4sknrnnr

I've been doing research and collecting parts to swap an R150F in place of my failing A340H in my 1990 4runner 4x4 for a couple months now.

I installed the clutch pedal assy, master cylinder, long hardline, and softline and mounting brackets a couple weekends ago.

My roommate and I started the rest of the swap 6 days ago and test drove it last night.

Much to our surprise, everything appears to be working correctly:
~ 4wd engages correctly(ADD) and the 4wd indicator light works
~ Reverse lights work
~ Cold start injector correctly holds rpms high until engine warms up (had to make it think the auto is in neutral)
~ Clutch start switch works (still need to wire in the clutch start cancel)
~ Only taken 3 trips in it so far but no CE light yet

The O/D off light does flash a trouble code for the missing auto, but since this light is useless with a 5sp I will unplug it.

I have to extend a huge thank you to my roommate for dedicating so much time to this, doing this swap alone would have taken 3 times as long. We had a blast doing this, learned a ton, and the results are very rewarding.

Before diving into this, I created a step by step guide that I will now update with the lessons learned. When I finish, I will post it so others can save time gathering all the necessary information.

In the interim, my roommate posted a bunch of pics on Flickr here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/elliotj...7602261412709/

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Looking forward to the write up.

Kiff

subscribed

Guardian_Saint

Good thing that you got it running, I also have done this but still haven't figure out the reverse light to work, so looking forward for the writeup. Also my 4x4 won't engage at all, when you switch to 4HI does it engage at all, on your? mine will not, seem that you have add not manuel hub? and where do you splice the wire that is coming out from the transfer case to? is it splice to the front wire. I do not know if I have a bad transfer case, but I'll see about it when I get those manuel hub.

Spinnbait

I did the swap as well. Definately the best thing that I have done to it. Can you give me the exact ADD wiring configuration (colors and all)? That has been my only shortcoming. Have fun with the new gas mileage. By the way, it took me three entire days by myself and the tranny fell on me once. I am happy that you had a friend.

Green93

I can't wait to do this. A detailed walkthrough would be awesome.

Kaleb

I too have done this swap. The OD on the auto was really getting annoying. I have the OD light flashing as well, I just need to take the time and remove the bulb...I am just too lazy.

4sknrnnr

OK I hope this helps those of you with wiring troubles.

First go and download the FSM EWD, $10 on the Toyota website is well worth the time it will save you. Also, never look at a Haynes schematic there are mistakes, including the ECU output pins being mislabeled. When you look at the connector pin outs in the FSM EWD make sure you know if you are looking at the truck side of the connector, or the tranny side of the connector. Also, pages 20 ? 23 are really helpful as far as finding the location of the connectors in the truck. And disconnect both the positive and negative terminals of the battery when taking electrical measurements.

As far as making the 4wd work, it does not matter whether you have manual hubs or the permanent lock flange style. Leave the ADD indicator switch (connects on the front of the front differential) alone. The 5sp transfer position indicator switch sits near the top of the transfer case on the passenger side. The switch has 2 leads and is open when the t-case is in 2 wheel drive and closed when its in 4. You need to connect these two leads to pins 2 and 3 of connector I4 shown on page 132-133 of the FSM EWD. This connector is on the passenger side of the tranny near the bellhousing, it?s a 6 pin connector and it was blue on mine. The wire coming from pin 3 should be white with black stripe and from pin 2its pink with a green stripe (unless the DPO messed with it). You can check to see if you have the correct pins by measuring from pin 3 to ground ? should be 0 ohms. Also, measure from pin 2 to pin 8 on connector T2 (dark grey 22 pin connector on ECU, passenger footwell, also page 133) ? this should also be 0 ohms.

Wiring up the reverse lights is also pretty simple. The back up light switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission housing, about midway. This is a 2 lead switch that is open in all forward gears and closed when the shift lever is in the reverse position. You need to connect these two leads to pins 4 and 9 of connector N1 shown on page 68-69 of the FSM EWD. This connector is also on the passenger side of the tranny near the bellhousing, it?s a 9 pin connector and it was beige/translucent color on my truck. The wire coming from pin 4 should be red with a white stripe and from pin 9 should be black with an orange stripe. You can check to see if you have the correct pins by measuring the conductivity from pin 4 to ground ? you should see a resistance of about 1 ohm, this is your reverse lights in parallel. Now walk around the back of the truck and remove the reverse light bulbs and measure again ? should be an open circuit.

