YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-07-2008, 01:54 PM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
Aisin Locking Hubs Tear Down/Build Up

okay, so i know that there are multiple write-ups on this forum, but being a person who relies more on visual instruction than written, i decided to make my own. DIAL UP BE WARNED!!! THERE ARE TONS OF PICS!!

First off, supplies that i used.

1) Valvoline Multi-Purpose Grease Part No. 614
2) snap ring pliers
3) 3 different sizes of metal picks
4) 1 flat bladed pick
5) 10mm socket and driver
6) 4 small plastic baggies(to seperate bolts)
7) 1 can of Rustoleum Hammertone Paint (Black)
8) 1 can of blue paint(i will edit this when i get the chance)
Click the image to open in full size.

Also, Torque Specs
Hub body bolts = 23 lb-ft.
Gold bolt = 11 lb-ft.
Dial face bolts = 11lb-ft.

alright, now the build.
i started out with a set of hubs that came off an 87 SAS 4runner that was totaled, and it looked like it had never been washed. lol.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Okay, so, from now on, it will be mostly pics with me narrarating them.

pulled off the 6 bolts on the face, and removed hub face.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

using the snapring pliers to remove the C-clip from the back of the hub dial.
Click the image to open in full size.

be sure that when the dial is removed that you DONT lose the tiny ball bearing and tiny spring, i put them right into a plastic bag after cleaning. It can take a while to either find it or go buy a new one.
EDIT: a tip from member, rot
Quote:
Originally Posted by rot View Post
Here's my tip:
If you manage to lose the little ball (as I have) and have an old broken 1/4" socket extension laying around (as I did), the ball in the extension is the same size as ball you just lost.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Pulling the guts.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I used a sharp pic to remove the tension spring from the fowler pawl/clutch assembly.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next, i turned the hub body over and used a flat tip and a narrow tip pick to remove the C-clip from the hub body.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Once all the parts were removed, i took them into the garage to the parts cleaner.
Click the image to open in full size.

I use a 3 gallon Big Red Jacks electric pump parts cleaner that my dad got at harbor freight a year ago for 50 bucks. its small, but it works!
There is also a way to clean the parts with brake cleaner and Mineral water for anyone who doesnt have access to a cleaner.
And by all the parts, i mean every part including all nuts, bolts and washers.
P.S. be careful, using the parts cleaner solvent for long periods of time can cause your hands to start burning and then go absolutely numb.

okay, all parts cleaned.
Click the image to open in full size.

big difference cleaned vs unclean.
Click the image to open in full size.

for re-assembly, i used Valvoline Multi-Purpose Grease Part No. 614
Click the image to open in full size.

here is a collage of me lightly coating all moving/sliding parts in grease.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then i re installed the c-clip to the hub body. then put the fowler pawl and tension spring back in place. make sure that the tension spring is placed as shown.
Click the image to open in full size.

the tension spring MUST ride on top of the little ears and UNDER the taller ears.
once the tension spring is on the fowler pawl, place it on top of the clutch as shown... the end of the spring must be lined up with the last spline on the clutch.
Click the image to open in full size.

then take a pick and push the spring into the groove.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

then you can re-install the dial into the hub face, and button the clutch and spring assembley back together. remember to replace the rubber gasket that goes around the dial face to protect the hub from contaminents. also, dont forget to re-install the tiny spring and ball bearing in the dial.
Click the image to open in full size.

Make sure the hubs are in "FREE" and button it all back up with the 6 bolts on the hub face.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Painting, while not necessary, certainly does give a nice touch to the hubs. Standard color for these hubs are red and black, but i chose a metalic blue and hammertone black.

painting the hub face and dial.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

REMOVING ADD FLANGE AND INSTALLING AISIN HUBS

Reall, other than some minor cleaning, and some really greasy hands, its really a straightforward job. i had it dont in about an hour if you dont count the run to the dealership for replacement bolts.

ok, so i started off getting stuff together for the swap, and yes, that is an old rug. gravel hurts my knees.
Click the image to open in full size.

loosen all bolts and lugnuts before lifting the truck up. then remove the tire, and start to remove the 6 acorn nuts holding the add flange on. Also, remove the dust cap with a small flathead screwdriver, and remove the 12mm Gold Bolt.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

as you can see in the photo above, the cone washers didnt completely come off of the studs, so i had to use a hammer and just lightly pounded the outside ring of the ADD flange. they promptly popped off, and so did the flange. turns out that the flange is just a 1/4 inch steel plate; well, it is basically.

