About to pull the head - Don't Know What else to do

jungle_runner · 07-10-2009, 06:25 PM

88, 22re, manual. Very loud engine noise, enough to wake up the whole neighborhood.

Knocking sound increases in speed with engine RPM.

I've redone all the timing components, I've adjusted valve lash, I helicoiled a stripped stud in the head and now all exhaust bolts are torqued to spec. Knocking sound still present with valve cover removed.

Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the engine, near cylinder 4, under valve cover.

Could a crack in the head cause this (like an exhaust leak)?

The only thing that I can think to do now is rebuild the cam shaft and rocker assembly.

I noticed that the block says 22r, I'm assuming the 22re uses the same block.

Anyhow, any ideas before I began redoing the cam shaft/head.

Thanks

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neilan · 07-10-2009, 06:39 PM

If you can run the engine with the valve cover off thats a problem. Did you check valve clearance?

jungle_runner · 07-10-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilan

If you can run the engine with the valve cover off thats a problem. Did you check valve clearance?

well, it ran enough so that i could hear the noise, before it died

valve clearances? isn't that the same as valve lash? valve lash is set to .008 intake side and .012 on the exhaust side. if valve clearance is something different, please enlighten me!

thanks

jungle_runner · 07-11-2009, 06:01 AM

i sprayed carb cleaner all around engine, no exhaust leaks or cracks found

PlugItIn · 07-11-2009, 06:56 AM

you set the valves hot right? you can do it cold, but its .007 and .011. Take a video of this if you can...are you sure its not a rod knocking?

Karlton · 07-11-2009, 08:07 AM

I bought a used '94 truck with a 22re. There was a slight knocking sound at a certain rpm when I let off the gas. Then one day while driving on the highway the slight knock became very loud and the truck ran rough and died a couple times. The knock was very loud. Sounded like it was coming from the cylinder head, 3rd of 4th cylinder. I removed the motor to find that I had bought a truck with a bad bearing on the #4 rod journal. The cylinder head was in good shape, but it was when the bearing got to the point where the rod and piston were slopping around and the top of the piston would occasionally slap the the underside of the cylinder head. If you think this sounds worth investigating, you could try removing your oil filter and cutting it apart and see if it's packed with a bunch of metal shavings from a bad bearing. Good luck!

jungle_runner · 07-11-2009, 11:40 AM

Karlton ... thanks, that makes a lot of sense to me, that's the kind of info I'm looking for. I've covered all the basics and I am realizing that it's time to go deeper. I just changed my oil and put in a new filter, old one already gone with the trash pick-up.

When I pull the head, can I keep the Intake and exhaust manifold attached and lift it off as one piece? Thanks

PlugItIn, yes, did 'em hot. As I said, noise is still present even with the cover removed. Or could they still cause noise on their own without valve cover there? Rod knocking? How would I determine if it's a rod knocking? Thanks

Here's that video, there was a lot of exhaust smoke but that was probably just the silicone burning off (i know, not good for O2 sensor), it's gone now:

YouTube Video

whokrz · 07-11-2009, 01:00 PM

http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
I would look into your air flow meter. Make sure the flapper door is not stuck open and operates smoothly with no drag also make sure it is clean inside by the door. Then use a ohm meter to check it.
It looks and sounds just like mine did when the flapper was stuck open.
Here is a link to Toyota FSM http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html they have pretty good trouble shooting guides.

jungle_runner · 07-11-2009, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whokrz

http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
I would look into your air flow meter. Make sure the flapper door is not stuck open and operates smoothly with no drag also make sure it is clean inside by the door. Then use a ohm meter to check it.
It looks and sounds just like mine did when the flapper was stuck open.
Here is a link to Toyota FSM http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html they have pretty good trouble shooting guides.

thanks for that idea ... i checked and the flapper is closed, i was hoping though, that would have been easy ... i'll check out that link, thanks

