jumper_bob

Hi,

Just went through the front axle on my 87 4runner (IFS).
Put on new rotors (electric impact wrench made short work of the attaching bolts), and brake pads.
Removed old auto hubs; found lots of problems inside - broken rings and pieces, one of the bolts with big washer that screws into the end of the axleshaft was dangling around, totally unscrewed from the shaft, etc.

cleaned out really well, cleaned the inside of the hub, fresh grease inside, re-packed outer bearings, re-greased the spindle, etc.

As I was attaching the set of manual Aisin hubs I had purchased 3 yrs ago but never installed, I noticed during re-assembly, while referencing the Haynes book exploded diagram, that it looks like either some parts were missing, or I didnt get all the right ones:
as I removed the 54mm locknut during disassembly, I noticed some differences from the Haynes diagram (page 9-3, diagram 2.3c, for the "S12x8 type disc brake - 4wd models").

what I removed was the following:
Auto hub
54mm locknut
outer bearing.

Seems like there should be a "thrust washer' in there somewheres, and the diagram references the following assembly, in order from inner to outer:
- outer bearing
- thrust washer
- 54mm locknut
- lock washer (5 pointed thing in the diagram)
- lock nut (I am unsure of what should be here, is it the same as the 54mm inner locknut?)

So what I currently have in there is:
- outer bearing
- 54mm nut, mostly properly torqued and spaced, as best I could without the thrust washer etc, but i did use a torque wrench; and its been like that for a few years and a few thousand miles. its probably on the "just a RCH too tight" side of torquing, as I wanted it to be snug while it was missing parts.
- manual hub and all parts.

I need to be driving the truck; I am slightly concerned about the missing washers/locknuts, but seeing as how its been like that for a while with no problems, I think I should be able to drive it around town for a day or two until I can get the missing parts.
Anyone think that is a really dumb idea? Am I very likely to grenade the hub while driving around a small-ish town at low speeds (<40mph mostly)?

Any suggestions on where to get or NOT get parts from? I am going to check the local shops first, then RockAuto and some of the offroad sites (lowrangeoffroad, etc).

Thanks, Scott

Sturmcrow

I personally would NOT drive around with just one 54 mm nut. Without the lock washer and other 54mm nut, there is not much of anything keeping that one 54mm nut from walking its way off and your whole hub coming off while driving.

You are not supposed to just "torque down" the first 54mm nut either. You need to get it to a certain tightness, then check the bearing preload with some kind of scale. A fish-scale works pretty well. You are correct that the outer locknut is the same as the inner. I am pretty sure you can pick them up at most any auto parts store too.

Autozone has everything you need on special order for $50 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...5912_488126_0_

or you can get OEM for $22 from http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/sh...rimLevel=14125

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

yes it will come off not only the hub but the wheel .

If I remember it will be held on by the caliper

There will be enough carnage it will be quite interesting depending just how fast your going.

That is why you see on most vendors like Warn when changing from auto hubs to manual they tell you you need the kit.

It was no doubt covered on a bunch of threads here

I might be wrong but you need the 2 thrust washers 2 locks and 2 more nuts .

It would also not hurt to have the correct socket .

The hammer and chisel is not pretty!!

jumper_bob

Okay that is what I was thinking...although it has been fine for the past 3 years / 2,000 miles, why keep rolling the dice? I have seen hubs come loose on some older Fords I owned - one of which was at 70mph on I-40 thru Arkansas, and somehow my 35" Super Swamper crossed 4 lanes, a median, and a barbwire fence, all with no damage to anyone else, or the tire.

So off to the parts store I go... and FWIW, I have the correct big socket, *much* nicer than the hammer/chisel, and on my list was the "fish-scale" to measure the torque as directed in the book; I just didnt have time late last night to get one, so did it "by ear" and by feel to get it good enough for the moment.

Thanks for the input and the info, I appreciate it.
- Scott