OSIRIS

This is from my post on Ultimateyota.com. Just want to get a response on some opinions/advice. There's a lot of good info over there, but it seems new and not as many people get on there. Couple of jumpers from here to there and vice versa.

I have never jumped into the 4 wheel foray seriously. Just kept up with and worked on my Z-cars (Datsun/Nissan, not redneck Z-28 ) They are down in SC and now I need another project so why not the DD 4Runner!

It would be fun for my son and I to do it together and if I have a 4 wheeler, you might as well jack that mother up and use it like you own it, brother!!!!

regarding Pirate4X4.com - I was there for a minute and 4X4wire or something, but it just seemed YotaTech.com was much better and then I found this place last week. These two definitely seem to be the best technically as far as advice and knowledge.

My upgrades will be the following:
Intake
4 wire Alternator power upgrade
Headers (powdercoated) - Downey the best? chime in...
lift (springs & shocks upfront) need advice...
(shackles or springs & shock for rear) need advice again...
wheels - stick with stock or look for another set??? chime in...
Tires - I have 31.5" (stock), maybe 33-36" would be good. This is my DD as well. Obviously I want to have tires to match the rim size. I think my stockers are 15"s.

Do they make 3" lifts using springs & shocks? That would get me 3+0.75= 3.75" under belly add'l clearance, but only 0.75 add'l under rear axle with 33's. I don't know where the cut-off is before you start getting into too much special fabbing. Don't want to go there.

I'll do a 3.4 swap when this motor goes kablaamo, but hopefully that will be a long time away.

Appreciate your input.

Osiris

Elvota

What are the specs on your 4Runner?

Year, motor, tranny... etc.

Jay351

What year 4runner?

Im assuming its a 2nd gen so it wont have rear leafs, it will have springs so no shackle would work for lift.

You could go with a 1.5" balljoint spacer and minor t-bar crank for about 2" total lift and 1.5" of added suspension travel
and you could get new rear coils and spacers to make that 2" of lift.

You can also add a 1-3" body lift to that for added clearance, you could run possibly skinny 35" tires with that combo. If you do go up to a 35" tire you will want to re-gear or your truck will become VERY slow. ( 5.29 gears would work best with 35" tires. 4.88 gears with 33" tires)

As for performance? I assume you have the 3.0 as you are talking about swapping a 3.4L in the future.

I would try out the "weazy2k cams Aka johnny", a full 2.25" exhaust with hiflo cat and muffler. As for headers, they have mixed opinions, some people like them, some don't. Don't expect major power from them and them only. Also I have heard that the downey headers like to heat up the engine bay quite a bit.

OSIRIS

Sorry. '95 V6 3.0 Auto tranny

MMA_Alex

you have 31.5's stock? those would say 32 by whatever. I believe the biggest stock tires these years came with were 31's (30.5ish actual)

keithguts

What Year Runner ?????

MMA_Alex

good question lol. im assuming its somewhere in the 86-95 range...

OSIRIS

Thx. yeah, '95 v6 3.0 Auto tranny 4WD.

I could just go look at the thing and see if has or doesn't have leafs, but I work in the day time and kids take up the night so I just haven't had the time to look at it myself to learn hands on about my truck like I did with my Z's. That will change over time going forward.

Can't I get new springs and shocks to get lift instead of spacers? It may help out my slight rear end hang, too, no? Should I go 2" up front and then 3" in the rear to get a slight rear end rise when empty, but level under load?

What is "crankin' the T-bar"? Is that the torsion bar? I won't have change if I lift 2-3"?

I don't want to get a bodylift because doesn't that just lift the body up from the frame? I still would have clearance issues as of the bottom of the frame,tranny & rear axle, no? Am I confusing the definition of "bodylift"?

I will use this as my DD as well, so as I read elsewhere, I think I will stick with 33s as my highest wheel size because I think the bigger tires will need more space and upgrades that would hamper my drivability.

I am going to powdercoat the headers to (hopefully) help with heat disapation
in the engine bay. I plan on getting the air intake replacement that was done on here (I'd have to look for it). Universal kit from Advance for $50 or so and cone filter and headers/full exhaust. My question is: Will the computer adjust for the change in air flow and monkey with the fuel to change any possible gains by putting this on? Will I need to adjust the ECU or can it be done? Weazy2KCams, eh. Maybe I'll throw them in there too.

Thanks,
Osiris

OSIRIS

yep. see just above your original post.

OSIRIS

see two posts above your original post.

'95 v6 3.0 auto tranny 4X4.

OSIRIS

just check'd. 31's. I thougth they had an extra half inch, but whatever.

