punks_is_4x4

I removed my rear bumper because the stock was had a big dent in it so I took it all off and now the window won't go down is there a ground or safety feature I'm missing ?

RAD4Runner

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punks_is_4x4

Been doing that I'm now trying to follow the wires from the aftermarket switch that's wired directly to the window motor. here's what's strange to me when I push the button it draws power as all my lights dim so I dunno wiring is new to me I thought that if it was drawing power that maybe a ground is loose or something all the wires that were under the stock bumper I assumed were for the tow package

RAD4Runner

It would be hard for people to help you not knowing how the after-market switch is connected and not knowing what model-year-engine-trim you have.
Where's the switch? Was it used to replace the stock switches and wired properly, or is it connected directly between battery and motor?
Do you know if your wiring is stock?
Did you inspect the flex cable that goes from body to tailgate for broken wires? Remember the colorful plastic you see outside may look good but the metal inside may be broken so not making contact.
Someone butchered your wiring, the wires under the bumper may be connected to your window.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Most issues with wiring I see is where someone added a wires for trailer lights and hard wire them in. I suggest taking it back to the way the factory had it. You can add a plug and play wiring kit that will solve the trailer wiring issues.

No way of telling what you have going on since someone has did their own style of wiring and may have got the tailgate wiring all butchered up.

On my 88 runner build below in my link I have some information on the tailgate and the plug and play harness.

punks_is_4x4

Well I'm excited to get off work and tear in/ figure it out. I had a look last night it is defiantly butchered because I think the whole relay was bad so the guy got rid of the wiper and the key doesn't work on the back and he put a after market switch in the oem spot but I'm not 100% sure that the relay is completely damaged. If I can find an original relay or a refurbished one and maybe original harness for it I'll go back to stock with it because using the key is my favorite part about the rear and it sucks when I have to get into the cab every time to roll it down. I've been researching and watching YouTube videos on them. Did the 2nd gen runners use the same same components as the 1st gens?
The is a 87 sr5 22re

RAD4Runner

There you go! Best way to learn the truck and be sure it's done well.
Make sure you label everything.

Not really. Maybe previous owner just did not know what he was doing and did not bother to troubleshoot properly.

Don't unnecessarily spend money replacing things that may be good. Test the relay first. See link below to understand how it all works.

Good! Link below will work for 1986 to 1988:
Rear Window Control Explained and Test Procedures

Before we proceed, do you u have a digital multi-meter? We'll go from there.

punks_is_4x4

So I followed the wire from the switch it is hooked directly to the motor and the rest of the wires are cut back there I'm gonna test that the connection has power but like I said before when I pushed the button lights will dim and the battery meter drops so I know it's drawing.

Say the connection does have power am I now trouble shooting the motor working ?

punks_is_4x4

So I think the switch is dead now that I tested it but not really sure what specs are on these things but when I push the up button it make the ohm meter go completely blank no digits at all And then let off of the up position and it reappears

punks_is_4x4

Now that I think about it something was left on the switch over night leaving the switch in "up" position would this kill the switch and then is there a possibility that I killed the motor? Even tho the car was off no key in the ignition

RAD4Runner

Good to know that you have a multi-meter!
Hopefully, the relay is actually good, but let's look at your switch and motor first. This way we can at least get it working, even if manually. Then we'll look at the relay, etc.

How many pins does the switch have?
How many positions does it have?
A proper window switch should always return to center (off) position when released.
Pls post pic of switch terminals and motor terminals.

NEED OTHER MEMBERS WHO HAVE EXPERIENCE TESTING THE MOTOR HERE TO CHIME IN. Does motor only have 2 terminal, 1 & 3, and do they simply reverse polarity in order to roll up or down? OR does it take ground through its body and 1 OR 3 needs to turn on in order to bring it up or down?

We'll go from there.

punks_is_4x4

I can get back onto photobucket so this will be easier it won't let me upload any photos says there all too big.
I pulled out the switch it's a 15 amp 5 pin. If I'm correct its double pull double throw. I'm going to pick up the same switch today after work.
All of the rest of the wiring looks like it's there but a few of the plugs have been cut in the rear driver side cargo area.
I did check for the relay it is in there so I'll get to that. Mainly just want the window working while I work on the rest. I think there was two more wires coming from the motor besides the one connected to the switch I'll try and get a pic up after work of the motor and such
Thanks again for your help

RAD4Runner

Photo bucket works really well with Yotatech
Resize them with Microsoft Office app (Pre-2013), MS Paint, of try if you can download FastStone Resizer. Great for batch jobs.

punks_is_4x4

I mainly do this from my phone but photobuckets app is easy to use photos to come soon uploading like 40 pics up to PB right now

punks_is_4x4

Ok here's some pics of the switch the motor and the window assembly turns out he switch is a 6 pin switch

punks_is_4x4

I didn't realize how dirty it is in there any way to clean that easily ? Talking about all the mud inside of the tailgate

punks_is_4x4

So new switch didn't fix it good thing they do returns

punks_is_4x4

K I took out my battery hopped back there used mini jumper cables the motor is dead I believe no sound nothing I can hear a relay when I push a switch so now I need a motor I'm planing on hitting the yards this weekend anyways any other models of toyota I could take a motor from

RAD4Runner

Someone seriously butchered that wiring. The white wire with black stripe is ground for something. Unfortunately I do not have the time to dig into my tailgate to find out.
When you took out the motor, how many pins did it have? Which pins had wires matching schematic?

punks_is_4x4

I haven't taken the motor out I just connected the 2 pin plug to the battery with little jumper cables. My motor had been sounding rough and it took forever to go up I think my best bet to go back to factory would be to find a new assembly that hasn't been hacked up I didn't want to take out the motor because with out it the glass will not stay up