Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I know this has been beaten to death, but everything I'm finding on google (most leads here) seems inconclusive to what I'm after....

A have an 87 4Runner SR5. There are 2 coolant temperature senders that come OEM: the one on top of the T stat housing, and the one below the T stat.

I have a 1/8" NPT sender for my Autometer gauge that currently sits in-line with my top radiator hose...I'd like to get away from that, and also not wait for my T stat to open before I get readings....

Location of the second sender (for the ECU, right?):





Question is, is there a THIRD location I can tap into for my 1/8" NPT sender? I think the 2 OEM senders are 1/8" BSPT, wich is 1 thread per inch different....

Have people had better luck using a Tee that has BSPT/NPT/BSPT connectors?

jeetS

the stock temp sender location is on top of the lower intake manifold. You have to look down into the valley between the valve cover and the upper intake manifold.

That is what I used...If I remember correctly I used an adapter for the threads

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Jeets.

I have my head off the block as of last night...so I stole this photo off Google. I think you're talking about the green and brown plugs you see below? Also, I know about the one on top of the T stat housing (black in this photo).

I don't want to replace my senders that are OEM - I want to augment them, so Need a way to either tap into where they already are and share among 2 senders, or find a third location I can tap into safely.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

There is the coolant drain plug on the exhaust side, you'll need some good shielding probably. For some reason I'm thinking there is another plug on the rear of the block, not sure about that one.

xylicon

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-gauge-256493/

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

thanks! I remember your thread on this and it looks great. I already have one there, OEM (SR5 option?) and I am looking to mount it on the other side of the t stat in my system so I don't have to wait for the t stat to open to get a reading I will check the block and see if I can find a drain plug to use.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Why do you want to keep the stock sending unit and gauge working??

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...59&postcount=4
Provides the following picture. Not sure of the year, the one facing up is the stock location and the one facing left is where he moved the stock one too after removing a plug.


And the manual shows the location for the block drain, third picture down.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...49coolantc.pdf

and this one from toyotaoffroad, middle of the engine at the rear of #4


I should point out you have four sensors, the three you see in your photo (Not counting the vac switch) and the one just below the cold start injector, Odds are one of these(NOT the one to the ECM ECT) you can just tap the signal off of.

xylicon

Redundancy, and its easy to do. My Autometer gauge failed on me a few weeks ago, luckily my stock gauge was still operational for the week it took for me to get a new one.

Same for the oil pressure gauge, I still have my "idiot" light operational as well as a gauge.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Exactly why I'm doing it.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Co_94_pickup - thanks for the leads, that helps a lot. Didn't know about cold start location and that may be my best bet, as I don't want this too close to my header or the ground

Cheers,

Phil

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The one in the middle of the intake is the guage one. Since you want it redundant you wouldn't want to tap the sender signal. at some point the extra bung location was removed and the intake metal thined in that area, but since you have it apart anyway you can take the intake in and have one drilled and brazed/welded.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Co_94_PU, I just re read that ih8mud post and it seems that setup with the 4th sender location was on 85 EFI trucks only - and mine is an 87 (I am 99% certain I don't have that setup). I am taking the intake to a shop to get hot tanked next week (I'm out of town all week for work) so hopefully I can look at the intake again and see where is a good spot for them to drill/tap if they can. If not, there's always the side of the block I can look at instead.

Thanks

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Sorry, should maybe of stuck that in a seperate paragraph, I did mention they quit drilling and tapping a hole there after some year.

It's still a good place to locate it but if the area is thinned too much they'll need to weld or braze a bung/nut or something on the outside instead of just drilling and tapping the new hole.

You have a picture of the general area in your headgasket thread, but it's kind of from the wrong side. It appears maybe it's flat across that area now, again the wrong angle. I recall seeing another picture of that area and it still has the round shape but no protusion.
http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4a454b27.jpg

Here is a pic from the other side, incase I can't find the one I was thinking of. It still has the lobed shape but no protrusion.
http://www.christopherbrowning.com/2...images/12c.jpg

Here is one from Terrys87 85 build, don't worry pretty sure thats a 89+ engine from his brothers truck, it has a good angle.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the extra pics - these are great! I will take a look when back this weekend to see what I have to work with

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and what do you do to your wire brushes to clean them up/ I have some from HF that are full of gummy grime from cleaning parts. Do you soak in water and dish detergent, then hose off or something? Mine are BAD.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

OK one more question...in that photo you posted from Terry's build, it's the flat area just below and to the right of the brass sender that's standing up straight up - just to the left of the wire brush? One would drill/tap perpendicular to the existing brass sender there?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yep that is the spot from the earlier photos, just below the sender is a round hump drill the center of this then decide if it's thick enough for threads if it's not thick enough for your taste or there is interference of the flow or senders have them attach a nut/bung on the outside.

I think the key to the clean spot is it's just never been touched there Depending how narly the wires are you can comb them out with another brush. Soaking in soapy water might cause them to crack, soaking in solvent might dry them out. You could always source them from HF and just trash em when they get to ugly.

Terry will likely wander by and fill you in on how he cleans em if he does ect. My guess is they just "look better on tv" like every thing else