PlugItIn · 07-11-2009, 04:15 PM

Hmm..hard to tell...you say you changed the timing components, by chance did the chain wear through the timing case and let antifreeze into the oil? That'll ruin bearings pretty quick...and cause a rod knock. You sure its happening higher up in the engine and not down by the oil pan? It sounds like an exhaust leak to me almost, but you say everything is tightened and not leaking...so i havn't a clue...

jungle_runner · 07-11-2009, 04:25 PM

timing cover was intact ...

i sprayed carb cleaner all around the exhaust manifold / head connection ... i had a small leak where the manifold meets the pipe, so i unbolted the pipe and i could still hear the knocking coming from the valve cover/head area (even over the loud exhaust, sounded like a V12)

i will purchase a mechanic's stethoscope and pin point the location or the noise

thanks for making an attempt at this problem, i think it's something in the rocker assembly or a bearing causing rod knock

thanks

myyota · 07-11-2009, 05:06 PM

My guess is a rod knock, (bad crank bearing).

whokrz · 07-12-2009, 09:01 AM

When a 22re is running rich it sounds a lot like a rod knock. I put a new head and block in my 4runner, started it up and it ran fine. I started the full throttle procedure from 30-50 to seat the rings on the 10th time the air flow meter stuck. I thought I just lost a bearing, but it didn't make sense why it was smoking. I pulled spark plug #1 to start a compression test and noticed it was wet and dark on the tip. Once I saw that I knew it was running rich. I continued the compression check found that it was ok. Then I started to eliminate things that would cause it to run rich in the FSM. Mine turned out to be the air meter, but there are many things that will cause it to run rich.

I do not know if a bad bearing will cause it to smoke while having good compression, that was just my thoughts when I had a similar problem.

I would do a compression check and see if your plugs are wet, it would suck to rebuild the engine only to have the same problem because the fuel regulator was bad.

CyMoN · 07-12-2009, 10:27 AM

dose it run ok besides the noise or is it lacking power.
I thought I had spun a bearing when I did a compression test 3rd and 4th cylinder where 10 psi.

I pulled the head on mine and there was about a quarter inch gap missing on the gasket between the 3rd and 4th cylinder.

when I pulled the head I left the intake on but unbolted the exhaust manifold.

jungle_runner · 07-12-2009, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whokrz

I do not know if a bad bearing will cause it to smoke while having good compression, that was just my thoughts when I had a similar problem.

I would do a compression check and see if your plugs are wet, it would suck to rebuild the engine only to have the same problem because the fuel regulator was bad.

Yes Sir! Thank you for that information ... I will do a compression check ... I want to do everything I can to test before I pull the head ... So, if I have good compression then a bad bearing is improbable?

Also, thanks for the link to the FSMs ... I've been reading it like it was a best selling novel ... the suspense, the drama ... I almost shed a tear

ha haa!

PlugItIn · 07-12-2009, 11:23 AM

you can have good compression and have a bad bearing...

jungle_runner · 07-12-2009, 02:23 PM

i bought a mechanic's stethoscope ... noise is loudest from the block, on exhaust and intake sides ... a lot of tinging near exhaust ports 3 & 4 on the exhaust manifold, which makes sense though if the piston/rod is clanging around in there

is there anything else i should replace besides the bearing while i'm in there?

can i replace the bearing from the bottom, by removing the oil pan? or would you recommend going in from the top ... i've never taken a head off before ... any tips/advice would be great ... thanks

