ayoung101

so for the last year or so i've been having prolems with my truck starting. if it cranks, it'll start, period. but every now and then it just doesn't crank. sometimes i can re-turn the key a few times and it'll turn. sometimes i have to put a battery charger on the battery and then it'll turn over (not sure why). i already rebuilt the starter per this thread (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ct-fix-193101/) (and by the way, excellent writeup, it was cake!). for awhile it seemed to work ok, but it almost seemed to have a split second "delay" before starting, while i was holding the key in the start position. i might have been imagining it. but yesterday it did nothing again for a few key turns.

so that leaves me the clutch switch, the ignition switch, and the wiring. i know for sure the hot wire to the starter is good, cuz i checked it out during my starter rebuild. i'm guessing my clutch switch is ok, because hitting the clutch start cancel button seems to have no effect (someone please verify if this thinking is correct). so that leaves the ignition switch or the signal wire, right? i REALLY would prefer to not have a seperate key for my ignition, and so i was wondering if i can "refurbish" my ignition switch, instead of just putting a new one in. is it possible?

Junkers88

Had the same issue and it was the ground cable from the battery not having a clean and tight connection. Check all of your grounds, pull them, clean them and reinstall them.

ayoung101

i'm assuming you mean the power cable (going to the positive)? it grounds out through the engine block. if so, that SHOULD be ok, as i removed it and cleaned it up during the removal of the starter.

Ardent

X2 on battery connections. Get a good terminal cleaner and brush and make sure they're tight.

abecedarian

Can also be the ignition switch itself causing an issue. When it acts up, try jumping the solenoid start terminal directly from the battery and see if it spins. If it does, installing a relay triggered by the ignition switch which in turn connects the start terminal on the solenoid to the battery may be the ticket.

Magnusian

The positive (+ or red) terminal of the battery should never be directly connected to ground. That'll drain your battery good and quick and cause all sorts of problems as a result.

I'm going to assume that you meant the negative (- or black) terminal which should be hooked up to both the body and the block as ground. Because of this, individual electrical components will use either the body or the block as ground, make sure the connections between these components are attached firmly without corrosion around the connection points. These are usually direct connects made by a bolt on the component itself though sometimes (not sure if this happens in our trucks) there is a cable involved. Parts you should make sure have a proper ground connection that are related to starting are the starter relay (if you have one, iirc some models don't) and your ignition switch.

Junkers88

Not your positive cable, your negative one that actually bolts to the block.

I meant "ground" cable (I was typing rather faster than I usually do and didn't proof read the post).

ayoung101

sorry, that's not at all what i meant. i meant the power cable goes from the starter post to the positive battery post. the starter itself grounds out by being bolted to the engine block, it has no wire whatsoever going to the negative battery terminal, nor does anywhere on my truck have anything going from the positive battery terminal to ground. i found out the hard way (when i was like 10) what happens when you touch + to - (or ground) terminals.

all ground wires and power wires are good. i'm highly suspecting something with my ignition key switch, (or less likely my clutch start cancel switch or signal wire), which is why my original question was whether or not i could "refurbish" my ignition switch.

peow130

if you have a floormat that's sort of thick, it'll prevent you from pushing the clutch to the floor and fully disengaging the anti-start mechanisms..

ayoung101

no problem there, no floor mat, and the clutch start cancel button would cancel that problem out even if i did.

mtnfreak

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
Something else to try. Adding a relay worked for me.

91Toyota

Hey, no problem for the write up!

I'm STILL experiencing the same problems too. It will just out of nowhere not crank...and simply "click"

I've replaced the battery (negative side) cable and didn't make a difference. I'm going to replace the positive side next and hopefully that will fix it.

If you find out what went wrong...please post back!

91Toyota

I've also been thinking about my ignition switch/clutch switch (whatever the name is)

ayoung101

wow, i'm so dumb. i didn't even think about the starter relay, completely slipped my mind. i do in fact have a starter relay in my system, from toyota, and it is bolted to the very top of the passenger side fender. it's super easy to get to, says "starter relay" right on it. anyways, i'm just gonna go ahead and change it out, this one prolly has 20 years on it.

anyone know the toyota part number for this? i called an auto parts store and they said they can't get it. or better yet, can someone tell me the specs on it so i can just buy a generic el cheapo one?

ayoung101

anyone know anything about the relay?

ayoung101

holy hell it's $142 from toyota. that ain't happenin. somebody help me out here.

Junkers88

For one relay???? CRAP! There has got to be a generic one you can get..... let me do some looking.

Magnusian

If the first one lasted for 20 years, why cheap out and get a non-oem one that might not last as long. $150 is not cheap, but if it lasts for 20 more years then why not go for it.

ayoung101

this truck isn't gonna last another 20 years. the rust is overtaking everything.

besides, i'd rather replace a super cheap part every 5 years. especially something that is this easy to replace. it's 1 bolt, 1 plug, and i don't even have to bend over or reach into tight places to change it (it's right on top of the passenger side fender).

also, i'm not even 100% sure that this is the culprit. i was thinking $5, tops. i mean, comon, i could probably find one from freakin' radio shack that'll get the job done. relays aren't exactly rocket science, ya know?

ayoung101

fyi, the part # i need is 28300-35010. there's a few that are very similar on ebay for less than $10, but not the exact part.