-=j0nnyr0773n=-

I'm having some troubles locating the cause of my recent loss of power and hesitation in accelerating. Here's a list of things I've recently replaced.

Ignition Coil
TPS
Plugs
Fuel Filter
Vacuum Lines
Resealed Fuel Injectors
Removed / Cleaned Air intake manifold (new gaskets)
Throttle body cleaned (new base gasket)

My next things to check on are:

Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines
O2 Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
Catalytic Converter

Any other culprits for me to check on? Anyways, so here's a little recent history. About 2 weeks ago I decided to replace my power steering pump because I thought it might be leaking. So I did this and then my neighbor who also has a 22re came over with his timing light and we set the timing right on. The truck idles beautifully and if you give it gas while in neutral it sounds and responds great. I can hold the rpms at any level and it will not fluctuate at all. Right after we set that timing and I drove it around the block I noticed some hesitation in acceleration and basically a large loss in power. If I baby the acceleration and give it little bits of gas slowly it seems to act fine. So I started replacing stuff in the hopes it would fix my problem. It has not. Any help would be appreciated Thanks.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Did you have the timing jumper installed when setting the timing?
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

idanity

you said fuel filter, but what about air ??
and
clutch
clogged injectors
afm (potentiometer) can get worn out, how many miles on it

sounds like your doing it methodically, shouldn't take much longer

jason191918

What about the EGR?

Moonfish

I've been there! I did the thing where the timing wouldn't set when the test jumper wouldn't work because the TPS wasn't set right. I would put a new distrubuter cap on if you haven't recently. Triple check the TPS because it is the

Team420

as 4crawler And moonfish said...double and triple check, also... u said u timed it right on...right on to what...the veci lable should say what the timing should be, not all came timed the same.

Robrt32

My truck was doing that.. I slowly adjusted my timing up until the hesitation and power loss was gone.. I never put a light on it.. I have no idea where its set but she runs SWEET now

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

No we didn't have the jumper plugged in while setting timing unfortunately. I figured my neighbor knew what he was doing being that he rebuilt his 22re but his is a few years newer than mine so that could make a difference. I'll set the jumper and go over there and reset it Thanks.

To Idanity:

I did replace the air filter as well, I forgot to mention that. My clutch feels fine, and the rpms do not go up when I gas it in gear as it would with a slipping clutch. As for clogged injectors, I would hope not. I did recently take off the entire intake manifold system and clean the injectors and ran some seafoam through as well. The AFM seems to work fine as far as I can tell, the flap inside springs back into position when I push it with my hand. I do not know where the potentiometer is for that though. I will do some searching so I can test that. I do have a DMM. Thank you.

Jason191918:

I am slightly uncertain if it is the EGR, I do not know how to test the EGR but I do know what it is. I'll look further into that as well. Thanks.

Moonfish:

I'll be getting new cap soon. I'm not sure why I haven't yet. It doesn't look bad or anything but it's also not new. I will also go and re-test my tps settings again. Thank you.


Team420:

My neighbor and I timed it to "0". He said that's what his should be timed at so mine should be too. It sounds as if he is wrong though. I cannot find any labels on my vehicle with any sort of settings on them they must have been removed, also the previous owners have rattlecan'd the entire truck, including the inside of the hood. I'll keep looking for what an 86 22re should be timed at. Thanks.

Robrt32:

I also just did as you suggested and advanced my timing ever so little without using a light, and most of the hesitation seems to have gone away. We'll see when I drive it a little farther around the block though. I haven't done this sooner because I figured my timing was supposed to be right on and did not want to screw it up. Thanks.

I am left with a few more questions after all this then. First off, what should an 86 22re be set at as far as timing goes? How can I test my EGR to see if it is good or bad? Where is the potentiometer on the AFM to test?

Thanks again

Moonfish

Don't buy anything or waste your time doing anything else until you get the diagnostic jumper working. The tps has to be set for it to work. When you jump the jumper the idle slows down or something and you know it is working. Then set the timing again. The motor is really picky about this. It won't take long and you won't believe the difference.

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

I got my CEL working and I cleared the codes by removing the EFI fuse. I am getting code 12. I will get the timing light from my neighbor very soon I hope. He has been gone today.

abecedarian

if the code 12 appeared after clearing the codes, you have a problem with the knock sensor circuit. could be your timing too far advanced.
you don't need an expensive timing light or anything. you can buy one for 20-30 at most auto parts stores. and having one of your own is nice. and if you're working on your own vehicles, a timing light is a must have.

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

I looked at my knock sensor and noticed that there was not any wires connected to it. I looked around and found a lone wire straggling about around the intake. I pulled the plug on the sensor and checked the color of the wire and compared it to my straggler I found. Lo and behold it was a match. I stripped the wires and just electrical taped them together for the time being and took her for a spin. My truck has never driven with as much power and speed as it did then. Amazing! Then my check engine light came back on and the power and speed dissipated as quickly as it came. I checked my code and it is code 12. I am going to assume I need to get the timing all setup now that I got the sensor plugged back in and I should be set... I think. Also where does the other end of the knock sensor connect to? I'd like to replace the entire wire since the current one is very stiff and brittle. Thanks.

abecedarian

the knock sensor wire is allegedly, or at least should be, a two conductor wire- one center conductor and a shield wrapped around insulation around the center wire, kind of like cable tv coax cable. make sure that the center conductor is not continuous with the shield (a simple ohm / continuity test will say) and that the shield is continuous with ground.

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

Hmm, now you have me wondering. It looked to me as if it was just one 14 gauge stranded wire, but I didn't look extremely close to see if the wire is a 2 conductor wire as you say with a shield wrap. It didn't look like it but I've been known to be wrong before Where does the wire connect to from the sensor? I'll check that end and hopefully just put on a new wire soon.

abecedarian

the center conductor mates with the sensor. the shield is not exposed near the sensor and should be grounded near the ECU.

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

Ok thank you. I am going to check it right now.

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

Just checked around the ECU and it looks all nice and neat in and around there. I can't seem to find the wire I'm looking for though Basically I need to do a resistance test on the core of the wire and another one on the wrap? Assuming that everything is grounded ok, what would be the first thing to look at being that my CEL code is 12 after about 2500rpm+ ?

abecedarian

if the conductor from the knock sensor is continuous to the ECU, and is not shorting out to ground, then you need to verify your timing is correct and that your knock sensor is good

-=j0nnyr0773n=-

Alright thanks again. I'll be testing the wire tomorrow. Should I just unplug the wire from the knock sensor altogether until I know whether it is shorted to ground or not? I don't want to break anything further.

abecedarian

you could try to unplug it. if everything works fine, after verifying your timing, then you may have a problem with the knock sensor itself