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Advice for 87 pickup that's been sitting for 7 years

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Old 10-01-2009, 10:09 AM
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Advice for 87 pickup that's been sitting for 7 years

I have an 87 4X4 pickup that lost a gear in 2002 and I parked it at my Dad's house where it sat idle for about 4 years. He finally got tired of looking at it and asked me to move it. I got the tranny fixed, but when I tried to drive it, the engine was running very poorly and it had no power. I limped it over to my brother's house with the intention of having some engine work done, but it managed to sit for another 3 years until his wife decided she was tired of looking at it. That was just last week.
I started making plans to sell it, but after learning that I likely wouldn't even get close $1000 for it in its present condition, I think I'm going to get that engine work
done and keep it.
Before the tranny went bad, the engine was running decently, though during the last few months of driving it, I was getting a decent amount of smoke from the tailpipe.
After sitting for three years it was barely driveable. It has a 22R engine, so I suspect carburetor issues.
I don't have the time or knowledge to do the work myself, so I am going to have it towed to a shop.
Finally, the question:
What do you suggest I have the shop do for a vehicle that has been sitting so long?
I plan on buying a rebuilt carb from nationalcarburetors.com and have the shop install it. Do you think it is a good idea to replace it w/o knowing for sure that it is an issue? Is sitting for 7 years bad for a carb? I got the truck in 94 with 125k miles on it. I think it has a little more than 150k now.
I'm sure they'll need to change the oil.
What else?

TIA for any advice.

Jeff
Old 10-01-2009, 10:23 AM
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Drain and flush the gas tank, oil, coolant change, run some marvel mystery oil through the fresh gas to lube the upper cylinder walls (this will help with rust that may have formed on the upper cylinders, and free stuck piston rings, and valves.) run some sea foam through the throttle body to clean it a little. Thats all i can think of right now. OOOPS I see you are getting a new carb, why not just clean the carb with sea foam, or let the marvel oil clean it while running?

Last edited by crafthorse; 10-01-2009 at 10:24 AM.
Old 10-01-2009, 10:31 AM
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Did you change the oil? When you ran it was it new or old gas? did you drain the tank? Did you change the fuel filters? Did you take the fuel intake line off and let it pump a little? Maybe some rust in the metal lines. These things could make it run good and would take maybe 3 to 4 hours for a rookie. Save yah a ton of money. Its all really simple especially if you have a factory service manual to look at.

Mine sat for about 3 years started up every month and a half to 2 months. She ran great till the headgasket started leaking on the driver side of the motor. After doing a head gasket change, I have a few bugs I need to work out. But yah. Ran like a champ before the leak.
Old 10-01-2009, 03:15 PM
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Thanks for the advice, guys. To be honest, I don't know whether the oil was changed and whether the gas was new or old or mixed. My dad got the tranny fixed and I went to his place to pick it up. I don't know what he did to get it ready to drive. If I were to guess, I'd say it was operating on old oil and mixed gas.

crafthorse,
I'm pretty sure I was having carb issues before the tranny went down. Sitting for 7 years probably makes it even worse. I don't have *any* time to do work myself, so rather than letting the shop fiddle around with the old carb, trying to find and fix a problem, I'll risk wasting $200 on a new carb.

If anyone else has any thoughts, I'd love to see them.
Thanks,
Jeff

Here's a pic.



Old 10-02-2009, 06:54 AM
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As stated by others you'll need to clean out the fuel system, change filters, change oil, etc. As far as the carb goes My advice would be to pull the carb off (4 nuts and a fuel line?) and have it rebuilt. It will be less expensive than the 200$ you're looking to spend on a new one.

Quick list of things that you can do to save yourself some money.

1) Drain all the old fuel out into a container and dispose of it properly.

2) Put in a couple gallons of new fuel along with some Marvel Mystery Oil (proper mix is listed on the MMO can I think).

3) Put an in-line fuel filter in (one of the glass ones with the white insert so you can see what is running through the system).

4) Change the oil and filter.

5) Drain and flush the cooling system, replace the anti-freeze.

6) Check the belts/hoses etc for wear and replace as needed.

7)Check the differentials/tranny/t-case fluids and either top them off or drain and refill.

8) Take a good look at the tires. Having sat that long they may have started to dry rot.

9) Once you get it up and running keep a close eye on the gauges and look for any leaks.

10) Wash it.


I'd be willing to bet that all of the above can get done on a Saturday with the exception of getting the carb rebuilt. Have that done earlier in the week.

So you'll need
Carb rebuilt $$unknown but it can't be more than 200$
Fuel 10$
MMO 7$
Fuel filter and probably some rubber fuel line if your hard lines are shot. 20$
Oil/Filter 20$
Anti-freeze 10$
Possibly some gear oil for the t-case/diffs/tranny if it is a 5 speed. 20$
Misc hoses/belts 20$

307$ +/- 20%.

I think you can do it.
Old 10-02-2009, 07:48 AM
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Haveing the carb rebuilt would be a better option than buying a new one, you could probably get good results taking the carb off and soaking it in Sea Foam a few days to eat the old varnish off, and if it works it would be cheaper than rebuilding. Just a suggestion, may be worth a try in order to save a few dollars.
Old 10-02-2009, 09:04 AM
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To all the excellent advice already given I'd add check your brake calipers - chance the pads or piston may be frozen, and check brake system for leaks - including rear wheel brake cylinders - by holding firm pressure on the pedal for a minute or so. May want to replace the flexible sections of brake hose (connected to calipers and one in rear). Flush/bleed fluid with a good DOT 4 fluid. Probably a good idea to repack front wheel bearings.

Hit all the zerks with a good lithium moly grease.

NAPA sells very good Aisin carb rebuilding kits specific to the carb, instead of universal kits that will lack some needed parts. Bring in the # from the aluminum tag on the carb to get the right kit.

May as well do a tune-up - plugs, cap/rotor, wires (if needed) & air filter. Check the timing, since you said it wasn't running well.

Fortunately, it's a Toyota you're bringing back from the brink, so you have a lot going for you. Shouldn't be too hard to get it going good.
Old 10-04-2009, 01:52 AM
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I once let my old 85 2WD (267k) 22RE sit for 2.5 years.
I drained and replaced the oil+filter, air-filter, coolant, lower radiator hose and gasoline.
I put in new plugs and checked the wires and rotor and cap.
I then put in a new battery and fired her up.
Also had to replace the dry rotted tires that had sit mostly flat but did drive on em a few weeks.
The only repercussions of the 2.5 year sitting was a few electrical problems from the critters that tried to live in it and the already slightly leaking valve seals caused the engine to smoke a little longer than they had originally, plus the truck interior smelled funky from sitting, otherwise all was fine.
Old 12-07-2009, 11:10 AM
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I know it's an old post but you really need to change the diff and trans fluids.without driving the condensation puts alot of water in these components.We have a leaf truck at the shop for the city the only time it runs is the fall.So every year we pull it in the shop a couple weeks early and start getting her ready.You should see alll the water come out of the diffs and trans.
Old 12-07-2009, 10:01 PM
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good info in here
Old 12-11-2009, 05:39 PM
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Mine sat for 3.5 years then I bought it for $250. I drove it home and changed the oil etc. drives great. Dont be surprised if fuel lines are rusted etc... Its been sitting a LONG time. Might want to check Tranny Lube Diff Lube.... Grease Everything!!! Good luck and enjoy...
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