KelleyC

I sent him a pm, he said the thread got killed. What info do you specifically need since he is the one who did my conversion almost the same way.

betelnut

That's probably the easy way to do it. Be careful running it past the exhaust pipe. I didn't realize until I really got in there and investigated that that 'maze' of hoses and wires on the right-hand side of the engine is actually tied to the wheel well skirt in several places, and there is in fact a proper routing for everything that goes past there.

When I did my swap I had a donor vehicle, and transplanting the lines was actually very easy. It looks great since the clutch line matches the brake lines. Since the Limited model has 4-wheel ABS, mine might've even been a tad bit more difficult, but insignificantly so. If you want to make it look factory, you should also transplant the bracket on the upper-right side of the firewall, the bracket on the right cylinder head, the soft hose between those brackets and the retainer clips, and the hard pipe going down. The firewall bracket requires threaded holes on the firewall; that may be the hardest part to figure out since the other side is blind. Maybe threaded pop rivets, if they make them that big.

I was also going for a factory-like wiring job, where the wires for the clutch switches, clutch cancel, etc. were transplanted from the donor, so that the wire colors matched the electrical diagram. The wires were transplanted with pins from where they terminated at their connectors and only cut when they connected to a splice point. For this kind of access to the cowl wire, the dash and the structural member underneath need to be removed. Once I'd gone that far, it was easy to remove the parts of the ventilation system to access the back of the firewall. (And while in there, I replaced all of the decaying foam seals in the ventilation system.)

Another thing to consider doing is to rebuild your engine wiring harness. If your donor has the same engine, you should get the harness and ECU along with the transmission. Any connector housings that are breaking can be replaced with dealer parts, usually around $5 each. The old pins can be reused, so no wire cutting is necessary. Replace burnt heat insulation where the harness passes the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe with heat insulation tape from auto parts stores. And replace any old cracking tape; my preference is self-fusing silicone tape. The engine wire looked like new when I was done, where before the injector connectors were broken and filled with RTV, it was burnt in many places, and just ugly and brittle. (Battery cables can be given the same treatment, nice!)

Good luck.

KelleyC

Found his photo album: Project Wimpy: 1995 4Runner 2wd-Auto to 4wd-5Speed/Etc

His writeup portion's still here: http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20939

He mentioned that he would be posting it all back up soon. When he does I'll link it into this reply.

phildelfino

nothing specifically. i am collecting info, pics and diagrams to do my own R150 swap this year.

Camaro1976

Alright I did the swap and I'm at a loss as to why my 4wd won't work. I have a 94 truck with a 3.0, I had ADD hubs but I plut on locking hubs.
I realize most of this doesn't apply to the 4wd but here is everything I've done:

-Reverse lights wired and working
-Clutch start cancel wired to heavy gauge black/white and black/yellow on main transmission connector
-Black shift lock computer is plugged into truck with main connector, the other two coming out of it aren't used
-Blue shifter plug has the two whites connected, the two green are left alone
-ECT is unplugged
-4wd sensor is working
-It's connected to pins 2&3 on the blue connector under the truck, the green/white wire has continuity to pin 8 on the ECU connector

What am I missing??? I have went over as many threads as I could find and the only thing different was in this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-swap-232732/

He spliced two wires in the smaller grey connector but he has auto hubs. I'm about to go over some wiring harnesses to see if I need anything in this connector at all. Does anyone have any ideas?

Also maybe a slight hijack, but my auto truck had a harness running over the trans and then followed the left frame rail about a foot. At the end is a grey (4-pin I believe) connector that has a factory cap. I know that the donor 91 truck I got the trans from had this connected to something. What is it for?

Thanks

Camaro1976

Figured it out. The wiring harness for a truck that comes stock with manual hubs versus ADD must be different since I've never seen this mentioned.

Pin 6 of the blue connector under the truck is also green/white. Connect the two green/white (pins 2 & 6) to one side of the transfer case switch, and the white/black (pin 3) to the other side of the switch.

Few things I learned doing the swap:

I got the main clutch line from a donor truck and it was really easy to route on the firewall, not sure why people seem to have issues with it... I didn't have the soft line or brackets so I got creative and picked up a rubber brake hose for a 94 pickup and a 20" hardline. After I bent the line it and the hose ended up being the perfect length to get down to the slave cylinder.

Unbolt the starter from the bellhousing but don't disconnect the wires. You can leave it hanging in the frame rail. You can also leave the torque converter on the flex plate instead of taking it off with the trans. If you do it this way you can also leave on the two brackets on the lower half of the bellhousing. This was way easier than removing everything else.

