Da Tow'd

Howdy Gang,
1987 22re flooding running rich-
So we installed new fuel pressure regulator and rebuilt injectors- checked the cold start
I hunted around and found out how to do the AFM testing.
all my number check out doing the Dynamic testing except the last test.

Reading the resistance while the air vane is moved

it should read between 20-1000 ohms
I'm getting .63 ohms

that .63 ohm means 63% of one ohm- does that sound correct?

Does the .63 ohm mean the AFM is shot and no where near the 20 to 1000ohm it should read


thanks
hank

MudHippy

I have no idea what you're doing, but I suspect you're doing it wrong.

The specs for the VAFM are:

E2 - VS
20 - 400 Ω

E2 - VC
100 - 300 Ω

E2 - VB
200 - 400 Ω

E2 - THA
10 - 20 kΩ @ -20°C(-4°F)
4 - 7 kΩ @ 0°C(32°F)
2 - 3 kΩ @ 20°C(68°F)
.9 - 1.3 kΩ @ 40°C(104°F)
.4 - .7 kΩ @ 60°C(140°F)

E1 - FC
∞ Ω

E1 - FC
∞ Ω measuring plate fully closed
0 Ω measuring plate other than closed position

E2 - VS
20 - 400 Ω measuring plate fully closed
20 - 1200 Ω measuring plate fully open <--Is this what you're refering to???

BTW, what is Dynamic testing of an AFM? Do you mean Diagnostic testing perhaps? And along those lines, have you checked for diagnostic trouble codes? Or are you just purposely trying to find the problem the hard way?

Da Tow'd

The tests were for 22re AFM Static testing all passed
For the Dynamic Testing ( moving the vane)
first tests turned out OK readings
the second test Closed to Open resistance test
closed it was 293 ohm( in the ball park reading)
but Closed to Open I only got .63 ohm--(Not in the ball park)

E2 - VS

20 - 400 Ω measuring plate fully closed
20 - 1200 Ω measuring plate fully open <--Is this what you're refering to???
yes but we get only .63 ohm at the max opening

check engine light is on
I've been searching here and lots of other sites
I'd like to make easy but I'm a slow learner
thanks for the reply
hank

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

It could just need sprayed with something like "TV tuner cleaner", or it could be worn out. In theory it could be repaired with a conductive resistive ink but the application wouldn't be generally recommended. The link at the end of this post describes it in way more detail than most people would care to know

It might be faulty but it could be you, no offense I don't actually know anybody with enough hands to do this test. Using clip leads on the meter makes it alot simpler and avoids errors in the test from the probes moving around.

The FSM has this text
What that means is each progressive step in the opening should be higher than the one before it. Like the graph in the botom of this post.

Da Tow'd

I got the electrical plug off a junk yard Toyota truck that was the same year and used it instead of trying to hold the probes and move the vane at the same time.

Co_94_PU thanks for that link I'll check it with the AFM on the truck
cheers
hank