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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 06-04-2007, 03:46 PM   #1
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Anyone used FREEZE 12 instead of R12?

AC system has a slow leak according to it's old owner that I work with and trust. She advised that she used to top it off with R12 at the beginning of the summer and it would last for 6 months. Has anyone here used Freeze 12, what is the disadvantage of doing so, supposed to be compatible with R12 systems without requiring any type of conversion.

Seems like it might be cheaper and easier for me, rather than screwing around with R12. Certainly don't want to take it in for AC service, trying to do everything on this truck my self if I can.
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Old 06-04-2007, 03:49 PM   #2
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I did, put in Whitey last year, worked well all summer but it leaked out over the winter so I have to start over....
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Old 06-04-2007, 03:50 PM   #3
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R12 Isnt too bad on price if you know where to get it, But Im EPA certified so I can buy it in bulk. Never had any experiance with freeze 12
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Old 06-07-2007, 04:27 PM   #4
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Just priced the 12 at Pep Boys. 38 bucks for the little can. Shorty can you top me off? Mines got bubbles but still cools.
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:00 PM   #5
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Why not just convert it over? Is there any reason not too? They even sell the kit at Walmart.
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:04 PM   #6
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Just priced the 12 at Pep Boys. 38 bucks for the little can. Shorty can you top me off? Mines got bubbles but still cools.
Jim
Is this R12 or Freeze 12 ????

I would like to know that Pep Boys is selling R12.




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Old 06-07-2007, 05:10 PM   #7
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I was wondering that too. It's gotta be the Freeze. R-12 has been license required for a long time.
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Old 06-07-2007, 05:13 PM   #8
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I was wondering that too. It's gotta be the Freeze. R-12 has been license required for a long time.
Yup, that's why I was asking.
It's illegal to sell it otherwise.




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Old 06-07-2007, 08:40 PM   #9
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Google some stuff called ES-12A. It's an R12 direct replacement.
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:50 PM   #10
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allthough many have reported good luck with converting i have personally talked to quite a few people who have said that even though it does cool, and that's better than nothing, it was colder with the r-12. so instead of converting just use the freeze 12 it is a direct replacement and can be put right in with the original remnants of r12 and will cool better than the 134.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:27 AM   #11
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What kind of money does a 134 conversion run?
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:33 AM   #12
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I've seen kits for under $50.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:40 AM   #13
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I was curiosu about this whole subject.

Found this which I presume (by the .gov site) is sort of reliable info
http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrig.../macssubs.html
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:05 AM   #14
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The guy at the counter here in Petersburg said he had the little can's of R12 locked up behind the counter cause people steal em blind. Asked how much he said 38/can. The license issue never came up. Did't see em so dont know if he was blowin smoke or not.
Jim
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:12 AM   #15
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My Kit was like $30. I think its just 2 valves that screw over the low and high compression fittings on the AC. That ☺☺☺☺ blows cold as hell too.
Refill cans are about $12
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:33 AM   #16
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Aren't you supposed to replace the compressor when switching to R134a? As it needs to be compressed more than R12 hence burning out the stock compressor in no time?
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:51 AM   #17
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Not that I'm aware of. They've been selling these kits at Walmart for a good couple years now. I've never personally put one in, but they seem totally basic.
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:02 PM   #18
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if you convert you really need to change the dryer and flush the system. This way it will work right. If you dont it wont blow very cold.
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Old 06-08-2007, 06:07 PM   #19
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To convert to R134, You have to replace the drier, perhaps the expansion valve (it's recommended to do so anyway), flush the system, replace the oil in the compressor with a type that's compatible with R134, replace any hoses with barrier-type hoses, and evacuate/recharge the gas from there. Not too hard to do, but there's a little more to the process than what they tell you at WalMart.

R134 doesn't cool as well as R12 did and it's harder on the compressor because it requires higher head pressures.

The oil issue is the biggest problem. R12 systems used mineral oil. R134 doesn't like it. The result is a dead compressor from poor lubrication.
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Old 06-08-2007, 07:05 PM   #20
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To convert to R134, You have to replace the drier, perhaps the expansion valve (it's recommended to do so anyway), flush the system, replace the oil in the compressor with a type that's compatible with R134, replace any hoses with barrier-type hoses, and evacuate/recharge the gas from there. Not too hard to do, but there's a little more to the process than what they tell you at WalMart.

R134 doesn't cool as well as R12 did and it's harder on the compressor because it requires higher head pressures.

The oil issue is the biggest problem. R12 systems used mineral oil. R134 doesn't like it. The result is a dead compressor from poor lubrication.
Good advice....you must flush it, the oils and the refrigerants ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH EACH OTHER! I had an old system on my Jeep that was leaking at the compressor. I found an R-134 new air conditioner, for $845. I figured a new compressor would run me at least $600 installed and I would still have an R-12 system. I bought the kit, installed it myself, and sold the old A/C on ebay for $450. I think I came out pretty good. The new A/C has stayed full for 2 summers now and cools better than the original system.

It gets HOT here in Texas!
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