Meatlog66

i think my crankshaft pulley timing mark is 180 degrees from where it should be. with the mark lines up with the 0 degree timing mark (on either stroke) the 1st piston is complete down...but when it came time to put the pulley onto the crankshaft, it wouldnt go any other way. not sure if this is completely normal for my truck or what, but i have it lined up 180 degrees from 0 degrees bTDC and it starts right up, idles fine, but after 5-10 minutes of idling...i start to hear a metallic chugging noise. i haven't been able to determine where or what it is, ill post a video if you guys think it will help.

the other problem, im pulling 3 codes...24...31...41...
24 - air intake temp sensor
31 - manifold and/or airflow meter sensor signal
41 - TPS signal

any opinions would be greatly appreciated...

RSR

Did you remove the cap from your distributor? What cylinder is it pointing at when at 0 btdc.

Meatlog66

it would rotate between 2nd and 3rd spark plug. with the current setup, i can match up every other timing mark to where its suppose to be...camshaft sprocket, distributor gear teeth, and the dizzy on 1st plug when at TDC. the problem to me just seems that my crankshaft pulley timing score mark just seems on the wrong side...which makes using a Tgun impossible.

YotaWoRx

Sometimes the pulley slips on the harmonic balancer, causing the timing mark to be way off.....

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

You can pull the pulley off the crank and verify its marks. The 0 degree mark should be exactly in line with the keyway. Likewise, when the key on the crank is pointing straight up, the #1 piston should be at TDC and the cam sprocket mark should be pointing straight up or straight down depending on which stroke the #1 piston is on. If the pulley did in fact rotate on the balancer, it won't cause any issues with assembly. The engine will go together fine and have no problems. You won't, however, be able to set the ignition timing since that requires a timing light which references the timing marks on the pulley.

As for the codes, both 24 and 31 come from the AFM. You might have a loose/dirty connection try wiggling the plug and then disconnecting the battery for a minute (this clears the code). You might have also left it unplugged after a filter change and it threw a code. If the code comes back, you can test the meter using the procedure in the FSM.

The TPS code is likely thrown because of TPS adjustment. Test and adjust it per the FSM or 4Crawler's writeup. Carb cleaner on the throttle body with the TPS installed has been known to kill them. Another small possibility is that the throttle cable is sticking and not allowing the throttle to fully close. The computer will only see that the idle signal is never sent and assume the TPS is having issues.

Meatlog66

if i had to guess i would dare say that the pulley has slipped on the balancer. the key was pointing upward, and all the other marks were correct. would the engine be able to run properly if (metaphorically of course) the piston was up on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression. every TDC definition ive ever read talks about compression compression compression...not sure if it accidentally being on the exhaust stroke would make a difference or not.

anyone have any ideas about that metallic chugging noise? ill post a video if you think it will help...

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

It makes no difference. The only position sensor is in the distributor so there is no such thing as 180 off on these engines. As long as the distributor is installed correctly and the cam is timed correctly the spark and fuel timing will be correct. Keep in mind though, without the timing mark on the pulley, you can't adjust the distributor to get the spark timing to 5 degrees before TDC with the diagnostic pins jumped.

Meatlog66

this is true. i figured i would make a new mark on the pulley to help with that.

YotaWoRx

Chk to see if the outside of the pulley edge is flush with the balancer. If not you will need to remove the whole assembly and pound it back on till its flush. If its not flush there is a chance it will work its way all the way off and cause mucho problems. Also the belts wont line up properly and will wear faster and or squeal.

Meatlog66

oh ok...it shouldnt be that difficult to take it off. i bent the dust guard when i removed it the first time, but i tried to bend it back the best i could. i might even be able to see if i could un-turn it that way i can actually use a Tgun on the bastard!

Meatlog66

yeah it wind up being the dust cover on the HB. i bent it back into as much of a circle shape as i could, but i guess i forgot to make it flush. i heard these things are suppose to have a some kind of back washer or something along those lines...could anyone possibly link me a pic of one?

much appreciated...