KBar

Ok I hope this is the right place to put this. I recently acquired some ship (Navy) paint from a friend at a undisclosed ship yard. Can I use this paint to paint my 4runner gray. Its a color topping that is used over top of non skid surfaces.

http://www.itwast.com/tech_info/TDS/...DS%2031505.pdf

KBar

someone please help me out

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

CAN you use it? Sure, hell, you can use elementary school finger paint if you want.

Seriously, follow the directions, use the appropriate primer, do all the prep, and use it. The bugger will be if you ever want to get that stuff back off!!!

It seems like a relatively forgiving paint but follow the directions anyway, if you want a decent finish.

KBar

do you think a basic auto primer would work for an acrylic type paint?

michael1963

If you do decide to paint it, take lots of pics, I would be very interested to see how it turns out. But you do realize that you will have to re-paint your truck every 6 months right...that's what the Navy does with everything that is painted battleship-gray!

KBar

Yes you are correct thats what they do with the Haze gray on the outside of the hull, but this is the paint that is used to paint over the non skid texture that is put the flight decks and in the shop areas. Because the nonskid is a generic black. I think with a good clear coat and wax job this gray could turn out decent

rustyf99

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you just run to the nearest Farm and Barn store and pick up some cheap tractor enamel? Throw some gloss hardener in and you know you have a good product. Just curious.

As far as auto primer, I would just try some on a piece of scrap metal, over whatever primer you choose. See how it turns out. Practice is always the key to success anyway.

dicinu

If I am reading it correctly this is like the same stuff people put in the garage floor and is rolled on does not seem like the Ship body paint but an acrylic epoxy paint. will it attach to the vehicle yes but how will it look you are better off going straight primer. you can always tint the primer to the color you would like. I would check with a local paint store as to primers you can use with this paint though. they will have the answer rather than a bunch of maybe it will maybe it won't work. seems like a roll on paint...

KBar

Yes your right I was given a bunch of it and would like to do a paint job like a dark gray primer but I dont want to use primer because its so porous. I just dont want to spend an insane amount of $ on a paint job but I also dont want it to look like crap. I painted an ammo can last night and it came out nice kinda like a gray primer with a decent wax job

dicinu

Okay I now see your goal with this paint...

I understand with the primer but you can also wet sand it and cuts down on the roughness of the primer but still does not give you the shine or the durability of the mil spec paint you have. If it goes on to a Ammo can without issue's then I think you should be good, I would try some on a small part of the vehicle to make sure it will not have a chemical reaction with the current paint on there now.

nothingbetter

as for wanting to clear over it, theres no gaurantee a clear coat will stick to that stuff. Our basecoat has a 6 hour window to be top coated or else the clear won't adhere well. It chemically bonds to the base...sort of "melts" in. I doubt the clear will chemically bond to that stuff you want to use. it will just chip off. You'll have to do more research to see if a clear will stick to that.

dicinu

The paint he has seems more of a single stage that and 2 stage paint so it will not need clear over the pant just the paint it's self..

but you are spot on with the base coat clear coat aka 2 stage paint method.

The Important thing is to make sure the paints will mesh well with each other as you could run into problems if it does not... as in paint bubbling cracking splotches...

bone collector

heres an idea. go to the junkyard and pick up a door or fender and try it on that first. get 3 different doors and try different primers, techniques, and see what one turns out best. and it will save your truck and give you confidence when you paint...

KBar

great idea luckily i have a buddy who is scrapping 2 cars because doors, fenders, hoods, tailgates are about $30-60 a piece here at the junk yards.

On the ammo can it came out good but a bit tacky to the touch I'm thinking its the 'sissippi humidity though so I'm gonna wait til fall or try and use the paint booth at work(military is really hesitant about working on POVs in the maintenance shops) Hows it make you feel that your tax dollars are funding my paint job lol?

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

If you've never used the stuff on a large area then I would stay away from it. I don't know how anal you are but what if you mess up on a section? Will you be able to make it look right. How will you apply this extremely heavy paint? With a brush & roller? How will that look? Does the stuff level out smoth? Is it ment to only go on a flat surface like a concrete floor? When applied to a door, it's solids are so heavy, will it sag and look like s$&!? Now if you had access to an HVLP sprayer (a good one) it may turn out. When I put my base coat down on my Runner I used Sherwin Williams auto paint. You can buy a base coat with the clear in it revelatively cheap from SW auto. Remeber, the better you prep for paint the better the out come. Good luck, bro.

nothingbetter

Nothing personal, this it just so people don't get confused about paint as I've seen it often on this site. What your talking about is a single stage paint. It doesn't contain any clear. Single stage gives hiding, colour, gloss, uv protection and stregnth all on one product. Instead of 2 or more products such as in a base/clear system.

Your right, it is much cheaper than a bc/cc paint. Our single stage is about 1/4 the cost of painting something in bc/cc.

An hvlp guns main advantage is being able to use a lower pressure and have less wasted material and less emissions. it also aids in the application of waterbourne base. Both are very important these days when they're cracking down on voc outputs. Neither of which will effect him applying this paint. For our clear we don't use an hvlp gun, we use a reduced pressure, as we find it lay down better.

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

I completely understand what you are saying about the single stage paint and clear in one. I was just suggesting a cheaper alternative. If it were me I would use an expensive primer, color coat, and minim 3 coats clear. Just depends on the size of the wallet. I'm not telling anyone to do anything a certain way, just getting 2 cents in. No offence though. Its all good. Use the advice as you please. Peace!

KBar

I'm going to use a sprayer, when i painted the ammo can i used an old roller. On the sides of the can it didnt sag or run. but i am gonna paint 3 seperate doors and see how they come out

paintthetown

iTrader: (1)

Your going to have to thin it down before you spray. Do light coats. Good luck.