Rwill

Thank you for your help. Read through a lot of posts but have been unable to find a related problem that was fixed.
87 4runner, 22r. On the way home lights and gauges began to die but made it home. Battery was dead would not turn over. Hooked up some jumper cables, would turn over but not start. Removed Alternator found brushes gone, (280K) Replaced alternator with rebuilt that tested good. Still no start. Crack cold start injector during crank and sprays fuel, pulled #1 plug it has a good spark. Added fuel to plenum, still no start. Tries, but only seems to be firing on one cylinder on occasion. Compression is good. If you let it sit for a few hours and try again it almost runs but then dies off and goes back to chugging once in a while. Listening with a probe to injectors can hear a clicking on the ones I can reach. Solenoid resistor ohms with in specs. Wiring connections look good. Considered possible flooding and disconnected cold start wiring, but that did not make any difference.Checked codes and retrieved code 11 which says ECU or Switch according to on line search. The truck was running fine. Engine was rebuilt 5 years ago. I can’t see why an alternator dying would burn up an ECU. The jump was connected carefully and no sparks flew that I ever saw. Any ideas? I couldn’t find a definitive answer to code 11 as to what is meant by switch, either the AC or Neutral safety. I only have a Chilton manual. Thank you for your help.

Rwill

No response? Have since changed fuel filter as it was time, which didn't change anything. Tried to find a field service manual (FSM?) both of the links I found here were called to take down so still in the dark about a code 11 and details. I assume a 90 4Runner code 11 would be different?

toxsyn

Did some searching for you
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c...-causes-54581/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...7-22-re-72573/

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Chilton and Haynes should both have the code listed, I just don't remeber what section offhand, proably in the EFI, ECM, or electronics sections.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...es/index.shtml

Give the wires a once over at the battery, check your EFI fuse, and test the power at the ECM, and while your down there check the IDL and E2 wires.

NickMiller

FSM stands for "Factory Service Manual" and you can find the service manual at the link below... It's an archive version of the site where the FSM's were once stored

http://web.archive.org/web/201201120...ttora.com/fsm/

Rwill

I hope to borrow a noid light to test the injectors soon. I found the FSM site but only could find a manual for the 88. It listed codes for the fuel injection systems, but for the 22r-e there is no code 11?!?!? for the 22r-te there is but ours is just a 22r-e. So I assume that the 87 must be different and I need an 87 manual to chase this code. Thank you kindly for your time and help.

Rwill

I will look for the fusible link as well. Thank you

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

codes are on the link I provided. The manuals are generational you're fine with the 88. And just to be clear you have a "22r-e" since you have a cold start injector not a "22r" it's a carburated model.

Just go step by step thru the "no start" trouble shooting flow chart.

Rwill

Have found conflicting information for code 11 for 22r-e. FSM for 88 does not list one?!? I don't know why but the rest of the information has been very appreciated (Thank you NickMiller) But according the fine article by Jim Brink (Thanks to CO_94_PU) a code 11 refers to: short Circut in Check Connector T with A/C switch on or TPS-IDL point off. I don't know what that means. I know about the diagnostic connector but where or what is the check connector T and what has it to do with the AC switch. And what does it mean that TPS -IDL point off?
I used the info to check the pin outs on the TPS and the VTA-E2 legs are with in range as you open the throttle. IDL-E2 at throttle closed is supposed to be < 2.3K but it is infinite. It should change to infinite with a throttle opening from 0.02 to 0.03". So the IDL of the TPS may be bad but that is a small difference. I am not sure this would prevent the engine from running. It continues to almost start but after the cold start injector shuts down then it only coughs at certain points. If I add fuel in the plenum it tries harder but still will not run. I guess it is not the same as putting gas down a carb. So could a TPS go bad because of an alternator failure? Can a small out-liar in the IDL leg of the TPS shut down the engine. Does not seem likely. I could see it causing some idle issues but not start failure. I could not find any definitive information.
Next I will try using the 88 manual to trouble shoot the ECU. As a reminder this truck was running fine then the alternator failed on they way home. Tried to jump start it and would turn over but since then will not start. Has spark, good compression, fuel pump is fine. Gaining a good education on fuel system. Thanks again to those who have offered advice

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Code 11 usually means. The computer did not detect it was idling while in diagnostics mode, eg someone pressed the accelerator. It can also mean the TPS needs adjusting or is faulty, someone switched on the AC. All these are triggered only while in diagnostics test mode.

The TPS is a conductive strip and wiper type "switch" as opposed to a reed-switch, the strip type are a little more fragile to over-current problems(which you likely had due to the battery failure).
(You uh forgot the question mark I had a response typed out and my PC rebooted, so I'm scanning for question marks and trying to retype things and not miss any direct questions!)
IDL tells the computer when the throttle is closed and that the engine is supposed to be at idle speed. Computer does things like shut off the EGR system via the VSV when it is idling. Depending on the manifold vacuum an active EGR could cause the engine not to run.

T or T1 or TE1 all refer to the diagnostic connection, E and it's name-a-like are the ground. There are various conflicting names in the manuals and across model years.

Ok you tested TPS and the idle isn't registering, it likely means it needs adjusted. It could also mean there is a disconnect in the E2.

Attach a test light to battery + and the other end to the E2. If the light doesn't come on there is a disconnect on E2(eg TPS is ok, but computer might not be).
If the light does come on you need to test and adjust or replace&adjust the TPS. (You have to adjust a replacement per the manual so the computer knows to idle, just to be clear..)