This is what you get to see afterwards. as you can see below my 54mm nut has been taken off by a hackjob mechanic with a chisel instead of a socket. i just cleaned up the surface and placed the new round gasket into position.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

With the hub body in place. replace the cone washers, then the spring washers, and then the nuts, and tighten down to 23 lb-ft.
Click the image to open in full size.

Next tighten the Gold Bolt down to 11 lb-ft. If you were like me and had some hack mechanic work on your rig by the PO, then you may have some broken gold bolts. this is where my trip into town came into play. hat to get a recovery bit too.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

So, my dad showed me what to do to get the bolt out. basically drill a 5/64 round hole into the center of the broken bolt about 1/4 in deep, take the recovery bit and lightly tap it into place with a hammer and untwist the remaining portion. as you can see, i used a sandwich baggie to cover the inside of the hub body to protect from metal shavings. then i cleaned the inner hub body with brake cleaner jsut in case, and reapplied some lube.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

btw, in order to tighten the Gold Bolt, you need to insert the clutch and fowler pawl, but not the dial. the splines will lock up so that the CV shaft wont spin while its being torqued. took me a while to figure that one out.

after that you just line up the tabs on the fowler pawl that stick past the gears on the clutch with the 2 WIDE slots on the hub body. it will slide in freely, but make sure that the dial face and clutch assembly are in the FREE position before doing so. then replace the 6 dial face bolts and torque down to 11 lb-ft. and your done.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

All in all, this is a SIMPLE task that even the mechanically inept should be able to accomplish in about 3 hours start to finish. it is also very rewarding to see that you acomplished something that could save you hundreds of dollars in boots and axles in the future.

i just wanted to say, also, thanks to SCUBA for the late night advise on how to dis-assemble and re-assemble the hubs, and the clutch lock for the gold bolt trick.(i jsut about went crazy at 9'oclock at night!) Also, a big thanks to Wabbit. even though he offers hub rebuilding services through his business, he still offered great advice to me and informed me on the torque specs.
and thanks to all those who read, commented, and helped me with this!

Yotatech Rocks!
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(


Last edited by space-junk; 02-26-2009 at 05:33 PM.
space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 02:01 PM   #2
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
bigt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,268
do you have a s.a.s cuz those hubs are different than ifs different spline count!!! they are worth more money though!
__________________
1991 hilux
stinky tail pipe , bus turbo whine and the steering wheel on the RIGHT side
trail rig/beater 1982 suzuki sj410, 1 litre 45 thorobreed ponies and as tough as a yota

Where you go is your buisness, getting you home is ours
bigt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 02:03 PM   #3
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
drew303's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 2,879
Hey nice job!

Btw, if you do lose the ball and spring, it's not catastrophic. I think its there to help the dial move freer? Mine are gone dials still spin fine.

btw, nice laptop! Vostro! .... typing this on one right now =p
__________________
1987 Pickup (Truggy), single cab, 22R, E-fan, 260 cam
BUILD THREAD
TG 3" FR Springs, TG 4" R Springs, rear disc-brakes, chromoly rear axles, chromoly 27 Birfs, T-case brake, 5x 37x12.50r15 Goodyear MTR, Yukon 5.29 gears, F/R Aussie Lockers, MC 1600lb clutch, Magnaflow
drew303 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 02:10 PM   #4
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
scuba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 11,349
Teenie bit too much grease...But you should be fine...
Nice job...
And T is right...If those came of a sold axle thats weird...The SA ones were blue to begin with, IFS were red...


Edit: Oh and it looks to me like your missing the 12mm bolt that holds the hub body to the wheel...Youll have to pull the hub face/dial to install if you do have those bolts..Idk if i would advise using the hubs w/o that bolt..

