missing so bad at times that the truck wont accelerate even with your foot on the floor and in first doing 15 mph and if it stops missing with your foot to the floor it will take off light a rocket ship and its confusing me pleasse help i want to go to crawling for the fallen at kansas rocks this weekend and its not happening if this problem procedes

Dreidel

Ok I'm not for sure yet but it's not ignition related because the only thing left to replace is the coil and I know it's not the coil because the tach keeps going when it's "dying"
That eliminates ingnition related problems but not quite eliminating another electrical problem This problem started a while after I rebuilt the motor and sometime later i found a wire shorting to the intake which I taped up and retaped wire harness then wrapped in heater hose to protect it, I recently found out that it was a injector wire. From other research I've learned that if you put injectors with the wrong resistance it will burn the injector driver up. So the question is do you guys think I've burned up the injector driver and that's what's causing my problems?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

1: Disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the EGR valve no reason to be blowing exhaust under the hood.
2: No there isn't a water vapor sensor in your distributor cap.
3: Uhmok..

If the injector driver was faulty it would most likely happen with the whole injector bank, eg not just one miss but all three.

Start with the things you know are wrong, bad distributor cap seal and injector wiring faults. Once you have the known issues fixed you can worry about the missing if it's still there.

You checked the timing after replacing the ignition parts right?!

Dreidel

I didn't checks the timing after but ha it set to 5btdc the week before I could check again and make sure
The injectors are exactly like you said when it happens on the highway the truck will just start compression brakeing like the motor is off and then start back up again by itself the distributor I used brake clean to get the coating out of it and sealed it all around I'm wondering if the injector problem is the same as the no power problem but happening faster than it does on the highway

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Maybe try the ECM voltage inspection for "#10,#20" which are the injector signals. Should have 9-14v, a large difference between the two would point to needing to rewire.

Spraying cleaner into a damaged wire is a bad idea, it migrates along the wire and corrodes more of it. Valence current is substantially more than the current flow in the center of a wire, this is one reason we use multi-strand wire instead of thick gauge solid core wires.

Anyways the good news, Your computer is probably good still the power flows from the battery to the injectors then to the computer which switches the ground. So your burnt up wire would have needed to come in contact with some other power source for the drivers do have been harmed by an over current situation. So good clean wiring and it should be a night and day difference.

Dreidel

Thank you for explaining that to me an helping me through this hopefully it will warn up this week so I can tear into it and find out
Hopefully this will fix the problems I've had sinse around last may ill keep you updated