Ac vaccuum question
#1
Ac vaccuum question
Be been fussing with my ac for a while ( like a year ) and I've had to replace the clutch 3 times: tap out a broken bolt at the end of the shaft, stripped clutch splines; and now when I did my ISR I didn't hook up the vacuum lines correctly (thought the big one was AC line, but it was smaller one) and when I used AC, on the test drive, the clutch part on the outside, with the rubber around it burnt off and split from the part attached to crankshaft (the compressor clutch piece)
Is this because the vacuum wasn't correct?
It has been working well for a month ( in Texas ) and I'm wondering if replacing the clutch again (free on warranty from oreily) or WTF.
95 pickup 3.0, it's the V belt style like a 4 runner clutch.
Is this because the vacuum wasn't correct?
It has been working well for a month ( in Texas ) and I'm wondering if replacing the clutch again (free on warranty from oreily) or WTF.
95 pickup 3.0, it's the V belt style like a 4 runner clutch.
#2
Registered User
I could be totally wrong, but without checking the FSM, I think the vacuum line is just for idle up. Everything else should be electrical - mechanical. It sounds more like a bad bearing to me. I'm surprised that you didn't hear a lot of squealing and smoke from your belt.
To test the compressor kick-in, with the engine off, connect the + and - terminals on your compressor directly to your battery. The compressor plate should click in and out.
Make sure that you don't have too much refrigerant in your lines (causing too much high pressure) and that you don't have crap in your A/C lines causing some type of binding.
Make sure that you are using the correct compressor oil. This is from the FSM: Always use genuine Toyota R134a air conditioning oil
ND-OIL 8, made expressly for use with R134a.
If even a small amount of the wrong oil is changed, it
will result in clouding of the refrigerant. A large amount
will cause the compressor to seize up.
It could also seize up if you didn't put any oil in with your refrigerant.
If you don't have an A/C manifold, you can get them quite cheap at your local parts store. The manifold should tell you what is going on and help with adding the correct amount of oil and refrigerant (You probably already know this, just trying to help).
Also, you should have a sticker near your radiator indicating the amount of refrigerant and the high and low pressure settings (plus the refrigerant type).
Good luck - Mark
To test the compressor kick-in, with the engine off, connect the + and - terminals on your compressor directly to your battery. The compressor plate should click in and out.
Make sure that you don't have too much refrigerant in your lines (causing too much high pressure) and that you don't have crap in your A/C lines causing some type of binding.
Make sure that you are using the correct compressor oil. This is from the FSM: Always use genuine Toyota R134a air conditioning oil
ND-OIL 8, made expressly for use with R134a.
If even a small amount of the wrong oil is changed, it
will result in clouding of the refrigerant. A large amount
will cause the compressor to seize up.
It could also seize up if you didn't put any oil in with your refrigerant.
If you don't have an A/C manifold, you can get them quite cheap at your local parts store. The manifold should tell you what is going on and help with adding the correct amount of oil and refrigerant (You probably already know this, just trying to help).
Also, you should have a sticker near your radiator indicating the amount of refrigerant and the high and low pressure settings (plus the refrigerant type).
Good luck - Mark
Last edited by KidSheleen; 07-09-2014 at 04:43 AM.
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