screech · 07-12-2009, 02:59 PM

I am lost, thought we were talking about a rod bearing. Rod bearings are on the crankshaft. You have to pull the motor and remove the oil pan. Heard you could do this procedure without pulling the engine, but you will have 8 bolts left after removing the head to remove the engine.
the head bolts- check for length and corrosion. 6.417 is the length of the head bolts. I only had to replace 3 of mine. at 8 or 9 bucks a piece and 10 of them, go with ARP studs.
I have used copper gaskets, felpro and cometic (toyota) type. cometic are the most durable for normal applications. Run about 60 bucks at the dealership if I remember correctly.
I normally change the intake and exhaust studs and nuts to a size 12 on intake and 14 on exhaust if they are all different sizes. takes about an hour to 2 hours to remove a head 2 hours if you fidling around.
The FSM and Haynes manual say put rtv on the front of the block. Its not the freakin block place a little, LITTLE amount on the timing cover. If rtv gets on the block it will seperate the head gasket. yes I have been there.
Take the upper intake manifold off. then the lower one. Dont forget about the fuel line that has copper crush washers on it that run from upper to lower manifold.
If you take the upper intake manifold off, you can access the heater core line on the lower part easier. There is a 12mm bolt on the back of the head that also this line connects to.
Change your fuel filter while the head is off.

There should be a tech write up on this.

You could swap in a stage 1 cam from lc engineering while the head is off. since I recommend to swap a head gasket if you swap cams. The cam journal bolts are under the rocker shaft assy.
Also.... The intake manifold bolt that runs in front of the thermostat housing. should be a allen head bolt if its stock.
PB Blaster is your friend! soak down your bolts for a good hour prior to attempting to remove any.
You could also change your injector o-rings while your waiting for the machine shop to mill your head.
take lots of pictures if this is your first experience of removing a head, to ensure you know your vaccum line and electrical connections are correct when you install everything. I always have a few connections dumbfounding me.

PlugItIn · 07-12-2009, 02:59 PM

you can do the main bearings from the bottom...you just have to drop down the front drivetrain and then the oil pan. Its not too bad...hook an oil pressure gauge up to your block...if theres a bad bearing low oil pressure would be a symptom

jungle_runner · 07-12-2009, 03:52 PM

screech, thanks for the detailed post, i will reference it when i do pull the head and will look into an engnbldr stage 1 cam ... for now though i'm going to go the quicker route, removing the front dif and oil pan ... i had to do that already when i replaced the timing components, had to clean out the oil pan ... wish i would have known about the bearing when i was already in there ... oh well ... i'm getting my lessons, one way or the other, that's why i bought an old rig, to learn about engines ... thanks guys for the help, much appreciated!

jungle_runner · 07-12-2009, 10:55 PM

this afternoon i pulled the front diff and oil pan in about 1.5 hours

i don't even want to say how long it took me the first time

tomorrow i will work on the bearings ... i got prices from the local autozone ... they come in packs of two and the prices range from $4.99-$8.99, not bad

i just put the new cork oil pan gasket on less than a week ago and i haven't driven anywhere ... do i need to buy a new one? can i just lace it with a thin film of silicone?

will i be able to pull the rods through from the bottom so that i can check the pins?

i found this great thread on how to replace the top half of the bearings when going from the bottom: http://www.yotatech.com/f123/main-be...ce-not-102568/

Country Hank · 07-13-2009, 08:55 AM

This may sound wierd, but have you checked the bell housing bolts to make sure they are tight? I bought a truck with a bad "Rod knock" once for $100, tightened the bell housing and drove it for 2 years. The bolts came loose and allowed the tranny to sag a bit and the clutch (or torque converter) was knocking against the bell housing.

Karlton · 07-13-2009, 08:57 AM

I wish you luck and I'm curious to find out if replacing the bearings solves your problem. I considered trying to replace bearings from underneath, but I was advised that if the bad bearing had spun it would most likely be necessary to recondition the rod and the crankshaft. In my case the rod journal on the crank was a real mess. I had a machinist grind my rod journals. Aside from the potential for the rod and crank to be out of round, there is also the possibility that the oil passages in the crank may contain tiny bits of bearing shavings that could lead to premature failure. The guy who did the machining on my crankshaft and rods was very helpful, pointing out how I should go about cleaning out the oil passages in the crank to ensure that no old bearing material fouls the surfaces of the new bearings. But hey, (and I'm not being sarcastic) swapping out the bearings from underneath certainly sounds quicker and cheaper than yanking the whole engine out! Good luck!

bigtrucknwheels · 07-13-2009, 09:32 AM

good luck!