__________________
SHUT UP AND WHEEL.

My 99 Tacoma Single Cab build. Now on full width Toyota axles. SAS Thread

Last edited by scuba; 11-07-2008 at 02:13 PM.
scuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 02:12 PM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
what should the spline count be??
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(

space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 02:38 PM   #6
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Typically...IFS hubs have the flat dial handles and are 27 spline. SFA hubs have the curved dial handles (they stick out) and are 30 spline. Thing is that either dial will work in either hub, so the type of dial is not always an indicator of what you got.

I agree that you used a bit much grease. I "light" coating is all that is necessary.

I bothered to count and I saw 27 splines.


Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-07-2008 at 02:41 PM.
waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2008, 04:40 PM   #7
Licensed Lunatic
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 12,256
travishbleederdude
great write-up man!

I wish it was around when I did my rebuild; very straight forward!

one option to painting though; when I rebuilt and painted mine, I sanded the paint off the raised lattering and arrows, then hit them with a few layers of clear coat; really makes the letters pop!

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
Read them. Follow them. Live by them.

just call me Travis

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-07-2008 at 04:42 PM.
iamsuperbleeder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2008, 12:02 AM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
Thanks soooo much wabbit!!
one thing that i noticed when i went to the parts counter at toyota today, their computer shows a physically shorter hub body for the IFS than the straight axle... wonder why...

and superbleeder, those look great! im going to sand the letters off, but i just wanted to give it the full three days to cure... overkill, but oh well... maybe i will clear coat them too... lol...

anyways, thanks again wabbit... you are the best...
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(


Last edited by space-junk; 11-08-2008 at 12:05 AM.
space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2008, 12:13 AM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
Quote:
Originally Posted by scuba View Post
Edit: Oh and it looks to me like your missing the 12mm bolt that holds the hub body to the wheel...Youll have to pull the hub face/dial to install if you do have those bolts..Idk if i would advise using the hubs w/o that bolt..
i have yet to actually tear into my truck, i just put the faces back on for pictures... heck, the bolts are no more than finger tight...

and as for grease, when you told me in flashchat to use a LIGHT amount of grease, i compared it to how much grease they came with and went with a lighter coating...
i.e.
Click the image to open in full size.

other than making it harder to turn the dials, it shouldnt have any adverse affect, should it?
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(

space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2008, 08:01 AM   #10
Licensed Lunatic
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 12,256
travishbleederdude
Quote:
Originally Posted by space-junk View Post
other than making it harder to turn the dials, it shouldnt have any adverse affect, should it?
well, I think I shoved too much grease in mine, cause it didn't really make the dials a little harder to turn (the new dial O-rings did that), it holds back the ring in there from sliding easily, which appears to be maing it harder to slide against the hub body to the locked and unlocked positions. It still moves and locks and unlocks, but it does so really slowly; it takes about a half a turn of the wheel to get them to engauge and disengauge. But really no big deal; it's no problem to remove 6 bolts, pull the cover off, and wipe some grease off...
__________________
Read them. Follow them. Live by them.

just call me Travis

Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-08-2008 at 08:03 AM.
iamsuperbleeder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 12:42 AM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
okay, so i understand why to only put a LIGHT coating on... i was playing with the dials today and one of them flat out locked about 1/3 of the way thru the sweep... so i tore them apart, and wiped a lot of grease off, buttoned em up and they work like new... very smooth turning...

also, while i was down there, i went ahead and painted the 6 retaining bolts for the hub face... same blue as before...
sory for the crappy pic, but camera is in the truck, so i used my phone...
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(

space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 03:19 AM   #12
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
scuba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 11,349
Quote:
Originally Posted by space-junk View Post
okay, so i understand why to only put a LIGHT coating on... i was playing with the dials today and one of them flat out locked about 1/3 of the way thru the sweep... so i tore them apart, and wiped a lot of grease off, buttoned em up and they work like new... very smooth turning...

also, while i was down there, i went ahead and painted the 6 retaining bolts for the hub face... same blue as before...
sory for the crappy pic, but camera is in the truck, so i used my phone...
Click the image to open in full size.

