annoying EFI
05-06-2009, 12:55 PM
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annoying EFI
ok so i was attempting to fix my runner again (22RE) and the problem now is that the injectors are not fireing, i think i might have fried the ECU or have a bad ground, its raining out right now so im not gonna check the ground. any ideas
05-06-2009, 05:54 PM
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ok not trying to sound like a tool here but how do you check a relay? well what im looking at is a relay not a fuse.
oh and you sig says you want a rust free ext cab truck, there is on here in PEI for 2800 its in really good shape, not molested.
oh and you sig says you want a rust free ext cab truck, there is on here in PEI for 2800 its in really good shape, not molested.
05-06-2009, 06:22 PM
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checking a relay-
you have to determine which terminals are the coil and which are the switched contacts. then you energize the coil and check for continuity in the contacts based on the relay design. This might help:
you have to determine which terminals are the coil and which are the switched contacts. then you energize the coil and check for continuity in the contacts based on the relay design. This might help:
05-06-2009, 06:38 PM
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maaaan, you just blew my mind with those diagrams. im good at turning a wrench not applying power to terminals haha, ill give it a shot tomorrow.
05-06-2009, 06:43 PM
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lol. that diagram is of a standard relay that follows standard conventions with regards to terminal identification.
I should tell you though that some relays may not have their terminals labeled the same and some relays might not have the 87a contact, particularly if it's not a single pole / double throw (SPDT) relay or if it's some non-standard configuration.
what relay are you looking at testing?
I should tell you though that some relays may not have their terminals labeled the same and some relays might not have the 87a contact, particularly if it's not a single pole / double throw (SPDT) relay or if it's some non-standard configuration.
what relay are you looking at testing?
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05-06-2009, 06:50 PM
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ummmm........i know what my battery is. thats about it for electrical stuff. oh and somthing i noticed. in the fuse box in the engine bay there is a place labled CHM and im missing the relay.....how important is that. lol
05-06-2009, 07:21 PM
#10
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#Electrical
Couple of simple relay tests are to listen for it to click when you turn it on or off (it should). If it is too noisy to hear, put your finger on the relay and feel for the click. Then if it does not click, that means the relay coil is burned out. If it does click and the thing it controls does not turn on as expected, then you either have a problem with the contacts in the relay or in the wiring supplying power to the relay or to the load. So to check the latter, you can rig up a jumper wire to plug into the relay socket to connect the input and output terminals (typically 30 and 87) and see if the device turns on with the jumper installed. If not, wiring issues, if it does, the relay is bad.
05-06-2009, 08:03 PM
#11
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If you think your fuel pump may not be running, some troubleshooting ideas:
https://www.yotatech.com/51127605-post14.html
If pump is okay, have you checked for power at the injectors when the ignition is on? If no power, trace wire back to IG2 terminal of ignition switch.
You can do a quick check of the IG2 terminal by checking for power at the IGN fuse in driver kick panel fuse block: that fuse is powered by IG2 (but power to injectors does not pass through that fuse - goes through a separate wire). If no power at IGN fuse when ignition is on, either bad switch or bad connection.
The ecu fires the injectors by grounding them, so if the injectors have power, check for the grounding pulses while someone is cranking the motor. Try a test light between the two injector leads (with connector disconnected) or a continuity tester (or ohmmeter) between the not-hot injector lead and a good ground, but the pulses are very brief, something on the order of 30 milliseconds, so your instrument will have to be fast-responding to catch it.
If you're not seeing pulses of ground, the troubleshooting section of the fsm has an alternative method of troubleshooting the injector circuit of the 22RE on page IG1-133:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf
That technique doesn't check for grounding pulses but verifies that voltage from the injectors does make it all the way to terminals #10 and #20 at the ecu when ignition is on. If those terminals are hot, but the injectors are not firing, then you can be fairly sure the ecu is not grounding them.
A way to check whether the injectors are firing is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the side of the injector while someone is cranking the motor - the clicks will be loud and clear if it's firing.
