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Old 08-16-2013, 08:05 AM
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Advice for new guy

Hey guys,

New guy here looking to buy an 89 toyota pickup. It has the 3.0l and is 4x4. It has 256k miles and looks clean. Would like to now what to look for and if its a good buy at 3500. I am a prior jeep guy and am mechanically inclined just want to know some secrets and tips in what to look for. Any help would be awesome! Thanks
Old 08-16-2013, 08:38 AM
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At that age, the frame is going to be your first concern. Yota's are notorious for frame rot.
You've come to the right place if you like to work on your own stuff. Great people, great rigs. I like to add to my knowledge base by browsing posts specific to my model year. Also a recovering jeeper-welcome to the dark side.
Old 08-16-2013, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Notransitory128
Hey guys,

New guy here looking to buy an 89 toyota pickup. It has the 3.0l and is 4x4. It has 256k miles and looks clean. Would like to now what to look for and if its a good buy at 3500. I am a prior jeep guy and am mechanically inclined just want to know some secrets and tips in what to look for. Any help would be awesome! Thanks
The 3.0 is notorious for blown head gaskets. It would be nice to know that the PO had them replaced during the recall. Otherwise it could be a ticking time bomb. Not every truck with the 3.0 will blow head gaskets, but it's not worth taking a chance.

Also, see if it has the original timing belt. At 256k miles, it definitely needs to be replaced.

Other than that, just check for worn suspension components, frame rust, body rust...stuff like that.
Old 08-16-2013, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by uncleblues
At that age, the frame is going to be your first concern. Yota's are notorious for frame rot.
You've come to the right place if you like to work on your own stuff. Great people, great rigs. I like to add to my knowledge base by browsing posts specific to my model year. Also a recovering jeeper-welcome to the dark side.
The older Toyota's are/were not notorious for framerot. The only framerot issues where with the 95.5 and up Tacoma's, and I THINK the early 2000's Tundra. The older pickup frames were solid, but the rust issues really depend on where you live.

OP, there is a 800 number in the stickie's on the top of this forum you can call and check if your truck's year and VIN falls under the head gasket and steering rod relay recall. Check the fluids and all the normal stuff. Ask if you can test the 4WD on a dirt road. Do not engage 4low on pavement.....just a few things.....

And WELCOME to Yotatech!
Old 08-16-2013, 11:36 AM
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Personally, unless the truck is in mint shape with all maintenance caught up, I would say that $3500 is too much. I paid $500 less for mine last year with 80,000 fewer miles. However, I have to put quite a bit into it to bring it back up to good shape (timing belt, shocks, cv axles, brakes, balljoints, etc).
Old 08-16-2013, 02:55 PM
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Red face

no telling what it might be worth these things have a regional market .

It is like buying any used vehicle.

Just look at things that stand out like that big puddle of coolant on the passenger floor .

open the hood and a badger looks back at you.

does it look well maintained or like it was in the war.

Where you live does it have the current inspection stickers etc.

If your anywhere in the great liquid brine belt look at fuel lines brake lines yes these frames do rust just normal age and winter chemical damage.

It all comes down to just how bad you think you need this truck

no doubt it will need some kind of work

Welcome to the light side of the Force!!
Old 08-16-2013, 03:24 PM
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Where are you located? Anywhere near the southern border or even in the Pacific NW, that # is pretty fair, provided the vehicle has been well maintained and has tires with a couple more years' tread left on them.

The 89 tech is slightly different than newer 3vze's, but the good news is that if you're mechanically inclined, the 3.0 3vze to 3.4 5vzfe is within reach.

From my perspective, the big things would be an engine you can get however many miles/time you need between now and an engine swap. Mike sure the frame is in good shape. Body too. Especially pay attention to fender and bed rust. Make sure your suspension is decent (rear springs most definitely should have been replaced by now -- though nifty, the Zuk mod isn't ideal). Make sure your driveshafts and transfer are in good shape. Hopefully it has free wheeling hubs. See when the last brake job/wheel bearing grease job was done. See if your front axles are Toyota originals with new boots or cheap aftermarket. Find out what gears are in the diffs. 4.56+ is ideal for anything over stock tire size. Find out when last fuel filter change was done and other similar general maintenance items that show just the basics vs full service attention, etc. Check for leaks in diffs, transfer, tranny, and engine. Etc. And obviously major services done recently enough to get you through your timeframe to 3.4 swap. Find the factory service manual online and check off/review the dates of what 30k and 60k services have or haven't been done w/ the owner when looking at the rig.

But yes, definitely check maintenance records and have a trusted Toyota mechanic look it over too. Inquire as to what fluids have been replaced/when and what they used to replace them (synthetics typically showing better care than non). Check that they actually grease the driveshafts.

Last edited by RSR; 08-16-2013 at 03:28 PM.
Old 08-16-2013, 03:29 PM
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P.S. This has some good 3vze threads linked: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post52106441
Old 08-16-2013, 03:55 PM
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I completely agree about the regional variation in price. However, I am in So. Cal and my truck is pretty much rust-free, so figured it would be on the high end here.
Old 08-16-2013, 04:28 PM
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Wow. Then you got bargin! (It'd makes sense for a 2wd standard cab, but that seems very good for a 4x4 w/ xtra cab). I happily paid 1.5x that for mine w/ 140k miles. The owner had just put $1500 into the A/C system, timing belts and other major service, so $500 over blue book, I gladly paid. And it was only about $500 off of what others were charging for similar condition standard cabs without the SR5 package and whatnot in this area too.

I also think that maybe the 3vze isn't as desirable to folks that like to export these trucks down to Mexico and Central America that pay $500 to $1000 over blue book all day long here in Texas...

Last edited by RSR; 08-16-2013 at 04:29 PM.
Old 08-16-2013, 04:41 PM
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Also, you'll hopefully have the stronger r150 manual or a340 auto tranny on it too. And look at your diff gearing #s too if wanting to play w/ tire sizes, etc. Basically, start with where you want to be and then work your way forward. If you want 4wd, don't try to convert a 2wd to 4 as it's too costly. Same goes w/ suff like diffs and trannies that can save you big $ if getting them right on the front end/waiting for the right truck.
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