RiNkY

Ok - Now I'm getting really frustrated with this job! lol.

Here's what I have done so far.

- Removed all of the Bolts & Pressed out all the studs on the Diff side.
- Disconnected the Upper Ball Joint (4 bolts on top)
- Disconnected the Sway Bar
- Disconnected the lower shock connection

I still can't seem to get enough clearance for the axle to slide out. I'm about 1" from clearing where the axle mounts on the diff side and no amount of twisting / levering / prying will get the damn thing clear to slide out.

View from up top. Just won't budge much further down than this to clear.


View from underneath. The greese seal came off exposing the greese, so things are nice & messy.


Jack Stand / Jack.
The Jack Stand is supporting the weight. There is a gap between the Jack & Lower A-Arm that you cannot see in this pic, so it's at full droop.



Hope someone has some ideas. Because I'm stumped right now, short of disconnecting the track rods etc.

Hortence 95

If I were you I would disconnect the lower ball joint. If you do this, be aware that putting it back can be tricky - I had to raise the upper arm with a long pry bar to get the hub assembly to plop back where it goes. I did this when I replaced the joint.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yeah man, unbolt the lower ball joint. That should do it!

MudHippy

If you were to lift with jack and remove the jack stand the suspension will compress some. Probably just enough. I use the cast part just behind the ball joint nut to jack from all the time, it would be the best to get the most uptravel you need there.

ovrrdrive

I undid an upper ball joint once with the tie rods disconnected too and actually extended a CV so far I ruined it. The entire assemble will fall off into your lap if you pull the tie rods...

I'm surprised that with the studs out you can't jimmie the suspension in to a place that will drop out...

isaac338

I pulled my CV without unbolting any balljoints. You have to raise the suspension to bring the axle more into line, and it's a bit of a squeeze, but it -is- possible.

RiNkY

Given up for today - to damn hot in the non-AC'd garage. 112 degrees outside right now. Will give it another try tomorrow.

Need to go buy some hardware to replace the studs with now I've pressed them out, should make life a little easier next time. Can't believe people do this on the trail, maybe once I manage it I'll figure out the nack and have it down for when I destroy one on the trail - which I have every intention of trying to avoid.

mehret

I didn't take any ball joints off either when I replaced mine. If i remember correctly (it's been awhile), I took the spindle off to clear the axle. I also didn't have to support the suspension like you are, as I did it on a lift at work.

leebee

the lower ball joint is the key, it allows enough droop for the inner joint to clear the flange at the diff. you will have to rotate the diff flange as you are gently pulling the cv inner joint down. kind of hard to explain but once you do it, the next time is much easier.

lee

RiNkY

THanks guys. Will drop the lower ball joint tomorrow AM and give that a try.

Reldnew

It looks like its 97% there...can't you just tap it with a hammer the rest of the way out?
I've done a bunch and never had a problem after tapping the studs out with a brass bar on the diff side.

RiNkY

The lower A-Arm is preventing any more downward movement - just won't move down any further, even when using a pry bar on the sucker. Will be heading out there again shortly before the F1 race is on.

AxleIke

Compress the suspension...When i changed out one of mine for boot issues, i don't even take the tire off. I have the studs replaced with grade 8 bolts. Pop the hub off, pop out the bolts, down and out.

navyredneck

Here's my writeup from the first time I did a CV axle:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...se-help-94957/

I'm currently replacing the other side at the moment (3rd CV axle in 9 months which explains why I bought a 1985). I'll respond again later but I think the key was pounding out 2 studs which you've done and then removing the upper bumpstop which allows the A-arms to lower just enough to allow you to pull the axle out. Can't remember if you need to detach the swaybar but I think you shouldn't have to.

I'm gonna go out and try the same and will let you know if it works for me (again).

MudHippy

I know it sounds crazy, but if you raise the lower control arm in relation to the frame (compress the suspension) it will tilt the cv DOWN on the end you need to have move down and past the axle stub. Having the suspension at full droop makes the cv as crooked as possible, it's easier to pull it out when it's more straight. Less "snaking" it out, and more of a straight pull.

It will be "aimed" more in the direction it needs to go if you push the wheel end up is what I'm tryin' to say, really.

I've never had that hard a time with mine, I don't even remove the axle studs or the grease cap.

Bigblock

I've never had that much trouble getting them out,don't know exactly why.I've even took em out with the studs in it!Year to year diffs maybe.Anyway I agree with raising the spindle to level up the shaft.I dont remember even jacking mine up.

tc

Yep - you need to compress the front suspension as much as possible. I find that putting a jackstand under the opposite rear corner of the frame helps keep the rear from compressing and gives the little extra oomph you need to compress the front instead of it lifting the truck.

drew303

Just curious... Why are you removing it? It looks intact in the photos.

RiNkY

Photos don't do them justice. The Boot on the Wheel side is in 2 parts on both axles. Totally torn in half and looks to have been that way for quite a few thousand miles, driven around by the previous owner who was oblivious to it. So rather than risk just putting new boots on, I decided to replace the whole assembly. Plus I managed to get the new axles for $69.99 each from Autozone's site with Free Shipping and No Core charge. So I can rebuild the ones that come off as spares.

Blackulua

I was about the same situation with the picture of the inner axle clearing the inner diff housing.I removed mine differently by loosening the whole diff with a jack underneath it.I jacked up the diff and angled it it out of the axles way out.I then had more than enough room to remove the axle easily.It wasnt as easy as I thought it would be but I had to change mine.