hunter4runner

I think I might be the first, but today I finished the head gasket job on my 3vze and I used ARP head studs. Anybody else do this yet?

shaeff

No idea, I'm not a v6 guy, however ARP makes excellent hardware, and you'll get more even clamping pressure when using studs vs bolts. Good choice.

Chuckar

Where did you buy the studs at I have been looking ?

n2o302

Keep me updated! The only info I was told was that headstuds would interfere with the waterjackets but I'm not so sure about that info.

MudHippy

Soooo...

How much did they cost?

Where did you get them?

How many ft-lbs did you torque them to?

Did you use any threadlocker?

And

bone collector

x2 ^^^^

Chuckar

Bump for info !!!

2big4arunner

I did that job with arp studs a while back. I took a look on the website for arp and matched the thread and pitch and ordered the nuts to match. I used 6 point nuts instead of 12 point. It was pretty easy and if you search it out people have done it before. They even posted the numbers on the threads. It really does help with the gasket issue. It also helps to remove the rear crossover. You will notice a pretty big increase in power when you eliminate that guy and your engine will run better too.

Have fun with your new motor job.

hunter4runner

I order them from…. LCE! Yep LC Engineering, is now carrying them, in a kit form. The "Kit" is the studs, washers, nuts (12point), and the ultra-torque ARP lube! The whole she bang is $$$ 239.95 plus shipping. *CLICKY THE MAGIC BLUE WORDS AND GO TO NEW WEBSITE*.

The kit also in includes instructions on the torque valves, which in this case is a final valve of 80ft/lbs, but like the wise people that LCE are, they suggested step torquing.

I used Fel-Pro perms-torque HG's. (I work for O'Reilly Auto)
The gasket on the drivers side had failed because it was a crappy no name gasket, the passenger was a Fel-Pro PT and was in near perfect shape.

On the issue of thread locker, Yes the studs are blue locked into the motor. I did not lock the nuts to the studs.

TNRabbit

By my calculations, the 3VZE should be more along the lines of 105 ft/lbs of torque....?

shaeff

Is that with the factory head bolts being installed dry? With ARP's lube, (or any lube for that matter) your torque value will be lower because you don't have to overcome as much friction on the threads. And in the case of head studs, you're not overcoming the friction of the block against the bolt head either, since only the nut is torqued against a washer.

Pat8942

This is from the FSM

MudHippy

$240!? That's insane...literally. I would never waste that kind of money when the stock head bolts work just fine in mine(went 218,000 miles before the first head gasket blew).

AND...

They lie. The stock head bolts are TTT(Torque Turn to Tighten) not TTY(Torque To Yield).
I tightened the last 90° on a couple of mine with a torque wrench, and was getting ~115 ft-lbs...IIRC.

EDIT: Factory head bolts lubed with engine oil, as per the FSM. For the record...
Yeah...see post 11. Studs and bolts don't torque the same.

hunter4runner

See I don't feel bad at 240$ at all, ARP head studs for like a 6.0 ford Diesel (also known for HG issues) are like 650$ and its only 8 bolts a head so 240 is not bad for what you get.

n2o302

So how has this worked out so far hunter?

hunter4runner

Great I've had to fool with some stuff to get the idle and timing right; had the distributor a tooth off. But it's been running great.
Bear in mind this was done outside in the rain snow and cold, and everything was Torqued with a harbor freight 1/2 drive torque wrench.

stefanc

Apologize for resurrecting an old thread again, but I was wondering how the studs are doing? No issues @hunter4runner?

hunter4runner

its been several years now and no issues. I've even overheated the motor several times and towed some heavy stuff. Absolutely zero issues, no movement on the nuts on the studs either a checked their torque a few months back and zero shift. This is absolutely the way to go!

stefanc

That's great to hear.

-->I see you used the Fel-Pro set. I plan on purchasing the OEM valve grind kit 04112-65018 which is supposed to have everything you would need. Any opinions on that?
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...112-65018.html

--> Did you use the FSM torquing pattern and values on when you put the heads on?
(The studs come with the following instructions http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInstr...Stud%20Kit.pdf)

--> One last questions, could you shed some light as to some possible reasons for the overheating?


Thank you for all your help!