I would be hesitant to wire it up based on wire color alone for fear something may have changed in the wiring harness between the years (mine is a 90). The right way to do it is to look at the schematics, figure out where the equivalent switched plugged in from the auto and substitute the ones from the 5 sp. The factory EWD has an incredible amount of info in it and it really the only resource you need.

Also, when I was doing research there was a lot of question about whether you need a new rear driveshaft. In my experience I found the auto was 39.5? long and the manual was 37.5? long. The driveshaft will still fit, but you are only left with 0.75? of spline engagement. I recommend getting a driveshaft from a 5sp.

Now for a question of mine. When I drain the tranny gear oil, 2.5 qts came out. When I filled it, it would only take 2.5 qts before it came out the fill hole (truck was level) The factory FSM says it take 3.2 qts, anyone run into this before?

jjrgr21

my 98 taco only took about 2.5 qts

Guardian_Saint

Ok, so does the wire that goes to the 4x4 for the pin 3, white w/ black strip and pin 2 pink with green stripe goes to the 4x4 T/C? so are they in the same connector or in separately? I found mine was in the separate connector so do you mean that they are in the same connector for pin 2 and 3? Thanks in advance.

4sknrnnr

Let me reiterate that I would never recommend doing ANY wiring based on color alone. There were too many variations between years, models, and what the PO did to make that a good strategy.

Have you performed the suggested continuity checks? Pin 3 should be grounded and pin 2 should go to the "4wd" pin on the computer (as I listed previously this is pin 8 on connector T2 at the computer) Both pin 2 and pin 3 that I mention are in connector I4 (pages 132-133 of FSM EWD)

You really need the FSM EWD. Its $10 online to download as many FSM?s as you want. This is not a place to be needlessly cheap, it will save you many hours of guess work.

Outside of wiring problems, there are several other factors that could stop the 4wd from engaging. Did it work before you started the swap? You would have had to remove many vacuum lines to install the clutch softline, are you sure you reinstalled all the vacuum lines to the VSV correctly? (it's in the engine bay on the passenger fender) Electrically you can simulate the tcase being in 4wd by shorting pins 2 and 3, does the ADD work correctly when you do this?

Guardian_Saint

The 4x4 was running fine before the swap. Today I check to see if my front drive shaft will spin if I engage 4WD High and it did but the add is not locking the front wheel, but it will run in 4WD in Low in all wheels. Ok I see the I4 plug you are talking about, I tought it was between the bell housing, so I haven't connect anything to it yet but this should be it. Tomorrow I will see if I can get this 4x4 to work as it been awhile w/o 4x4. I also got the reverse light working, what a snap it is... Thanks alot man, you and your friend should write a good writup on this one, ASAP.

n4ynu1010

...And remember, keep a parts catalog handy, if something wont come off or out, check the price, and then wack it with a hammer, the relpacement price will let you know how hard to hit it.

Nice Sig hehe

4sknrnnr

Glad to hear you got the reverse lights working. Let us know if you get the 4 wheel drive to work after trying the "new" connector.

This weekend I finished up the rest of the electrical work. As far as I can tell, the electrical now works like it came from the factory.
~ Wired in the clutch start cancel switch
~ Removed the O/D light bulb from the combination meter so its not flashing in my face anymore - very annoying
~ Wired in the cruise control clutch cancel switch

I also switched out my crossmember for one that hadn't hit some sort of large object (pics of busted crossmember at link in first post) and ordered a longer driveshaft. Once I swap the driveshafts I'll call this project done and work to get the write up posted.

n4ynu1010

Yes , Cool !!

capekdw

I was wondering if u ever did that write up and if so could I get the link for it? I'm in the process of deciding to swap my auto out for a manual since my reverse on my 89 pickup just went out thanks

jimep

somthing simple- to get the overdrive light to stop flashing just jump the 2 wires that go to the OD switch in the auto shifter. the od light will always be on but at least it won't be flashing. that is if u have the newer integrated at/ecu. my 86 turbo auto harness is totaly different than my 91 3.0 auto. In the 86 the light went out when I pulled the ect computer.

lunchindabox

I am tempted...I have a 98 ext cab Prerunner (2wd) automatic 2.7L that would be so much more awesome if it were manual 4x4. I hope to buy a 96 2.7L manual 4x4 standard cab tonight.

I am starting my research and will keep tuned here.

BoostinChick

I looked through the pictures and they are awesome. What about the clutch/gas/brake pedal? Did you just find an assembly or weld?

4sknrnnr

I finally got off my lazy ass and posted the swap guide I promised 2 years ago. You can find it here:

http://sites.google.com/site/wastedf...nsmission-swap