Did you check the power at the fuses, eg no broken fuse-links?

Verify the ground straps are all clean and tight?

No major fraying on the battery or ground straps?

All the vacuum lines are connected, and hopefully in the right spots?

Once you know you have good clean power leaving the battery you want to make sure it's getting to the important spots...

Like the ECM, there is a full list of voltages you can test here in the manual, PDF page 238 (FI-32). Testing these voltages at the ECM allows you to test various sensors quickly. You will need to unmount the ECM from the body, firmly attach it's case to one of the mounts where you removed it from to protect it from static discharge with a spare bit of wire. Also be gentle with the wires!

You will be testing these voltages with the computer attached to the wiring harness by pushing probes into the backside of the plugs, this is of course a gentle operation also, you just need to make steady contact not a lot of pressure.

Assuming you have good voltage readings, on the tests you can do with a none running engine..

Proceed to checking the Coil resistance, and distributor pickup coil.

if you make it this far without finding anything you know you have good power, grounds, sensors, spark and ECM. The engine will likely be running, I expect you'll find and correct something in those tests.

There is of course a trouble shooting flow chart in the FSM(several actually), which is better than my approach(depending on who you ask) The chart for "No start - cranks OK" starts on PDF page 218 (FI-12), there are also tips and instructions in the prior FI- pages.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yep missed atleast one question..

I'm not sure exactly which connector is your diag, but there are pictures and info on
4crawlers website

Let me/us know if I missed any others.

And some else might wander by and correct any thing I missed or err'd. I didn't preview or anything

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I missed it or the Op never did mention it.

I would hope after the battery had been discharged due to the alternator failure it had been charged back up to a full charge.

Some of these 22REc engines can be a little finicky at times while others it does not seem to matter.

over the years I had like 3 that unless the battery was above 12 volts before trying a booster battery /charger they just would not start. Crank good spit and sputter but not start

It makes no sense from a electrical sense perhaps a difference in the ECU

It also never hurts to upgrade the battery cables as well.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks! I missed that too, or maybe I was confusing him with the southern cross guy that shorted out his alternator.

Rwill

So the good news is it is running, the bad you already can guess.I don't know why.
I started on the ECM check as far as I could go with a non running truck. The only oddity was the IDL-E2 was showing 11 volts whether the throttle was open or not. So I put the ECM back on and tried to start the engine. It was acting as usual but then never really died off as it has been. Continued to crank and sputter for 30 seconds then took off?!?!?!??! So I have no definite thing to pin all this on. I suspect the weather has warmed up a lot as well as maybe some ground made a connection that I had not found to check. It has continued to start as well as this cold morning. I decided to try just disconnecting the TPS and it still started and ran fine up and down hills as well as 50 mph?!? Did set a code 7 for the TPS with it disconnected but it cleared and no codes with it re connected. So it seems that as typical if you mess with the electrical long enough it starts working or you burn something up. I guess if I have a repeat in the next month or so I will try to add any helpful information I can in the future. Thanks to one and all for the help and education. It is great to find a friend when your a stranger.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Er you mean mounted it right, the voltage tests are performed with the ECM connected to the harness. If you have power on IDL w/o the ECm connected thats a definite problem.

Sounds like the TPS needs adjusting. That code 11 we were talking about earlier, see if you can reproduce it.

Diag jumper in, start engine, shut down engine, check codes. Do this w/o moving the throttle, if you get code 11 the IDL isn't getting to the computer.

Short version TPS adjustment. Insert .07 feeler locate spot where circuit opens and tighten TPS, verify 0.05 is closed and 0.8 is open.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

PS. lol got a kick out of that "So it seems that as typical if you mess with the electrical long enough it starts working or you burn something up", yep thats the way it goes with dirty loose connections or broken wires.

Rwill

I took the ECM off the kick panel leaving it attached to the harness to do the back probing. I also had it grounded with a wire during my testing. I did check for codes after my experiment by removing the TPS connector. That is when I got the code 7. No 11 anymore. As far as I could tell from my test run with it disconnected that is the only symptom of it being disconnected? I expected to see a lot of stumbling but it ran fine?
I then disconnected the battery to erase codes. Hooked the battery and TPS back up, started right up, went for a ride. Checked for codes again none. According to the code list I should have had a code 1. But it just lit up and stayed lit. tried it twice to be sure.
It idles smoothly and drives flawlessly. So if I get a sunny day I will check out the TPS again to see if my resistance values have changed. Do you have a list for the location of the grounds I should be concerned about? Thanks once more.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

With the TPS unpluged it uses a fixed fuel/air ratio based solely on the AFM reading. Well not fixed it still tunes with the o2 sensor. But it will run richer than with the sensor hooked up.

So yeah it'll run with either the TPS of AFM unpluged but not both, atleast I'm pretty sure it needs one or the other. They're smart guys they might of thought of a way.

I assume it would have set 7(position) and 11(idle)

Sorry can't think of any reason, nothing logical atleast, that the light would be steady instead of indicating "system normal". Cross connection(dirt, water, carbonized plug), or a broken wire insulator. The light gets it's ground thru the ECM.

The IDL code could have just been a dirty or loose connection. (The fiddle with it and it fixes it's self syndrome)

There is a thread for 22re grounds "22re grounds w/ pictures - The guide!!!" IIRC, should still be on the first page but google will find it.

The grounds are all interconnected, but the primary (shortest route) ground for the ECM is the one located at the upper and lower intake junction.