Auto to Manual 5sp swap - Complete!
02-16-2010, 12:25 AM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Altos, CA (Flagstaff, AZ for college)
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
awesome writeup. I'm in the process of swapping mine out right now. We ran into a problem when we realized that the flywheel bolts between the driveplate (automatic flywheel) and the flywheel are not the same. I'll be calling Toyota tomorrow and hopefully get lucky and have the swap done by the end of the week. Still not totally sure about how to trick the ECU into neutral because I can't find the C11 connector. I think I'll be able to jump pins 4 and 7 on my P1 connector. (this is off a 94 4runner) Just so everyone knows, the wiring is different between years so make sure you get the correct year. Once again, great job on the writeup.
02-17-2010, 05:38 AM
#26
Registered User
This is great, I'm reading through it now. I have a 95 4Runner and an 88 pickup for a donor. I'll be doing the swap sometime in the near future. This will really help me out.
02-18-2010, 10:42 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Altos, CA (Flagstaff, AZ for college)
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Finished my swap and everything seems to be running properly. A few things to consider that I ran into:
1) make sure you have flywheel bolts because the flexplate bolts (the "flywheel" that the torque converter bolts to) are too short.
2) the torque specs for the flywheel are 65 ft-lbs (check out this thread for all the torque specs on the 3vze: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-specs-191652/
3)I've not notice that no one has really said explicitly what to do about the wiring required for the swap. I only had to wire 2 pairs of connector besides pulling out the O/D bulb so it wouldn't flash. Both of the pairs of connectors can be found on the shift lever or connector P1 in the FSM.
- 1) Tap into the automatics shift lever connector (P!) and plug the manual tranny's reverse switch into the 2 pins that turn the reverse lights on. Look in the FSM in the electrical section for the automatic transmission section. In my case(94 4runner), I had to plug them into pins 4 & 8 on connector P1.
- 2) for the most important wiring, the wiring to trick the ECU into thinking that it's always in neutral, look at the engine starting wiring diagram in the FSM. You're looking for the "Park/Neutral Position Switch." In my case I had to wire pins 5 and 6 on connector P1.
4) One thing that I had a question about and never found the answer to, was how to make sure you can get your keys out when the ECU thinks the transmission is in neutral. When I had the automatic, I was only able to take my keys out of the ignition when the transmission was in the Park postion. Don't worry about figuring the wiring for this out because as soon as the automatic was disconnected, I was able to get my keys out.
5) Make sure that you make a template to make sure you record where each of the bellhousing bolts go. I did this by tracing the bellhousing and marking where the bolts go.
6) here's another thread that I found useful: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ect-wimpy.html
All together the swap took 12 hrs or so. 5 hrs to take the automatic out along with it's accessories, and 7 hrs to put the manual in. Make sure to have the pedals, clutch master cylinder, and clutch line ready to go before hand.
Hopefully someone finds these tips useful. And if anyone is wondering, this is the best mod I have ever done. It's surprising to see the 3.slow be responsive, torquey, and able to cruise at highway speeds. Don't know why they ever matched the 3vze with an automatic in the first place...
1) make sure you have flywheel bolts because the flexplate bolts (the "flywheel" that the torque converter bolts to) are too short.
2) the torque specs for the flywheel are 65 ft-lbs (check out this thread for all the torque specs on the 3vze: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-specs-191652/
3)I've not notice that no one has really said explicitly what to do about the wiring required for the swap. I only had to wire 2 pairs of connector besides pulling out the O/D bulb so it wouldn't flash. Both of the pairs of connectors can be found on the shift lever or connector P1 in the FSM.
- 1) Tap into the automatics shift lever connector (P!) and plug the manual tranny's reverse switch into the 2 pins that turn the reverse lights on. Look in the FSM in the electrical section for the automatic transmission section. In my case(94 4runner), I had to plug them into pins 4 & 8 on connector P1.
- 2) for the most important wiring, the wiring to trick the ECU into thinking that it's always in neutral, look at the engine starting wiring diagram in the FSM. You're looking for the "Park/Neutral Position Switch." In my case I had to wire pins 5 and 6 on connector P1.
4) One thing that I had a question about and never found the answer to, was how to make sure you can get your keys out when the ECU thinks the transmission is in neutral. When I had the automatic, I was only able to take my keys out of the ignition when the transmission was in the Park postion. Don't worry about figuring the wiring for this out because as soon as the automatic was disconnected, I was able to get my keys out.
5) Make sure that you make a template to make sure you record where each of the bellhousing bolts go. I did this by tracing the bellhousing and marking where the bolts go.
