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Ok so a little back story, I've had my 95 pu 22re for about 8 years. Up u til a month ago, it hadn't been a daily driver for about 4 years. I had it rebuilt about 28k mi ago, but that's been about 4 years ago also. I got screwed on that because I found out later they did not rebuild it, they just stuck a used motor in there. But that's another story. It leaks and burns oil like crazy now, had since it was 800 mi out of warranty. It's idled terrible for a long time. I can't find no vacuum leaks, I removed and clean the egr valve, it was stuck. I got it freed up still does the same thing. New plugs wires dizzy cap rotary button. It has a bad rattle when you rev it up. I don't have a tach so no idea on the rpms. I thought it was valves, but they were all correct with a feeler guage. Not sure what else it could be. Maybe a spun bearing? It used to run good when driving. Now it seems sluggish until a certain rpm, then it's like it kicks on good. I checked the maf sensor, good. Checked tps, good. All resistance readings were dead on. Cleaned tb out also. Timing was a little off, used a timing light and it's in check now. It idles so rough the engine shakes and my manifold bolts work loose. Any ideas? The cel is on, code is air to fuel ratio lean. But after I drive it and cut it off, it smells like it's running rich? As bad as I hate to, I'm about to the point of taking it to a shop to get fixed.
Last night I was doing a little research. I was watching a video of a rough running truck and noticed this. The spot where that vacuum line is unhooked from that little do hickey on the side of the intake, I don't have that. Mine has a copper plug in it. What is that? Then I got to thinking. When I had it rebuilt, the shop told me my intake was cracked. I got one from a junkyard for them to put on. At the time I wasn't confident enough to do the swap myself. Since then I've done many motor and transmission swaps, rebuilt front ends etc. I also work on small engines on the side. So I'm fairly mechanically inclined. Now I'm tired of fooling it with though😁
What about the timing? Don't forget to jump the connector.
I had a bad head gasket, 5 psi on cylinder 3 it ran very bad. The thing with the screw on it. up's the rpm's when the ac is on or you turn the wheels with power steering.
I don't know about the one coming out of the plenum.
Here ya go . I took a tone of pics before i started taking hoses off.
Looks to me like hose #6 one mine goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. That would totally mess up your timing. ( I think)
You are right. I had to take a look at a different angle. All this time I thought that was on the distributor. I have been doing so much lately, I just got confused.
Sounds like you have a vac leak judging by the cel.
Other areas for a leak, not sure if you have tested these yet but here goes anyway:
Brake booster diaphragm (try capping number 9 on plenum to temporarily disable brake booster)
Bad gasket or loose bolts anywhere along lower intake/upper intake/tb
You could also test a different AFM from pick n pull. if the wiper contacts get dirty the ecu might be getting false signals.
Got a pic of your engine bay? Could just be a vac line hooked up weird. Happened to me, with exactly the same symptoms. For me it was the three on top of the TB.
o2 sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor. Mine did not throw a code and it was the engine coolant temperature sensor. Also do a compression check to make sure none of your valves are bad. Sometimes gunk can build up in the throttle body and cause problems. Also check out your idle screw, if its surging it might be that, little bit of teflon on the threads can fix it.
"Now it seems sluggish until a certain rpm, then it's like it kicks on good." I heard of this problem before..i think it was the o2 sensor.
Last edited by dissturbbed; 11-29-2015 at 01:35 PM.
Thanks so much for the replies. Sorry for not getting back on here to be honest I've been trying so hard chasing gremlins on this truck along with 3 other vehicles I got, and a 4wheeler. Haha. Yes I can take pics of my engine bay. I have checked for vacuum leaks, but only using starting fluid. Haven't checked anything at brake booster. And yes I do realize to start with the basics first, but since I don't have a compression tester handy, it was easier for me read to check on how to check the tps maf etc. I put new plugs wiring dizzy cap rotary button. Checked fuel injectors by pulling the wire off of each one and seen how it acted. I'm mechanically inclined to a point, but I'm almost ready to take it to a shop after I check compression. I also have a bad rattle from the engine at higher rpms, gonna check on that to.
