lancelincoln

I have questions, not about install though, I can read the write-ups. Picking up a 3.4 from a 97 Taco. Has 170k and a blown HG. Would you just fix that and test compression then install if all is good? Or should I rebuild completely?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Is the vehicle going to be a daily driver or a toy?
I would tear it down and see how bad it is, could have warped the heads or worse. Get one in running condition if you can unless the one your looking at is really cheap.

lancelincoln

Yeah, I'm thinking teardown is best. I'm trading some wheels for it that are just taking up space in my shop, so it doesn't get any cheaper than that. My 3.0 is running great so no hurry. When building it up, anything I should do for performance? Larger bore, cams, etc? It is a DD/wheeler and a pretty nice rig, so I don't want to just slap things together.

aztoyman

I recommend getting a complete running donor. You will have all you need and parting out the rest will fund your swap.

You may end up spending a bunch fixing that engine and still need more for your swap.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I can't help you on the performance parts as mine is all stock. But the TRD sc might be the best bang for your buck though.

lancelincoln

I'm hoping it's not too bad. TRD SC is definitely the ultimate goal. I'd like to get a complete donor, but funds are low. My plan is really to teardown this basically free motor and hope a rebuild isn't too costly. I will be able to piece together things I need for the swap month to month. I know I'll need an ECU and wiring. I need an oil pan as I'm SAS and some other odds and ends. I guess I'll just star with the teardown and decide from there. If it's toast, I'm out nothing. If it isn't, I'm hoping you guys with hold my hand through the build process lol!

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Just because the engine is free it might be cheaper to do the swap if you had a running donor in the long run. The little things add up fast. I bought a running donor for my swap and still put about 800 in it. And it's still stock.

lancelincoln

True. I'm going to start a list tonight and figure it all out. Finding a running donor in Washington for a decent price is next to impossible. People seem to think a rolled Taco is worth it's weight in gold around here.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Contact Deathcougar, He usually sells a "swap package" once a month or so. You would just need to find a manual ecu and matching harness depending on emissions regs. Most places you look will ask 1500-2000

lancelincoln

1500 for ecu and harness? I thought ecu was like 150 and you could either rewire the existing harness or get the prebuil harness for 500. Can't remember the site that sells them although there are some great write-ups on doing your own wiring. Either way, I think 600-ish for master rebuild and another 1000 tops for odds and ends (ecu, wiring, oil pan,etc.) And maybe headers if anyone has a suggestion on those. I figure if I spend a couple hundred a month over the winter, I can drop it in by spring.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

no for a motor with all the accessories including evap system.

lancelincoln

OK. That's what I was thinking. I think having the complete motor to rebuild is a good start. I can hit the junkyards from time to time for the nic nacs. I know it's the harder way to do it, but budget wise it makes sense and my motor is strong, so there's no rush.

I figure at the end I can pull a few hundred for my 3.0 since the top end is fresh.