gohawks

1988 Toyota 4Runner, Auto transmission

My e-brake doesn't hold real well on an incline. Takes a lot of clicks to tighten.

Anyone want to chime in on how to adjust?

I searched but all I found was driving in reverse and pulling up on the lever style e-brake.

Thanks as always.

marko3xl3

Why doesn't the driving in reverse and pulling up on lever style work for you?

gohawks

I don't have a lever style e brake. I have the the handle that pulls out. Do the same?

AKennedy87

yea, just get good with the pull and do it, ur $

gohawks

pull it hard a couple of times while going in reverse?

AKennedy87

yea go in reverse and pull it, but not too hard i guess cuase thast how I broke my cable i think?

What it is inside the drum is a starwheel where one way it locks and the other way it adjusts itself, kinda like teeth. So when u do this, the wheel moves in the only direction it can, and it adjusts the pads to the max it can go out to the drum

Injohneer

Get rolling in reverse, pull it. Don't jerk it, but you'll feel the resistance increasing, the further you pull.

And bring an extra arm with you... I've found it can take a LOT of pulls to get the thing to tighten up. Don't wait so long to adjust it next time!

I usually keep working on it until I can only pull it out a few inches, instead of a foot or so.

You may find your normal braking seems to work better after this, too!

gohawks

well I will have to give this a go later today, if I can find somewhere to do this!


Thanks.

farmerj

Crawl underneath in the back and just tug on the cables going into the backing plate. It will do the dame thing, just quicker.

Now as to having to actually pull the handle too far. You cables may be stretched too far and need to adjust them up. That can be fun, because if your '88 is anything like mine, they are rusted up pretty good. I have yet to be able to get mine freed up enough to adjust. So I am not going to fiddle with them any more. If I keep the ruck, I will replace it all.

For now though, I have an 01 Prizm and an 88 4Runner for sale. Getting rid of them to get a 98 4Runner.

gohawks

not sure where the "backing plate" is. What should I be looking for?

Thanks.

farmerj

the backing plate is the part you see on the back side of your tire underneath the car.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Backing plate is the back side of the drum brakes, big metal saucer shaped piece. The rear brackes are self-adjusting via application of e-brake. Adjust e-brake cable pull in the center section, just ahead of the gas tank. The e-brake is not self-adjusting, as the brake shoes wear, it takes more pull on the e-brake handle to make ti work. Adjsutment is via the threaded rod and jam nuts, just visible at the top-center of the photo below:

gohawks

Thanks for the pic Roger. Tighten that nut to adjust the slack?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Basically yes, you loosen the nuts on one side and tighten the nuts on the other side to take up the slack. Once adjusted properly, you tighten up the nuts on the back side to hold things in place. Pretty obvious once you have a look at how it all works.

gohawks

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3checksan.pdf

Like this says I presume. Thanks again fellas.

AKennedy87

Quick question Roger - why is it so damp right above where the U-jonit is? Is that okay? mine is the same way there and I was kinda worried if something was leaking or whatnot?

Thanks,
AK

UKMyers

If you get oil above the U-joint that just excessive grease that slings out after you grease them. You do grease your U-joints every 7500 miles like the it says on your visor right... Anyways just to throw out there the whole backing up and pulling on your e-brake thing is useless if your auto adjusters are froze and not working. You'd probably be better off if you have the time to pull your rear drums, inspect your pads and adjusters, clean the nasty crap out of there and put it back together. I try to do this from time to time as the brake dust, mud and everything else in there get's pretty nasty over time.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, grease flying off the u-joint (or CV joint in my case). Mine was extra greasy then since I had a problem with the CV joint hitting the crossmember and shearing off the grease fitting on one trip. Flung all the grease out of the CV and toasted it by the time I got home. I subsequently raised the crossmember for more clearance above the driveshaft:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...larCrossmember