PlugItIn · 07-13-2009, 02:04 PM

if the crank is bad, the engine has to come out. But it is by far quicker and easier to do the bearings from the bottom...youll be able to get the main and rod bearings from underneath fairly easily. There are a couple of threads about this out there somewhere...

07-10-2009, 06:39 PM	#2 (permalink)
neilan Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Corvallis Oregon OSU Posts: 465	If you can run the engine with the valve cover off thats a problem. Did you check valve clearance? __________________ DD: 87 4runner SR5, 31's, rebuilt engine, intake, new head, new injectors, new afm, 2.25 exhuast, header etc... SOLD: TR: 81 sr5 pickup. 5.29's spool rear, detriot front, highsteer, 36 sx's, lifted, bobbed, cagged, 22r with header, 32/36, 261 cam, new head and rebuild. Residing in the PNW bham 360

07-11-2009, 06:01 AM	#4 (permalink)
jungle_runner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 172	i sprayed carb cleaner all around engine, no exhaust leaks or cracks found __________________ The Jungle Runner 88 4runner, 22re, 2" 4crawler body lift, custom aluminum interior panels and lock box, Downey Air Intake, Procomp 31x10.5 M/T Tires, My 1st Yota 4x4, purchased March 07 My business: ProgressiveApps.com

07-11-2009, 06:56 AM	#5 (permalink)
PlugItIn Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Da UP, eh? Posts: 193	you set the valves hot right? you can do it cold, but its .007 and .011. Take a video of this if you can...are you sure its not a rod knocking? __________________ 86 22RTE Turbo 4Runner...project state at the moment 93 22RE Truck...DD 94 22RE Ext.Cab...Girlfriends ride 91 2.4 Diesel WVO Converted Ext.Cab...Dads ride

07-11-2009, 04:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
PlugItIn Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Da UP, eh? Posts: 193	Hmm..hard to tell...you say you changed the timing components, by chance did the chain wear through the timing case and let antifreeze into the oil? That'll ruin bearings pretty quick...and cause a rod knock. You sure its happening higher up in the engine and not down by the oil pan? It sounds like an exhaust leak to me almost, but you say everything is tightened and not leaking...so i havn't a clue... __________________ 86 22RTE Turbo 4Runner...project state at the moment 93 22RE Truck...DD 94 22RE Ext.Cab...Girlfriends ride 91 2.4 Diesel WVO Converted Ext.Cab...Dads ride

07-11-2009, 04:25 PM	#11 (permalink)
jungle_runner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 172	timing cover was intact ... i sprayed carb cleaner all around the exhaust manifold / head connection ... i had a small leak where the manifold meets the pipe, so i unbolted the pipe and i could still hear the knocking coming from the valve cover/head area (even over the loud exhaust, sounded like a V12) i will purchase a mechanic's stethoscope and pin point the location or the noise thanks for making an attempt at this problem, i think it's something in the rocker assembly or a bearing causing rod knock thanks __________________ The Jungle Runner 88 4runner, 22re, 2" 4crawler body lift, custom aluminum interior panels and lock box, Downey Air Intake, Procomp 31x10.5 M/T Tires, My 1st Yota 4x4, purchased March 07 My business: ProgressiveApps.com

07-11-2009, 08:07 AM	#6 (permalink)
Karlton Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Iowa City, IA Posts: 55	I bought a used '94 truck with a 22re. There was a slight knocking sound at a certain rpm when I let off the gas. Then one day while driving on the highway the slight knock became very loud and the truck ran rough and died a couple times. The knock was very loud. Sounded like it was coming from the cylinder head, 3rd of 4th cylinder. I removed the motor to find that I had bought a truck with a bad bearing on the #4 rod journal. The cylinder head was in good shape, but it was when the bearing got to the point where the rod and piston were slopping around and the top of the piston would occasionally slap the the underside of the cylinder head. If you think this sounds worth investigating, you could try removing your oil filter and cutting it apart and see if it's packed with a bunch of metal shavings from a bad bearing. Good luck!

