kawasakimoto_7

Yes ive searched, and i cant really find anything close to my problem.

22re 260k, just did cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned the throttle body out. and now it actually runs terrible at idle, runs great when im driving. When i come to a stop light it will idle like it has a vaccum leak of some sort, then it creeps back up to the proper idle. When it idles rough it just really feels like the exhaust shaking underneath me, but obviously its not that. I have checked for vaccum leaks too and replaced some lines that looked cracked. Any ideas on what could cause this?

I find it weird because it runs worse after a tune up than it did before...

Odin

Every time I've encountered a vacuum leak it has raised the idle rpm not lowered it.

If it got worse after you worked on it you did something wrong or installed a bad part.

If you disconnected anything look and make sure it's plugged back in and fully seated.

Check and make sure the spark plug gap is correct.
Inspect each plug and make sure the ceramic isn't cracked.
Make sure the plugs are correctly torqued.

(I purchased aftermarket Denso plugs from CarQuest. They have a screw on cap/terminal and they need to be tight to cut down on the resistance or spark loss. When I purchase new plugs I'm either purchasing OEM Denso plugs or NGK because they don't have that screw on terminal)

Check each spark plug wire for the correct resistance as shown in the FSM.
Make sure the spark plug and coil wires are fully seated on the cap, plugs and the coil.

(When I purchased my truck the previous owner installed new aftermarket plug wires. They passed the resistance check but the distributor cap and coil wire terminals weren't executed correctly. The metal connectors that push into the cap and coil are straight but the boot is molded at a 90 degree angle. To put it politely, that's messed up. The combination applies upward pressure to the terminal attempting to lift the terminal out of the distributor cap and coil. It kept slightly backing the coil wire out of the coil and I ended up installing new 90 degree terminals on the wires.
Not a biggie to me because I always purchase cut to fit wires on all my V8 stuff so I already had the correct terminals and crimper on hand to fix them. If I had to purchase wires I'd make sure the wires have the correct 90 degree terminals and boots to avoid any problems. I'd probably purchase OEM wires and looms because I know they work well)

kawasakimoto_7

I actually just sprayed the entire engine bay with carb cleaner to re check for leaks and it seems like there is a leak at the throttle body gasket so im gonna replace that once I get home. When i spray the throttle body gasket area it actually seems to lower the idle though to the point on which it sounds like its gonna die...?

As far as the connections for the wires and cap go they all seem good, i checked those first. If those werent in correctly or pulling out it would run like poop while im driving down the road too?

Odin

Normally if the engine sucks a little in the rpm will raise. If it gets soaked it'll bog down.


Yea it should run bad all around if there's something off with the ignition system. But one never knows exactly what someone else is feeling from the vehicle. Sometimes it takes hyper awareness to detect problems.