mmcpeck

Just picked up a '92 Pickup, Xtra Cab, 3ZVE, 5spd, with only 96K on it, body and frame in near perfect condition. The rear diff is rusted to hell and so are the rear drums.

The driver front caliper is pretty damn rusty too, but the pass side caliper looks fine, probably been replaced before.

Anyway, I noticed a hard pull to the left when braking, so I figure the pass side caliper wasn't sliding for some reason, but then realized that these calipers don't really slide, since they have 4 pistons in them.

Anyway when I pulled the wheels off I see that 3 of the 4 pads have about 50% pad left. Driver side both pads are fine. Pass side is a different story, the outside pad is fine, about 50% left, the inside pad is gone on top, down to the metal and the bottom is like 100%.

The bottom inside piston on the pass side is siezed in it's bore, it's maybe 15% out of the bore, so the pad is kanked to the side and the top piston is all the way out and the pad is gone on top.

I pulled the pad out and tried to squeeze the bottom piston back in and it will not move for anything, and this is the caliper that looks like it has been replaced before.

My brake fluid is relatively clean, could use a flush, but it's not rusty or burned up or anything.

So my question is, is there any way to get the piston unseized, do I need to pull the caliper apart and try to get this one piston out and clean it and it's bore up, or is it just better to replace the whole caliper?

I am also gonna need two new rotors. The inside of the pass side rotor is so rusty and pitted from not having a pad touch it in who knows how long, and the driver side is warped and shot from doing all the braking for so long.

So on top of my caliper/piston question, I will need somebody to help me out with the procedure for pulling apart the manual hubs so I can take my rotors off. The Haynes manual sucks.

I have pulled apart the ADD hubs before, but never the manual hubs, so I don't know what all is involved.

Sorry for the long post, just figured I'd give all the info.

Thanks.

eric-the-red

You can get a caliper rebuild kit and try taking it apart. The kit comes with new seals and you'll probably need to replace at least that one piston. But if it's as bad as you say you're probably better just buying a pair of rebuilt calipers.

You don't need to pull apart the hubs, just remove them whole.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186138

Lumpy

Not sure about the caliper may need to just replace it. Try PB Blaster let it sit for a few days spraying every now and again. Then use a "C" clamp to get it back together. May work may not.

For the hubs do a search her and I'm sure you'll find something. Here is a link to get you going. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-157649/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ry-day-156896/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ild-up-158644/

.

PCE91V64x4

Put a brake pad in the caliper and use a big c-clamp to compress both pistons at the same time.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Replace it.

tim a.

HEAT and pliers.Problem will be finding a new piston...

mmcpeck

Yeah I am pretty sure I will just replace the whole caliper, not worth it to pull it apart, plus it is really seized in there, not even sure I could even get the piston out.

So if all I am doing is replacing rotors and not the hubs, I don't need to take the bearing races out of the hubs right? Just have to drop the bearings out and then just have to unbolt the old rotors from the hubs and rebolt the new rotors onto the hubs, right? And also replace the grease seal in the back of the rotor?

OutlawMike

That is exactly correct. The races stay in the hub. The outboard bearing will come out when you get the manual hub and the lock nuts off. You will need a 54 mm socket to get those nuts off. The inboard bearing is trapped behind the grease seal, you will need a new one of those. That bolts that hold the rotor to the hub can be a pain to loosen without impact tools.

The toughest part on the manual hubs are the cone washers, until you figure them out. Mine popped right out when I tapped on the stud with a brass drift, but others have had a bear of a time getting them out.

My opinion, replace the rotor. Since the piston is stuck way down inside the bore of the caliper, that means there is significant rust outboard of the piston, as moisture got in there somehow. The bore of that caliper is most likely pitted all to hell and will not hold a good seal even if you get it apart.

Good luck.

mmcpeck

Thanks Mike, I was thinking the same thing about the piston bore. I figured it would be rusted to hell, even if I could get the piston out.

I have dealt with the cone washers before on my '91 Runner, with ADD. They didn't give me a problem when I took that apart once or twice, but who knows with this pickup, I'm sure I'll have a fight with some of them.

I don't remember what I used to pop them loose on the Runner, but it seems like a lot of guys use brass punches. I don't have a brass punch, but I guess I'll pick one up, if I can find one anywhere.

I have the 54mm socket for the lock nuts and I also have a compressor and air tools, so the impact gun should make short work of the bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Do those bolts ever break by any chance? I see a lot of rust on these things, so I'm gonna give those bolts a good soak with PB, and maybe use a little heat and shoot it with PB to suck it in the threads as it cools.

Thanks for the help and tips.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have used a spray lube but never needed heat to get those bolts out .

I have also pulled the hubs off and on without doing the seals unless they leaked before a personal thing But if the inner bearing is replaced thats different .

Rotors Calipers and new pads you should be good to go.

Cone washers i never seize going back in. to get them out I find the best is a Air hammer with a a 3/8ths or so bit with a flat end it vibrates them right out.

Matt16

....x2

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

X2 replace. Like you said its rusted to hell. Didn't read rest of post, so if i missed something, oh well.

mmcpeck

Wyoming9....Actually that's a good point, if all I'm doing is popping the rotors off and new ones onto the hub, there is no reason for me to take the rear bearing out of the hub. I will just have to take the front bearing out obviously and then unbolt the rotor, right?

Has anybody ever broken those bolts off in the hub, the rotor to hub bolts?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I've broken them off before on a mazda nothing that can't be pressed out and in. To easy.

92_pickup_22re

have you priced up calipers for it?? i think a new caliper is like $20 i have to replace one on my 93 4runner!! that was after core charge!! so in all honesty i think it would be just as easy to replace it!! about the hubs i donno i had automatic hubs in the runner donno about manual hubs

mmcpeck

$20?? When I priced it out it was $63, $25 core charge, but I don't count the core charge.

I am thinking about just replacing both of them and starting fresh with new calipers and rotors, that way I know everything is new. The driver side caliper is so rusty that I would guess it's original and been on there for 17 years. Also I can see going to bleed after doing the pass side caliper and snapping that bleeder off the driver side caliper, it's that rusty.

This truck was in upstate NY for the first 10 years of it's life, at a vacation house, so it wasn't used unless the owner was up there, and I'm sure it saw some road salt in that time. Then for the last 7 years it was basically at the beach in salt air. The guy I bought it from lived in a beach community, about 200ft from the bay and ocean, in Brooklyn, so it's been getting all that salt exposure. And I live about 50 feet from the bay on Long Island, so it's not gonna escape that salt air.

I'm actually surprised that the body and frame aren't rotten. The frame is near perfect and so is the body. Just the rear diff and drums, and apparently the driver caliper, are rusted badly.

Who knows, part of buying used trucks.

92_pickup_22re

yeah my 92 has some much needed work ahead of er!! but the frame is in mint condition!!.. i'm pretty sure it was like $20-$25 here in ns canada for a caliper after the core charge, but i would agree with changing both calipers and rotors then u know it's all brand new!! good luck with your rig!

blue_CA_yota

What store you gettin that price from? I'm just outside of Toronto, Ontario, and I'd love to pay that price.

abecedarian

hard pull to the left and the right caliper works? want to double think everything you've been told up to now?

or maybe just ignore me. I'm tired and didn't realise I'm not reading things right. rust- right, worn, right. /me left.

92_pickup_22re

quality auto in truro nova scotia is where i got my caliper!! it was the cheapest place i could find i think the core charge was like $50 plus the $20 or so, so would be like $70 then when u took your old caliper back you'd get the $50 back so all in all ur paying $20, i'm pretty sure that's what i paid in the spring for one