I just put tires brakes and rebuilt the whole front end few months ago so id like to get this booger fixed
What's that suppose to mean? I guess since I didn't post you assume I've not worked on it.
Anyways, a few other problems have come up. I'm leaking oil from every gasket on it now, and have disappearing antifreeze. My timing chain is shot, and I have very little oil pressure. I lost heat the other day. I actually enjoyed finding this problem, all I do at work is trouble shoot control and high voltage circuits, so this was my cup of tea. Most people have simple problems with the blower circuit. I didn't. I found a schematic online and went to town. My resistor pack was good. Relay was good. Put 12vdc on blower, good. Took te dash apart and switch was good. At first the blower only got 10vdc to it in any position. The next day it was only getting 1vdc. Weird right? On the schematic, it shows a white wire from alternator fuse to relay contact. That wire at the fuse had 12v, but it was broke somewhere. I didn't know for sure if the blower relay was the only place that wire went, so I ran a new wire from the battery to another relay, then to blower relay contact, ran a hot wire to a toggle switch and bam. I know have heat. Not the correct way to fix it but it works.
Anywho. I'm not going to go back Thru this 22re. I believe I have multiple problems. Oil pressure has to be main rod or cam bearings, or oil pump. And I have a head gasket leak cuz no water is dripping. I've been contemplating a 4.3 swap and the time has finally come. Got a parts truck on the way so stay tuned.
What's that suppose to mean? I guess since I didn't post you assume I've not worked on it.
Anyways, a few other problems have come up. I'm leaking oil from every gasket on it now, and have disappearing antifreeze. My timing chain is shot, and I have very little oil pressure. I lost heat the other day. I actually enjoyed finding this problem, all I do at work is trouble shoot control and high voltage circuits, so this was my cup of tea. Most people have simple problems with the blower circuit. I didn't. I found a schematic online and went to town. My resistor pack was good. Relay was good. Put 12vdc on blower, good. Took te dash apart and switch was good. At first the blower only got 10vdc to it in any position. The next day it was only getting 1vdc. Weird right? On the schematic, it shows a white wire from alternator fuse to relay contact. That wire at the fuse had 12v, but it was broke somewhere. I didn't know for sure if the blower relay was the only place that wire went, so I ran a new wire from the battery to another relay, then to blower relay contact, ran a hot wire to a toggle switch and bam. I know have heat. Not the correct way to fix it but it works.
Anywho. I'm not going to go back Thru this 22re. I believe I have multiple problems. Oil pressure has to be main rod or cam bearings, or oil pump. And I have a head gasket leak cuz no water is dripping. I've been contemplating a 4.3 swap and the time has finally come. Got a parts truck on the way so stay tuned.
LOL..sorry, I had the same problem and put out soo many post i thought this was mine because i just responded from an email response without fully reading it. I agree with yea, junk the damn thing, Ive ran into soo many unsolvable problems its a joke to keep on going.
Last edited by dissturbbed; 01-31-2016 at 06:12 AM.
No biggie buddy. Been awhile since I got on here. Had a ton goin on. Recently me and my wife bought a farm so I've been super busy gettin everything ready so I can get some cattle this spring. Bought another beater farm truck, 90 long bed 4wd Chevy. Trans was shot an it came with one so got that ready. The 4.3 parts truck fell thru, guy sold it when I was on my way to get it. So I guess it wasn't meant to be. Dug a little into the 22re again. Started having intermittent fuel problems, and about every code possible. Got fed up with it. Bought an 89 2wd 22r parts truck. Just got the swap done in mine, so now I'm carb'd an loving life. Yes I know the 22re EFI is superior, but not so much when you got multiple problems. Donor truck had a new flywheel, clutch, coil etc. 137k original miles one owner and it runs perfect. I still gotta tidy things up, but it's in good shape now. I read somewhere the 2wd clutch isn't as strong as the 4wd? Anybody know this to be true? This clutch is far Stronger than mine, mine was shot. Mainly because I tried to pull the tractor out of a creek with it and pretty much destroyed it.😁
11-26-2015, 07:22 AM
