Flash319

double post.......aagg

Flash319

I looked at the proper schematic. Small white is constant 12v, no switch (am1 40amp fuse). It is for the regulator and should not draw power unless red (ign) is 12v.
If it is drawing power with the red switched off then your regulator in the alternator is ng.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

On the subject of heat shrink, the OP mentioned he used marine heat shrink, in my mind it probably is the same as what the automotive group calls adhesive heat shrink, or sealing heat shrink which has a melt-able glue inside that seals the connection. Only down side, is it can't be used where the temp gets too hot and melts the glue. I'm not sure what temp that is though.

yotajakes

First thing I'll check is to see if I hAve voltage on red. Then continue on with the other ideas that have been said and I'll make sure to write all my findings down and post back up what I get.

It's funny how everything is kinda pointing to the alternator. My luck I've probably got 3 bad parts from the store In a row.

yotajakes

Ya it's the glue inside heatshrink. Keeps the water out. It's well enough away from any heat source. Of course if it's near anything hot enough to remedy the glue it will more than likely fry the shrink and wire as well. I also use an electrical wrap, kinda looks like thick electrical tape, but no glue. It sticks to itself. Great stuff. Use it to make tool handle grips, on electrical wire, handles heat well and super abrasion resistant.

RAD4Runner

Just would like to clarify, you're measuring with ammeter in series with the fusible link wire, correct?

yotajakes

In series to the negative on the battery.

RAD4Runner

hmmm...
There are two wires connected to battery negative post; One goes to the fender, the other to the block. How are you able to measure all current flow? Which ground wire/cable are you connecting ammeter in series with?

Why not in series with the fusible link wire? That way you'll measure ALL current flow.

yotajakes

It honestly never occurred to me to hook up to the fusible link. And I hook up to the negative post and terminal. Negative cable is unhooked from battery. Gap bridged with the ammeter.

RAD4Runner

Sorry, still unclear.
So...
THICK negative cable that connects to engine block is unhooked from battery and you insert the ammeter between that and battery.
Ground wire to fender is still connected?
Then you are not measuring current through the fender ground wire.

yotajakes

Disconnect negative cable from battery.. install lead 1 to battery cable lug end. Connect lead 2 to negative battery post. Not disconnecting anything from engine block or fender.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of that kind of wrap used to make wire harnesses (the outer wrapping). I've been using Scotch Super 33+ which is a vinyl electrical tape (like the electrical tape from 20 years ago) and some wire harness tubing. Both very expensive but seems to work well. What kind of cost is the wrap you're talking about and where can you get it?

Anyway to be on topic, pretty sure it doesn't matter which battery post you use as long as the amp meter is between the post on the battery and the harness terminal/clamp since either way the power flows though the meter. I learned the same method, negative off and meter between from my dad which works on cars for a living.

yotajakes

I haven't really sourced the tape locally. I get it from work, when the roll gets low. 3m makes it though so I'm sure anywhere that sells 3m stuff may carry it.

I prefer to do the negative versus poitive so no accidental grounding and fireworks.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Yea that is the reason my dad said to use the ground instead of positive.

If you would, I'd be interested in the model number, or some way to reference the exact product. That will make the online search easier and might be able to find bulk for cheaper price after I sample a roll . I do know 3m makes very good stuff and generally it has a price to reflect the quality lol.

yotajakes

You can find it on amazon. Or search google. F4 tape is what it's called. Or self fusing silicon tape.

Kean

Scotch 70 maybe?:

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Self-F.../dp/B0029Z5RSY
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/3...y-empalmar.PDF

Here's F4:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I need to look into this stuff myself.

yotajakes

That's the stuff.

RAD4Runner

AAH! There you go. "The terminal/clamp" is disconnected. That's the clarification I was waiting for, to confirm that total current through the fender ground and through engine block ground passes through the ammeter.

yotajakes

So update.. hunts took the front seat to the yota. So I checked voltage at the red ignition wire. No reading key off. 12v key on. Reading through all the suggestions and other posts, I'm thinking that the alternator is yet again no good. More likely the regulator / diodes. I'm getting good at pulling this alternator.

RAD4Runner

That's the attitude, looking at the brighter side of things.