07-11-2009, 01:00 PM	#8 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 345	http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html I would look into your air flow meter. Make sure the flapper door is not stuck open and operates smoothly with no drag also make sure it is clean inside by the door. Then use a ohm meter to check it. It looks and sounds just like mine did when the flapper was stuck open. Here is a link to Toyota FSM http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html they have pretty good trouble shooting guides.

07-11-2009, 05:06 PM	#12 (permalink)
myyota Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: San Pablo, CA Posts: 1,418	My guess is a rod knock, (bad crank bearing). __________________ 86 Toyota 4Runner Solid Axle Swap, 16'' of lift, 37x12.50-15 GoodYear MTR tires, 5 speed manual trans swap, InchWorm Duel Cases With 5.7 Gears, 63'' Chevy Springs In The Rear, 5'' Trail Gear Springs In Front, Marlin Crawler Third Members, 4.88 Gears With A Detroit In The Rear, High Pinion Front With 4.88 Gears And An ARB, Downey Header, Optima Battery, Trail Gear Sliders, Addicted Offroad Front Bumper, Trail Gear Rear Bumper.

07-12-2009, 09:01 AM	#13 (permalink)
whokrz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Suisun City, California Posts: 345	When a 22re is running rich it sounds a lot like a rod knock. I put a new head and block in my 4runner, started it up and it ran fine. I started the full throttle procedure from 30-50 to seat the rings on the 10th time the air flow meter stuck. I thought I just lost a bearing, but it didn't make sense why it was smoking. I pulled spark plug #1 to start a compression test and noticed it was wet and dark on the tip. Once I saw that I knew it was running rich. I continued the compression check found that it was ok. Then I started to eliminate things that would cause it to run rich in the FSM. Mine turned out to be the air meter, but there are many things that will cause it to run rich. I do not know if a bad bearing will cause it to smoke while having good compression, that was just my thoughts when I had a similar problem. I would do a compression check and see if your plugs are wet, it would suck to rebuild the engine only to have the same problem because the fuel regulator was bad. __________________ 1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

07-12-2009, 10:27 AM	#14 (permalink)
CyMoN Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: INDIANA Posts: 2,164	dose it run ok besides the noise or is it lacking power. I thought I had spun a bearing when I did a compression test 3rd and 4th cylinder where 10 psi. I pulled the head on mine and there was about a quarter inch gap missing on the gasket between the 3rd and 4th cylinder. when I pulled the head I left the intake on but unbolted the exhaust manifold. __________________ my rigs 89 4runner 1989 4runner v6 5 speed everything factory +4susplift running bfg 31s and a aux gas tank and more aux lights than needed 86 pickup 1986 stock pickup 22r 31.10 BFG ATs flatbed a sad day for the 4runner "One moment of patience may ward off great disaster. One moment of impatience may ruin a whole life."

07-12-2009, 11:23 AM	#16 (permalink)
PlugItIn Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Da UP, eh? Posts: 193	you can have good compression and have a bad bearing... __________________ 86 22RTE Turbo 4Runner...project state at the moment 93 22RE Truck...DD 94 22RE Ext.Cab...Girlfriends ride 91 2.4 Diesel WVO Converted Ext.Cab...Dads ride