Here's what normally should happen: The distributor generates crankshaft position (Ne) signals, which are sent to the igniter, and from the igniter on to the ecu at terminal Ne. Based on those pulses, the ecu turns around and sends an ignition pulse to the igniter on IGT. The igniter, if it is working right, sends a pulse back to the ecu on IGF - that's a check to make sure ignition is firing. The ecu, receiving the IGF pulse, pulses ground on #10 and #20 to fire the injectors.
A problem with any of those components or the connections between them, or any key system grounds, will result in no injector grounding pulses.
First, check the connections at the distributor and igniter. Sometimes a pin gets pushed back in a connector and doesn't make contact, so check for that. Be sure to verify that the igniter ground is good.
Here's a wiring diagram for the ignition circuit:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2systemci.pdf
If you haven't found the problem, you'll need to check the signal rotor clearances and signal coil resistance in the distributor:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
See also page EG1–134 of the EFI troubleshooting section of the fsm for some checks you can make of the igniter:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf
Igniters can be killed by hooking battery or jumper cable up backwards, and they can be killed by low resistance on the coil, so may as well check both coil circuits while you have the ohmmeter in the neighborhood.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
If you STILL haven't found the trouble, check that all the wires involved have continuity, and check all ecu grounds, especially E1, E01 & E02, and if necessary check all of the grounds, engine and chassis.
https://www.yotatech.com/51127605-post14.html
If pump is okay, have you checked for power at the injectors when the ignition is on? If no power, trace wire back to IG2 terminal of ignition switch.
You can do a quick check of the IG2 terminal by checking for power at the IGN fuse in driver kick panel fuse block: that fuse is powered by IG2 (but power to injectors does not pass through that fuse - goes through a separate wire). If no power at IGN fuse when ignition is on, either bad switch or bad connection.
The ecu fires the injectors by grounding them, so if the injectors have power, check for the grounding pulses while someone is cranking the motor. Try a test light between the two injector leads (with connector disconnected) or a continuity tester (or ohmmeter) between the not-hot injector lead and a good ground, but the pulses are very brief, something on the order of 30 milliseconds, so your instrument will have to be fast-responding to catch it.
If you're not seeing pulses of ground, the troubleshooting section of the fsm has an alternative method of troubleshooting the injector circuit of the 22RE on page IG1-133:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf
That technique doesn't check for grounding pulses but verifies that voltage from the injectors does make it all the way to terminals #10 and #20 at the ecu when ignition is on. If those terminals are hot, but the injectors are not firing, then you can be fairly sure the ecu is not grounding them.
A way to check whether the injectors are firing is to place the metal rod of a mechanics stethoscope against the side of the injector while someone is cranking the motor - the clicks will be loud and clear if it's firing.
Here's what normally should happen: The distributor generates crankshaft position (Ne) signals, which are sent to the igniter, and from the igniter on to the ecu at terminal Ne. Based on those pulses, the ecu turns around and sends an ignition pulse to the igniter on IGT. The igniter, if it is working right, sends a pulse back to the ecu on IGF - that's a check to make sure ignition is firing. The ecu, receiving the IGF pulse, pulses ground on #10 and #20 to fire the injectors.
A problem with any of those components or the connections between them, or any key system grounds, will result in no injector grounding pulses.
First, check the connections at the distributor and igniter. Sometimes a pin gets pushed back in a connector and doesn't make contact, so check for that. Be sure to verify that the igniter ground is good.
Here's a wiring diagram for the ignition circuit:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2systemci.pdf
If you haven't found the problem, you'll need to check the signal rotor clearances and signal coil resistance in the distributor:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
See also page EG1–134 of the EFI troubleshooting section of the fsm for some checks you can make of the igniter:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...27troubles.pdf
Igniters can be killed by hooking battery or jumper cable up backwards, and they can be killed by low resistance on the coil, so may as well check both coil circuits while you have the ohmmeter in the neighborhood.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
If you STILL haven't found the trouble, check that all the wires involved have continuity, and check all ecu grounds, especially E1, E01 & E02, and if necessary check all of the grounds, engine and chassis.
Last edited by sb5walker; 05-06-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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