Dont say I told ya so

__________________
SHUT UP AND WHEEL.

My 99 Tacoma Single Cab build. Now on full width Toyota axles. SAS Thread
scuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 05:21 AM   #13
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Just Learning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Greeley Colorado
Posts: 746
wow good write up and with pics is the way to go showing the parts and work like you did was outstanding, it really helped my daughter see what is in the hub when i have her lock them
Just Learning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 05:31 AM   #14
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Before on Rick R's 1998 T100 SR5 4x4 Extra cab Auto
Click the image to open in full size.

After some of my rebuilt Aisins
Click the image to open in full size.


Last edited by waskillywabbit; 11-09-2008 at 05:32 AM.
waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 05:36 AM   #15
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Just Learning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Greeley Colorado
Posts: 746
wabfab were did you get those hub covers those are clean looking
Just Learning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 05:46 AM   #16
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (-1)
 
waskillywabbit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Learning View Post
wabfab were did you get those hub covers those are clean looking
Factory hub cover with the center cut out I believe.

waskillywabbit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 06:06 AM   #17
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Flash319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
Posts: 1,581
if you live anywhere cold you will know the problems of to much grease. In Canadian winter, -30C try turning a hub with lots of grease with snow gloves on..............

I don't think you used to much though. To much is when it is packed like a wheel bearing.
__________________
95 22re extra cab, custom box, 4:56, 31inch tires, electric fan, Flat black paint, 4 runner buckets and mirrors


WANTED: 1st Gen Pickup 4x4 project.
Flash319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2008, 06:46 PM   #18
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
BoostinChick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Abington, PA
Posts: 735
I am bookmarking this thank you so much for a picture detailed write up. You should post this over in the staging area of the tech section if there isn't a write up on this already.
__________________
1994 4Runner SR5 3VZE (Auto) - TOTALED | R.I.P
BoostinChick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2008, 08:23 PM   #19
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Volcom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,200
VolcomCO
Nice writeup and pictures.

Here's another source that I used when I rebuilt my hubs. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281879

It shows the exact placement of the springs in the clutch gear and pawl which is crictical when putting them back together.
__________________
1984 Toyota 4Runner
EFI swap
TG 4" springs
Marlin Crawler Dual Ultimate Crawler
39.5" Iroks
Addicted Off Road 8 point cage
Addicted Off Road front bumper

Addicted Off Road

My 4 wheel drive club
http://www.rockfrogs.org

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTCO
If you build an F-Toy it better be the Toyota motor home class, because your going to be living in it! Your wife would kill you if took on that big of a project!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTCO
He just wants to make sure red line is still there!
Volcom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2008, 09:10 PM   #20
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
Threadstarter [OP]
 
space-junk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wilton, CA
Posts: 4,491
thank you very much for the link! i was not aware that the tension spring had to ride on the fowler pawl/clutch assebly like that... i shall tear into it again tomorrow... besides, somehow both the gold bolts were broken in the CV shafts, so im going by toyota tomorrow to pick those up...

i will edit my writeup with more pics and my redo of the fowler pawl/clutch tension spring...

also thinking about linking my aisin hubs folder in my photobucket account here so whoever needs it has access to ALL of my pictures...
__________________
1995.5 Tacoma SX
Build Thread - a few mods - SOLD :(

1987 Turbo 4Runner
Build Thread

LCE*Crackaway Racing Engines*Hi Lift*175K
Rebuild in progress...

1990 4Runner SR5 - Sold :(

space-junk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2008, 09:10 PM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
93, aisin, brake, clean, cleaner, hammertone, hilux, hub, hubs, locking, parts, rustoleum, samurai, suzuki, teardown, toyota

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Does/did Suzuki use the same aisin locking hubs a4runnerfreak 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 5 07-31-2008 10:30 AM
Aisin SFA / Aisin IFS Locking hubs LUV24BY 84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 9 07-03-2007 07:52 AM
86-95 aisin manual locking hubs freshman The Classifieds GraveYard 8 06-19-2006 10:48 AM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:41 AM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.