6) here's another thread that I found useful: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ect-wimpy.html
All together the swap took 12 hrs or so. 5 hrs to take the automatic out along with it's accessories, and 7 hrs to put the manual in. Make sure to have the pedals, clutch master cylinder, and clutch line ready to go before hand.
Hopefully someone finds these tips useful. And if anyone is wondering, this is the best mod I have ever done. It's surprising to see the 3.slow be responsive, torquey, and able to cruise at highway speeds. Don't know why they ever matched the 3vze with an automatic in the first place...
Last edited by Tdubbs05; 03-30-2010 at 10:55 PM.
02-19-2010, 11:54 PM
#28
tim: this is all the information i have been searching for. I thought I was going to just have to figure it out. I'm glad you did yours first! I just got ownership of my donor truck and ill be doing my swap on sunday. glad you posted this! thanks ahead of time!
02-20-2010, 04:14 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-23-2010, 10:23 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Altos, CA (Flagstaff, AZ for college)
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Just got the cruise control working. I had to clip 1 wire which was the park/neutral position switch on the cruise control computer. If you look at the wiring diagram (this is for a motor type cruise control), pin #2 on connector C21 is the one that tells the cc computer that the transmission is in park or neutral and therefore will not allow the cruise control to be set. If anyone is wondering, the cruise control computer is on the driver side kick panel. It is has a green connector. Once again, make sure you check the wiring diagram specific to your year as the pins/wire color may change between years. When you clip the wire that goes into pin #2, the cc computer thinks it's in gear and allows for the speed to be set. Now I can finally make use of the cruise control without having to maintain the pedal like I did with the automatic. This swap has been awesome... Once again feel free to shoot me a pm if you have any questions.
02-24-2010, 09:12 PM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
re: http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...ml#post4699691
It's cool to see someone using that posting for their conversion. He did a great writeup on the whole build while including some great tips and lives not too far from where you're originally from.
It's cool to see someone using that posting for their conversion. He did a great writeup on the whole build while including some great tips and lives not too far from where you're originally from.
Last edited by KelleyC; 02-24-2010 at 09:14 PM.
02-24-2010, 09:25 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, glad to help I guess..I like those writeups NorCalBorn does more and more simply b/c he makes it all so simple and it's out there for people still to use versus when you look at the old posts that people have done this stuff on and the info is either unclear, or they refer to pics (that are almost always expired or bad linked) you can read his stuff, and understand it all so easily. Then the pics just make it that much easier.
*Corey should really think of getting in contact w/ him and asking permission to copy over the info and pics and add it all into the FAQ's and database, just so those tech pics are there for posterity's sake?
*Corey should really think of getting in contact w/ him and asking permission to copy over the info and pics and add it all into the FAQ's and database, just so those tech pics are there for posterity's sake?
04-17-2010, 10:32 AM
#35
For anyone else who searches on this topic...
I found it to be MUCH easier to use 5 feet of steel braided hyrdaulic line with a 90 degree bend off the master cylinder instead of the hard and soft lines. Just feed it through the maze of vaccum hoses and over the top of the bellhousing rather than hassles pulling hoses and mounting brackets.
In town a place called Speed Frame Manufacturing was able to match the fittings from the master and made the hose for me in about 10 mins.
Total cost $40. (what the wrecking yard wanted for the hard and soft line)
I found it to be MUCH easier to use 5 feet of steel braided hyrdaulic line with a 90 degree bend off the master cylinder instead of the hard and soft lines. Just feed it through the maze of vaccum hoses and over the top of the bellhousing rather than hassles pulling hoses and mounting brackets.
In town a place called Speed Frame Manufacturing was able to match the fittings from the master and made the hose for me in about 10 mins.
Total cost $40. (what the wrecking yard wanted for the hard and soft line)
04-19-2010, 10:34 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reading this thread and the write-up makes me want to do this swap so badly. It's a little beyond me mechanically; I'd be relying on the help of an uncle who is very mechanically inclined. I guess what I am wondering about now, and hoping that maybe someone can advise me on, is how to go about obtaining everything I would need to do the swap. It seems like some folks bought a donor parts truck that provided them with most of what they needed. Was there anyone that bought parts individually from a junkyard and that kind of thing? What would be the estimated cost to obtain everything? How can I be sure the transmission I buy will work in my truck? Is there a range of the years for both runners and trucks that will work for my 95 truck? Thanks in advance.
04-20-2010, 06:47 AM
#39
Registered User
Well the ADD hubs work off a switch. I'm not sure what all you need to do to get them to lockup. But I don't think its all that difficult. I think when I get around to doing mine I'm going to swap to manual hubs.