I got grade 10.9 bolts from O'reillys for the flywheel. Easier than ordering any.

The transmission mount on the crossmember is different between the two. So is the front driveshaft cover.

I have never seen anyone mention the driveshaft for the trucks. In the case of my extended cab the only difference is the center carrier shaft (not sure of exact name). I couldn't even find one online to buy. I didn't have time to wait for a custom shaft so I machined a 2.25" spacer with threaded holes on one side, and studs on the other. Worked perfectly.

My transmission was from a 91 so I wrongly assumed I could swap the speed sensor from my automatic. I bought a sensor for a 94 with a manual and then again wrongly assumed I could swap in the shaft and gear. Both of the other shafts were too long but you can cut it down and then cut a slot in the end. Works great but did take work.

MrSUT

Thanks 4sknrnnr for the awesome write up. Went to your link and downloaded the pdf. What great pictures and documentation!!!! I am looking forward to yanking my A340H and replace with 5 speed due to this excellent article. It's guys like you that help us all out. A much appreciated fellow yota guy.

Ugly4Runner

Just found a donor truck to swap a 5speed into my 1990 4runner. I figured I had the skills but this is wonderful info! Gives me much more confidence that I can do it correctly. Thanks!

90yota88

if you swapped the manual ecm would you still need to do all the wiring

Punchy

Yes, There is still some wiring work, The auto and manual harness and conectors are different (Color codes as well), The speedo wire is the same.

You have to Mod the auto harness so that the Neutral/Park wiring is shorted (The 2 heavy gauge wires (blach and black yellow)) (watch out because there is no clutch start switch).
The Backup lights wiring are also on the same connector and need be cut and roughted to the manual backup switch.

The 4WD wires are on another harness that goes over the top of the Auto trans, Cut and rought to transfercase.

I tested a Manual ECU in my auto before My swap, Ran fine but the trans was crippled without the ECM (no second gear (And which also runs the transfercase on the 340H))

Camaro1976

The wiring really isn't that hard at all. And you can keep the clutch start cancel if you wire the black and black/yellow to the switch

yotajedi

Ok I found the OP's write-up on another site. It was the one of the best I have ever seen. I saved the thing to my computer. Well you guessed it, the computer crashed. Does anyone have this link I am very near to being forced to do the change. Thanks.

P.s I can't seem to find the link no matter how hard I try. It had pics as well as a complete list of everything needed.

yotajedi

I found it by doing a word search. I used roommate and a few other words I remembered lol. Here is the link.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...Y5ZGFjZmNjZTFm

johnwa

I'm in the process of doing a swap on a 93 4runner and ran into the following problem. The hub on my flywheel is about 0.85" thick. The standard flywheel bolts are about 1" so are too short. I havent been able to source longer bolts. Anyone run into a similar problem?

Solutions????

willvill1982

Cant wait to swap out my auto to manual. I was at the junkyard 3 days ago and saw a toyota with the brake and clutch pedal assembly complete and intact. Im goin back tomorrow to see if its still there.

YotaChick86

05-14-2014 04:23 AM by YotaChick86
I am doing an engine and tranny swap (also swapping computers) with an 86 22re 2.4 4runner manual that was wrecked, but the engine and tranny are good and an 89 22re 2.4 4runner automatic that has a good solid body. After removing everything from both vehicles and cleaning up and replacing parts I have run into an oxygen sensor problem!
86 engine has a 1 wire oxygen sensor on the exhaust manifold
the 89 had a 4 wire oxygen sensor on the exhaust under the drivers side.
Can I use 89 oxygen sensor on the exhaust since the hook up is there or do I need to rewrite the whole thing to do the single wire from the exhaust manifold?! Does it make that big of a difference?

tonetone

subbed, lots of great info, thanks for the write up

gbo51

does anyone know what might be a standard labor charge for this swap?? auto to manual in a 96 pickup??

Kevslatvin

Not to sound like a smart-a&$ but I'm going to say a lot. If someone who has done the swap could get you an estimate of total hours you could multiply that by say $75 which is dealer shop rate so prob alittle high. This should get you in the ballpark of worst case for cost. I'd guess maybe $1500 in labor at minimum. I'm about to start my swap. I'll try to keep track of time but I work slow so probably not a good time estimate.

julius415

hey so I'm doing a swap, including engine. I had automatic, and the new manual engine has different connectors. it has 5, 3 go to ecu and the other 2 to connectors right next to it. my problem is that those two connectors from new engine don't fit the harness on truck side. switching the connectors out is no problem, I'm just not sure which wire go were, can get any help?