ARB IPF H4 Rectangular Headlight Insert (820H)
12-08-2010, 02:12 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
ARB IPF H4 Rectangular Headlight Insert (820H)
I was browsing around and seen these headlights for sale. I think they will fit my 93 Toyota pickup. Anybody know for sure? Would they be a better option than the Hella E-Codes?
http://store.arbusa.com/IPF-H4-Recta...20H-P3634.aspx
http://store.arbusa.com/IPF-H4-Recta...20H-P3634.aspx
12-08-2010, 07:02 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Yeah they both look pretty good and the price is pretty much the same. The good thing I noticed about the ARB is the 2 year warranty against defects
12-09-2010, 08:35 AM
#7
I've had the IPF rectangular H4 replacement headlights for at least five or six years now. NO problems, still original bulbs. I like'em 'cause the high beam seems wider than the laser-narrow Hella E-code high beams (7" round) I had on my FJ60. Low beams are similar...nice, white light. I am totally satisfied.
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12-09-2010, 01:40 PM
#8
Registered User
When you put them in, do a proper rewire with some 10 or 12awg wire and a couple relays, using a diode on the high beam relay to trip the low beam relay so you get highs and lows on at the same time.
The difference in light output from the rewire alone will make you change your drawers. Add in the "quad" beams and you'll wonder how you ever saw anything before.
The difference in light output from the rewire alone will make you change your drawers. Add in the "quad" beams and you'll wonder how you ever saw anything before.
12-09-2010, 05:30 PM
#9
Registered User
What kind of lifespan are you getting out of bulbs when you run both filaments simultaneously? I would be concerned about the amount of heat you'd be generating.
12-09-2010, 06:10 PM
#10
Registered User
Two years so far and no problems. I'm not sure how this applies to running both filaments simultaneously, but contrary to popular belief, a halogen bulb will last longer when running higher current to some degree.
www.danielsternlighting.com
www.danielsternlighting.com
Originally Posted by Daniel Stern
In many cases, the thin factory wires are inadequate even for the stock headlamp equipment. Headlamp bulb light output is severely compromised with decreased voltage. The drop in light output is not linear, it is exponential with the power 3.4. For example, let's consider a 9006 low beam bulb rated 1000 lumens at 12.8 Volts and plug in different voltages:
10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens
The Europeans take a slightly more realistic with their voltage ratings; they consider output at 13.2v to be "100%". The loss curve is the same, though. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.54v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (11.88v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.22v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt.
10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens
The Europeans take a slightly more realistic with their voltage ratings; they consider output at 13.2v to be "100%". The loss curve is the same, though. When operating voltage drops to 95 percent (12.54v), headlamp bulbs produce only 83 percent of their rated light output. When voltage drops to 90 percent (11.88v), bulb output is only 67 percent of what it should be. And when voltage drops to 85 percent (11.22v), bulb output is a paltry 53 percent of normal! It is much more common than you might think for factory headlamp wiring/switch setups to produce this kind of voltage drop, especially once they're no longer brand new and the connections have accumulated some corrosion and dirt.
03-20-2011, 12:17 AM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Tan Valley AZ
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'93 Headlight replacement
Apologize for "jacking" this thread. '93 4Runner V6 4WD, 190K mi. Wow! Love this site. Has helped me do stuff I would never attempt w/o everyone's help. Thanks to everyone's contribution. Love the snarky banter! Need new headlights but I'm a cheap bastard. Any suggestions?
Semper Fi
MAC
Semper Fi
MAC
Last edited by MacDaddy; 03-20-2011 at 12:19 AM.
03-20-2011, 08:31 AM
#16
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03-20-2011, 08:52 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah HIDs in halogen housing isnt good at all. The halogen housing doesnt have a cutoff point that HID's need so your light is scattered all over the place. Im sure youve had oncoming cars flash there high beams at you.
If your gonna go with HID's do it right and retrofit
If your gonna go with HID's do it right and retrofit
03-20-2011, 09:30 AM
#18
Registered User
Basically, if you're running HIDs and don't have a cutoff like this: (note, these pics are just ONE TFX projector during mock-up)
then you have no business running HIDs. (Pics above from the TFX retrofit I did on my e36 M3. TFX = Acura TSX clear lenses, FX35 bixenon HID projectors.)
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