07-12-2009, 02:23 PM	#17 (permalink)
jungle_runner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 172	i bought a mechanic's stethoscope ... noise is loudest from the block, on exhaust and intake sides ... a lot of tinging near exhaust ports 3 & 4 on the exhaust manifold, which makes sense though if the piston/rod is clanging around in there is there anything else i should replace besides the bearing while i'm in there? can i replace the bearing from the bottom, by removing the oil pan? or would you recommend going in from the top ... i've never taken a head off before ... any tips/advice would be great ... thanks __________________ The Jungle Runner 88 4runner, 22re, 2" 4crawler body lift, custom aluminum interior panels and lock box, Downey Air Intake, Procomp 31x10.5 M/T Tires, My 1st Yota 4x4, purchased March 07 My business: ProgressiveApps.com Last edited by jungle_runner; 07-12-2009 at 02:29 PM.

07-12-2009, 02:59 PM	#18 (permalink)
screech Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Hampton Roads, VA Posts: 58	I am lost, thought we were talking about a rod bearing. Rod bearings are on the crankshaft. You have to pull the motor and remove the oil pan. Heard you could do this procedure without pulling the engine, but you will have 8 bolts left after removing the head to remove the engine. the head bolts- check for length and corrosion. 6.417 is the length of the head bolts. I only had to replace 3 of mine. at 8 or 9 bucks a piece and 10 of them, go with ARP studs. I have used copper gaskets, felpro and cometic (toyota) type. cometic are the most durable for normal applications. Run about 60 bucks at the dealership if I remember correctly. I normally change the intake and exhaust studs and nuts to a size 12 on intake and 14 on exhaust if they are all different sizes. takes about an hour to 2 hours to remove a head 2 hours if you fidling around. The FSM and Haynes manual say put rtv on the front of the block. Its not the freakin block place a little, LITTLE amount on the timing cover. If rtv gets on the block it will seperate the head gasket. yes I have been there. Take the upper intake manifold off. then the lower one. Dont forget about the fuel line that has copper crush washers on it that run from upper to lower manifold. If you take the upper intake manifold off, you can access the heater core line on the lower part easier. There is a 12mm bolt on the back of the head that also this line connects to. Change your fuel filter while the head is off. There should be a tech write up on this. You could swap in a stage 1 cam from lc engineering while the head is off. since I recommend to swap a head gasket if you swap cams. The cam journal bolts are under the rocker shaft assy. Also.... The intake manifold bolt that runs in front of the thermostat housing. should be a allen head bolt if its stock. PB Blaster is your friend! soak down your bolts for a good hour prior to attempting to remove any. You could also change your injector o-rings while your waiting for the machine shop to mill your head. take lots of pictures if this is your first experience of removing a head, to ensure you know your vaccum line and electrical connections are correct when you install everything. I always have a few connections dumbfounding me. __________________ evo, turbo 4runner, f150, cobra, n/a 4runner, 69 stang. "I am not a slacker, I am a deligater."

07-12-2009, 02:59 PM	#19 (permalink)
PlugItIn Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Da UP, eh? Posts: 193	you can do the main bearings from the bottom...you just have to drop down the front drivetrain and then the oil pan. Its not too bad...hook an oil pressure gauge up to your block...if theres a bad bearing low oil pressure would be a symptom __________________ 86 22RTE Turbo 4Runner...project state at the moment 93 22RE Truck...DD 94 22RE Ext.Cab...Girlfriends ride 91 2.4 Diesel WVO Converted Ext.Cab...Dads ride

07-12-2009, 03:52 PM	#20 (permalink)
jungle_runner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 172	screech, thanks for the detailed post, i will reference it when i do pull the head and will look into an engnbldr stage 1 cam ... for now though i'm going to go the quicker route, removing the front dif and oil pan ... i had to do that already when i replaced the timing components, had to clean out the oil pan ... wish i would have known about the bearing when i was already in there ... oh well ... i'm getting my lessons, one way or the other, that's why i bought an old rig, to learn about engines ... thanks guys for the help, much appreciated! __________________ The Jungle Runner 88 4runner, 22re, 2" 4crawler body lift, custom aluminum interior panels and lock box, Downey Air Intake, Procomp 31x10.5 M/T Tires, My 1st Yota 4x4, purchased March 07 My business: ProgressiveApps.com