Everybody can use an extra half inch, right...

Osiris

MMA_Alex

the rear end can be done with springs yes, or just spacers for the springs.

the front end is a little different. if you take a look at it theres no coils as it is a torsion bar setup. the torsion bar adjusts the ride height. you can crank the torsion bar tighter to gain lift, but it maxes out at a little over 2", and anything over about 1.5" really messes with the alignment, and the ride quality.

There are a few other options in the front, the most popular of which is a ball joint spacer. do a search and you'll find a ton of info on those.

Body lifts do just lift the body off the frame, but the idea is just to get extra clearance for bigger tires. its the tires that gain you groundclearance. the lowest part on your truck is going to be the rear diff, and for each 1" larger tire you get about 1/2" of extra ground clearance.

edit: if they say 31" theyre probably 30.5" diameter actual. Supposedly people can fit 33x10.5's under these year runners without any rubbing issues, but i know on my p/u i rubbed at stock height with my 32x11.5's

91TPU

hahaha...

Jay351

Thats what she said.


Oh if you do plan on getting bigger tires, disregard what I said about gears, since you have an auto you will want the next step up.

I.E 5.29's for 33" tires and the dreaded 5.71 for 35" tires.

Also if you do plan on cranking the t-bars you will want to swap over to manual hubs (if you don't run them already) to save wear on your cv-joints.

tc

Simple:

1. Armor. Sliders, skids, bumpers in that order.
2. Tires - 33x10.50 on the stock rims when your current tires wear out
3. Gears/lockers - 5.71 gears, you need to research the locker options

This will take you just about anywhere you want to go with a truck you care what it looks like.

GV27

I was just going to ask you that question - where's the armor and locker? That's where to start.

OSIRIS

TC -

I plan on getting armor soon.

I was just going to keep my side steps, but I do like the look of the skids better and if there is a reason for it to be there, then I will get it. It has to have a purpose. I may try to make it look good, but I'm not going to stick something on just for looks.

You didn't mention any lift or springs. Why not? Because I mentioned it?

After reading more and more, I think I may do 1/2 BJ lift and up to 1" on T-Bar. Should hopefully give me lock to lock clearance with 33X10.5s as you suggest.

I think I am going to do 2.5"-3" on rear. Gets rid of my rear end sag and raises it on empty load and helps with level travel on load.



as far as lockers. Maybe I'll do that after I ruin the CV boots or front end, but definitely later if necessary. I thought I had auto-lockers, but after reading, the front end is always engaged and only the front diff gets engaged/disengaged, so they are not auto-lockers. I had auto lockers on my Isuzu and had to back up to engage the front hubs and then drive on in 4WD and after you take it out, you do the same thing to unlock them. No worries, keeping the front end only mildly jacked will hopefully keep from having any problems.

Thanks,
Osiris

yotasavg

TC didn't mention any lift because you don't need any to run 33/10.5's.

also if you're doing a BJ lift, it's going to be 1.5". ditch the t-bar crank, it will just cancel out the BJ spacers.

next. in the rear, the downey or OME 1.5" lift springs will raise you that much from STOCK. when i put in my OME spring i got about 4" of lift. corrects for sag and then above stock too.

hope it all works out. check this combo out: http://trdparts4u.com/MC-CACJ-BBHG.aspx

Brenjen

The Sliders have a purpose, they aren't just for looks. They keep rocks & stumps from screwing up your vehicle while wheeling; running boards (or side steps if you prefer) will not. They will just crumple & add to the damage a rock or stump will do.

The lockers they are referring to are not what you are referring to. They are talking about differential lockers so you will have true 4 X 4 & not the 4 x 2 these have stock. If you get into a situation where you are stuffing a rear wheel & lifting a front wheel you will see what the lockers are for. Search for Detroit EZ locker or Powertrax lockers & you'll get a better idea of what they do (think posi-track).

Armor up for sure.

The lift is one of those things that it just depends on personal preferences & what you want to do with the lift/tire combination. You can do Downey or OME springs & get a couple inches or you could just go Napa heavy duty & level it out. Look at some of the images on this site & pay attention to the before & afters & what they used to achieve the end result.

That's my .02, ymmv

86Original

I second what TC said, if you're looking to wheel. If you want looks, lift it, and forget about lockers and armor. Just remember the wider and taller the tire the more inertia to overcome when starting or stopping, requiring more power to start or stop. I'd recommend the 33x9.50x15 (39lbs ea) for wheeling or a 235/85/16 (47 lbs ea) as opposed to a 33 or 35 x12.50 weigh 52-53lbs each.