Bridger5228

So, I have an 89 with a 22RE/5 spd. 150k. I added a 3" aluminum short ram intake with a cone filter and had the exhaust re-done. 2.5 inch from where the cat. used to be into a 2.5 inch Flowmaster 40 series. I figured from what I gathered online that I could go 1 tooth richer on my AFM. I did that last nite and my truck ran rough between 12-1600 RPM's. So...I guess my mixture is good at stock specs still? Also, the screw on the top of the throttle body is just an idle speed screw right???

874runnersr5

Correct, that is the idle set screw.

dark_fairytales

you should adjust it just like a carburetor. get it set to run as lean as possable then move it up one notch to be safe.

Ive been messing with mine for some time. im sure you should trying to lean it.

myyota

How do you know if you go to lean ?, will the engine start pinging under load if you go to lean ?.

Nashman00

the hole theory on afm adjustment will not really net you more power but if you do it right it can give you more power

there is 2 adjustments on the afm
1 is the tooth wheel the other is the air bye pass

factory the truck will run ok at ideal but at wot it will run ratio of about 10 flat

so now you ask why and hwo cna i get more power out of this bugger

well teh answer is this drill out the adjustment crew ont he afm and start to back the screw out this will let in more un meter air give you more air to go with your added fuel

and let say if you go lean now you can bump the by 1 thooth

all in all you have to adjust both to make it work right to gain more power

then ajsut you thottle body air screw to sort out your ideal rpm

i recomned you mark every thing and get spare afm before trying this as well

laskt9

^^ there were so many typing errors in that post i died a little inside reading it ^^

and myyota: it will miss and seem like its cutting cylinders under load, also when you stomp the throttle it will hesitate.

its dangerous to run too lean because the temp in the combustion chamber will rise and could cause some serious damage

abecedarian

So in other words....
You don't understand how the VAFM works.
You don't understand that the ECU has "learned" compensation for fuel delivery.
You don't understand that adjusting the sensor that says how much air gets into the engine will change how much fuel the engine needs.
You don't understand that the O2 sensor will override most every adjustment you make.

And you don't understand why it runs odd?

WatsonToyota

Very nice Abe
sure, i DO understand these vehicles are a hobby and/or lifestyle for most but if you want more "power" get a bigger toy

Nashman00

you talking to me ?

mt_goat

iamsuperbleeder

To quote Ted from engnbldr:


"You should need no AFM adjustments, this is very rare that we see that
required."

"We found from testing that the AFM can easily compensate, the conditions where it cannot either have other massive mods, or something else is wrong.
The best we have been able to do and still keep the engine street drivable is about 85% of capacity, so there should normally be no changes required."



Basically, even after a .30 bore, a head with oversized valves, a steeper cam, AND a header and cat-back kit, for me, adjusting the AFM is still pointless, and it will be for any body else, unless you're doing some CRAZY mods to the little 22re... like forced induction... but then you other other problems to worry about too

Bridger5228

Ok, so by the sounds of it, I need to leave my AFM alone even after I do the cam and header? (ENGNBLDR 261, OBX header)

annoyingrob

O2 will only correct for idle and cruise. The stock sensor is only sensitive at stoichiometric A/F ratio (14.7:1). Past that, the ECU only knows RICH, and LEAN. The ECU will only correct at idle and cruise because these are the only two points where the motor should be running this A/F ratio. The ECU WILL NOT correct fueling at any other time, because it simply does not know how much to correct by.

abecedarian

Why is it so hard to explain why a cam needs a carb re-jetted, air bleeds changed, etc., yet people don't think a cam will effect EFI?

iamsuperbleeder

I thought one of the benifets of EFI is that it's adaptive? (to an extent obviously) Or are the 22re ECU's too primative for that

abecedarian

The 22re's EFI can adapt to conditions that affect the engine. When the ECU was programmed, the cam, throttle position, air flow, etc, were read and translated into "maps".
If the engine's physical characteristics change, the ECU will try to adapt, within reason, but if the compression ratio or cam has changed, it doesn't have any programming to adapt to that.

iamsuperbleeder

aaaahhhhh, very good point there abe


it's like installing new hardware in a computer and not changing the drivers the computer doesn't know WHAT it's working with

abecedarian

Sorry for going a little tangenital but...
... advanced EFI cars have problems going from straight gas to ethanol blends, and that's just changing the fuel. And people expect our archaic, not even OBDI system to work and adapt.

annoyingrob

Sorry if this is going off-topic, but how would a compression ratio change be an issue? Aside from timing, which can be adjusted externally to compensate, it doesn't really matter if the CR is 6:1, or 10:1, the amount of fuel required is the same. There's the same mass of air in the cylinder.

Yeah, a CR change would make the existing timing maps non-optimal, but like I said, that can be tweaked externally to bring it pretty close to optimal, and the ECU will be none the wiser.

polycrack

I tryed to adj the idle a/f set scew on the air meter with my wideband hooked up. it was just rich of 14.7:1 tryed 2 turns up and 2 turns down. seam that the o2 sensor just corrects for the added air by providing more fuel. I will try again w the o2 sensor unpluged but i guess its useless if it will be corrected when the o2 is pluged back in. havn't tryed to adj the wheel yet, don't want to mess it up. also I think this 270/430 cam is off cuz i have no adj cam gear.,