BoostinChick

So I was replacing my power steering pump today and I found out why it was leaking...apparently my Air Control Valve broke.



I searched all my local places (Advanced Auto, PepBoys, AutoZone), none carry it. They said I might have to eat it and go to the stealership. Just seeing if anyone else has run into my issue and can let me know where they went that had a decent price.

anotherjeff

You really should complete your profile/signature info. Location is all-important when asking about parts.

This piece is a good candidate for harvesting during a stroll thru the pick-n-pull garden. The same part is used on a wide variety of Toyota trucks and sedans.

BoostinChick

Better?

BoostinChick

Did some reading and searching, also a lot of help from Brenjen, looks like I am going to block this piece off. If anyone needs pictures/tutorial I will do that only if there is interest.

Chalk another one up for YT!

iamsuperbleeder

Just what I was about to say... just block it off with a pipe nut (Advance Auto Parts carries brass ones behind the counter in a big black been). Bring the valve in so you can size up the threads though. Then just block off the vaccum lines and your set.

I'd just do it temporarily till you get ahold of another valve. It's not really nessisary for the running of the truck; just kicks up the RPMs a bit when turning the wheel and a load is put on the PS pump.

BoostinChick

From my understanding turning the steering wheel all the way to lock and holding it puts so much load on the PS pump that it may blow the seals if held that way? I have read others just blocking it off and forgetting about it (not replacing it) even when they wheel. I am not one for shortcuts but more for solutions.

iamsuperbleeder

Even if that were the case (which IMO doesn't sound true), that valve doesn't have anything to do with turning the wheel to full lock either way.

I'm not a PS system expert by any means, but it just seems that if simply turning the wheel to full lock and holding it there with pressure applied would blow seals, a lot of guys crawling their rigs and having half the trucks weight on a tire while turning against it, all with the stock steering gearbox and PS pump, would have a lot, and I mean a LOT of problems and busted up PS pumps... thus leading me to believe that whoever told you that is either making it up, or was misinformed himself...

BoostinChick

Yes, I have read that that valve only does what you state above. I am not PS expert either so whatever I read/am told I just regurtitate. My biggest concern was (since it's such a PITA to get to) that I would only have to do this once (unless another PS pump blows out on me again).

iamsuperbleeder

Well, blocking it off isn't going to harm the PS pump at all.

After re-reading your first post, I have a new option for you.

That valve shouldn't be leaking anyfluid at all from the ports on it, even the broken off port. If it is, then yes it's defenately internally broken, which is EXTREMELY rare to have happen; if it were to leak through there on a running truck, it would suck PS fluid into the intake. Anyways, what I'm getting at it to temporarily plug the hole, instead of going out and getting a pipe plug, just thread in and tighten that old valve into the PS pump for the time being till you find a new one. Block off the vaccume hoses up on the intake manifold and idle-up valve; don't just loop them over; you'll idle about 500-600 RPMs higher... constantly; that's pretty much what that valve is designed to do; as the PS pump puts a load on the motor, it inscreases the RPMs slightly to make up for the strain on the motor.

If you have the 22re, the valve is easy to get to; it faces straight up; if you have the 3.0, couldn't tell ya how it's orientated .

Simple fact is your not going to harm your new PS pump with that valve not hooked up or not working properly (you're PS pumpe leak was just coencedence IMO). In the picture you supplied, if I'm not mistaken, the "Flow Control Valve" is what cuts the pressure if too much is applies... correct me if I'm wrong some one...

Brenjen

Well, I was asked through PM about this & I answered as best I could.

I'll summarize again here - the valve ups the RPM's on the motor when you steer hard left or right like when you are are full lock, that puts a load on the motor & the vacuum valve is designed to keep the engine from bogging down & possibly dying. (same as wheels stopped, in a bind etc.)

As far as holding the steering at full lock not being bad for the seals; have you ever changed a seal in a steering sector? Know how you get the seal out? By holding the wheel at full lock; it'll blow the seal right out. Trust me, it's not good to hold a steering wheel at full lock for more than a second or two.

EDIT: as was already said above; the fluid will not leak out of the broken end of the valve unless the valve is broken on the inside.

iamsuperbleeder

good info Brenjen; I didn't really think that it would cause any major harm, but then again like I said, I'm not a PS expert

Moto260

I'm glad I found this because I didn't hook one up on my 3.4 swap cause my p/s pump didn't come with it. Now she won't start and that's the only thing I'm missing. Maybe ill get lucky and she'll start with that >.<

scope103

Oh fer cryin' out loud -- just fix it! An entire rebuilt PS pump is $60 http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search, and at least when I got one 8 years ago it came with the correct idle-up valve.

Yes, you can put a "patch" on it by blocking off the valve, but you'll also need to raise the idle to keep the truck from dying every time you parallel park. Up to you.

Moto260: did you just leave the vacuum lines hanging? I wouldn't expect it to start or run if partially assembled. But if you're experienced enough to shoe-horn in a 3.4, I would guess you already know that.

Moto260

No mechanic but yes I got the 3.4 put in my 88 runner. All the lines are hooked up but this one. . It was capped before I tried to start her up. Then she wouldn't crank so I pulled it off and posted it on my thread. They said its my idle-up air control valve to my p/s pump. I got the pump but no where to connect that one, along with a plug. I think the salvage yard just screwed me out of that piece. Everything else looks good

Moto260

And I worded that wrong. She cranks. Cranks and cranks just won't start. She wants to though

elaketiger

Is this part really over $100? Can someone provide the part number and also, is a Dorman product okay for this?


Thanks,

ShadowKing13

Thanks Everyone. I think this is my issue with my 91.. I replaced everything on my power steering except this valve and nothing. Couldn’t figure out why my PS fluid was disappearing extremely quickly with no signs of leaks, and any she started billowing out whitish smoke lIke crazy, especially at higher revs. Because of you guys, I ordered a new Air Control Valve and hopefully it fixes the problem.