07-12-2009, 10:55 PM	#21 (permalink)
jungle_runner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon Posts: 172	this afternoon i pulled the front diff and oil pan in about 1.5 hours i don't even want to say how long it took me the first time tomorrow i will work on the bearings ... i got prices from the local autozone ... they come in packs of two and the prices range from $4.99-$8.99, not bad i just put the new cork oil pan gasket on less than a week ago and i haven't driven anywhere ... do i need to buy a new one? can i just lace it with a thin film of silicone? will i be able to pull the rods through from the bottom so that i can check the pins? i found this great thread on how to replace the top half of the bearings when going from the bottom: http://www.yotatech.com/f123/main-be...ce-not-102568/ __________________ The Jungle Runner 88 4runner, 22re, 2" 4crawler body lift, custom aluminum interior panels and lock box, Downey Air Intake, Procomp 31x10.5 M/T Tires, My 1st Yota 4x4, purchased March 07 My business: ProgressiveApps.com

07-13-2009, 08:55 AM	#22 (permalink)
Country Hank Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Daytona Florida Posts: 22	This may sound wierd, but have you checked the bell housing bolts to make sure they are tight? I bought a truck with a bad "Rod knock" once for $100, tightened the bell housing and drove it for 2 years. The bolts came loose and allowed the tranny to sag a bit and the clutch (or torque converter) was knocking against the bell housing.

07-13-2009, 08:57 AM	#23 (permalink)
Karlton Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Iowa City, IA Posts: 55	I wish you luck and I'm curious to find out if replacing the bearings solves your problem. I considered trying to replace bearings from underneath, but I was advised that if the bad bearing had spun it would most likely be necessary to recondition the rod and the crankshaft. In my case the rod journal on the crank was a real mess. I had a machinist grind my rod journals. Aside from the potential for the rod and crank to be out of round, there is also the possibility that the oil passages in the crank may contain tiny bits of bearing shavings that could lead to premature failure. The guy who did the machining on my crankshaft and rods was very helpful, pointing out how I should go about cleaning out the oil passages in the crank to ensure that no old bearing material fouls the surfaces of the new bearings. But hey, (and I'm not being sarcastic) swapping out the bearings from underneath certainly sounds quicker and cheaper than yanking the whole engine out! Good luck!

07-13-2009, 09:32 AM	#24 (permalink)
bigtrucknwheels Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Selinsgrove, PA Posts: 2,066	good luck! __________________ '97 4Runner SR5 V6. 4wd/V6/5spd. Factory rear locker, 2" OME suspension lift, 265/75-R16 BF Goodrich A/T KO's, Gray (in my case Blue/Red) wire mod. '90 4Runner SR5 V6. 4wd/V6/Auto. Complete Part Out! Click or PM! '90 Pickup Xtra Cab DLX. 4wd/V6/Auto. Soon for sale... :( '89 Pickup Std. Cab DLX. 4wd/I4/5spd. 3" BL. Soon for sale... :( ♪♪ Anything your Jeep can do, my Yota can do better. Mine can do anything better than yours ♪♪ Proud Sponsor22re Oil Cap Removed Thread

07-13-2009, 02:04 PM	#25 (permalink)
PlugItIn Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Da UP, eh? Posts: 193	if the crank is bad, the engine has to come out. But it is by far quicker and easier to do the bearings from the bottom...youll be able to get the main and rod bearings from underneath fairly easily. There are a couple of threads about this out there somewhere... __________________ 86 22RTE Turbo 4Runner...project state at the moment 93 22RE Truck...DD 94 22RE Ext.Cab...Girlfriends ride 91 2.4 Diesel WVO Converted Ext.Cab...Dads ride

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