Air condition question
#2
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Discharge. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3systemco.pdf
Do you have all the equipment to do the refrigerant recovery, the air evacuation, and the recharge? Is there any point to replacing the pressure lines yourself if you don't have the equipment?
Do you have all the equipment to do the refrigerant recovery, the air evacuation, and the recharge? Is there any point to replacing the pressure lines yourself if you don't have the equipment?
#3
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The discharge line is also called the high-side, the suction line is also called the low-side. They are called that way because of the pressures inside the lines.
#4
Discharge. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3systemco.pdf Do you have all the equipment to do the refrigerant recovery, the air evacuation, and the recharge? Is there any point to replacing the pressure lines yourself if you don't have the equipment?
#5
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Have your mechanic do a leak down test before using the refrigirant. That R12 is getting harder to come by. I am surprised that you being in California that your mechanic would even touch it. It may still be legal for him to install it but the government is trying to get rid of it. Wish I had some R12 for myself.
#6
Have your mechanic do a leak down test before using the refrigirant. That R12 is getting harder to come by. I am surprised that you being in California that your mechanic would even touch it. It may still be legal for him to install it but the government is trying to get rid of it. Wish I had some R12 for myself.
#7
Not that low key on a forum though
Let's be factual though, the 134A stuff is a bit cheaper and works excellent in this things. It takes only two parts totaling $6 to 'convert' and all of 3 minutes to install those parts. So, what's the whole big deal using R12? My AC blows cold as hell with 134a, you'll be fine as well.
Let's be factual though, the 134A stuff is a bit cheaper and works excellent in this things. It takes only two parts totaling $6 to 'convert' and all of 3 minutes to install those parts. So, what's the whole big deal using R12? My AC blows cold as hell with 134a, you'll be fine as well.
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#8
Not that low key on a forum though Let's be factual though, the 134A stuff is a bit cheaper and works excellent in this things. It takes only two parts totaling $6 to 'convert' and all of 3 minutes to install those parts. So, what's the whole big deal using R12? My AC blows cold as hell with 134a, you'll be fine as well.
#9
Pic below is all you need for the 'conversion' .. Autoparts store have them. You need to pay for the rest of the service as you otherwise would. Evacuate the system, this is very important, refill with the exact right amount of new refrigerant. Some places quoted me $80, some $120, but I made a deal with one shop that he has to fill it and re-fill for free once the leak was found. I paid him $220 and we did find the leak, same hose as yours.
#10
Ok as far as replacing the discharge hose , do I just unbolt it from the compressor and from the condenser and connect the new one up and pump the refrigerant ? It has a big Hugh leak so I know there is no pressure in the system or must I have the system vacuumed first then disconnect hose or vacuumed after hose replacement then pump refrigerant in ? Or no need to have system vacuumed since the hugh leak ??? Just replace hose and pump in refrigerant ?
#12
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The $240 should include a new Receiver drier (aka filter drier on some parts sites), flushing the lines, replacing the O-rings with HNBR (green) o-rings, and sometimes a new Expansion Valve along with the conversion fitting adapters.
Since you have it apart I'd recommend replacing the receiver drier since it is a cheap part that's easy to replace and keeps moisture from causing corrosion inside your A/C system. Napa has one for about $14. If you do, DO NOT replace it or even remove the seal until right before you take it to your mechanic or the desiccant will load up with moisture from your open system, which is the reason it should be replaced anyway.
That being said, I also converted mine to R134a with the $6 service port adapter kit and it provided cold air for a number of years until one of the o-rings went bad. The A/C didn't work when I bought it.
About a month ago I replaced as many o-rings as I could without tearing out my dash, flushed the lines, put in some fresh oil with a UV additive, put a vacuum pump on it to evacuate all the air and moisture out, and made sure it held a vacuum for at least 15 minutes before I was sure the leak was fixed. Then I charged it with freon and have had cold air since.
Edit: Looks like the filter dryer is going to be around $17 from NAPA in your area.
Since you have it apart I'd recommend replacing the receiver drier since it is a cheap part that's easy to replace and keeps moisture from causing corrosion inside your A/C system. Napa has one for about $14. If you do, DO NOT replace it or even remove the seal until right before you take it to your mechanic or the desiccant will load up with moisture from your open system, which is the reason it should be replaced anyway.
That being said, I also converted mine to R134a with the $6 service port adapter kit and it provided cold air for a number of years until one of the o-rings went bad. The A/C didn't work when I bought it.
About a month ago I replaced as many o-rings as I could without tearing out my dash, flushed the lines, put in some fresh oil with a UV additive, put a vacuum pump on it to evacuate all the air and moisture out, and made sure it held a vacuum for at least 15 minutes before I was sure the leak was fixed. Then I charged it with freon and have had cold air since.
Edit: Looks like the filter dryer is going to be around $17 from NAPA in your area.
Last edited by nv4runner; 07-31-2014 at 08:47 PM. Reason: Updated parts price
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