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95 'runner 3vze Heads stuck?

Old 08-31-2013, 11:45 AM
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95 'runner 3vze Heads stuck?

Not sure what is going on, been studying all thru the FSM and yotatech, but it's like something is holding the heads firm in the rear. Trying to lift both off with the bypass attatched, and they don't want to get up off the block on the firewall side of the action. Bolt out on the bypass, 16 12pt and the 2 6pt bolts all out,
Have I missed something else? any tips?
Old 08-31-2013, 12:06 PM
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By "bypass" do you mean the exhaust crossover? Go underneath the vehicle and take the 3 nuts off of each manifold and just let the crossover lay there until you can lift the heads off. Other than that, if you have the lower intake off and out of the way you should be able to reach back there and feel anything attached or get an inspection mirror and go over it. I think on the right bank there was a fuel line and towards the center was a bracket attached to one of the coolant tubes.
Old 08-31-2013, 03:29 PM
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Yeah, meant the crossover. Heat got bad gonna go back at it tonite. Just trying to yank both hrsds and the pipe like some do but it aint working for me. Gonna have to get at the xover nuts, thanks for the help!
Old 08-31-2013, 05:29 PM
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Yeah... personally I like things dismantled and easy on my back, one head is easier to lift and maneuver than two. And beyond that you have to overcome the dowel pins, so you're pulling against the opposite head as you try to lift one head away from the engine. At the very least you'd have to loosen one side of the crossover.
Old 08-31-2013, 06:04 PM
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X2. I'm not sure how you can take both heads off at the same time with the crossover still attached. How does the crossover clear the firewall and the block?
Old 08-31-2013, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wrenchmonster
Yeah... personally I like things dismantled and easy on my back, one head is easier to lift and maneuver than two. And beyond that you have to overcome the dowel pins, so you're pulling against the opposite head as you try to lift one head away from the engine. At the very least you'd have to loosen one side of the crossover.
Thanks bro - guess I was looking for the 'easy way' LOL and there ain't one here. Got 4 of the 6 crossover nuts loose and easy, the others wait for a universal joint and an attack from under - early tomorrow. Frickin' heat index was insane today I had to stop.
Old 08-31-2013, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyberman
X2. I'm not sure how you can take both heads off at the same time with the crossover still attached. How does the crossover clear the firewall and the block?
I don't have a frickin clue either, but there are Yotatech threads that say that is the way to do it - I only know it is not working in this camp, (95 2WD runner). Gears have shifted, and those heads are coming off in the morning, that damn crossover pipe ...
But ... I will be the victor, and to me will go the spoils! Unless a bunch of meddling kids and a damn dog get in the way!
Old 09-02-2013, 01:52 PM
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tnyota, I am doing the same exact thing to my 95 4x4runner. I got it on the cheap with 96k miles with known head gasket problem. I am at the point where I need to remove heads but that damm crossover thing is a pain. Going to study it again with mirrors and flexi-flash light to see what I missed. If this does not work the motor is coming out. I will check back to see how you did.
Old 09-02-2013, 02:33 PM
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Crossover IS a pain but it HAS to go for a clean job besides your not going to drop both heads in on install are you i could only imagine the problems....so if you remove now install will be a breeze. Be sure to chase all those threads and use new nuts.....and just leave crossover hanging out till heads on
Old 09-02-2013, 02:40 PM
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Gotta remove the 6 nuts and pull the crossover away from the studs. Guessing you already removed the exhaust pipe.
Old 09-02-2013, 02:42 PM
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John22rebuilder, Thanks for the heads up. Having never done this before I am taking little steps here. I will get the crossover off by soaking the nuts in penetrant for a couple days. Your advise about getting new fasteners is appreciated and will order them.
Old 09-02-2013, 02:45 PM
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cyberman, Yes they are out. Will attempt to remove six nuts tonight. This morning I was ready to tow the 4x4runner to a shop but after getting great advise from this forum I am going to tuff it out and get it done. Thanks everyone.
Old 09-02-2013, 03:20 PM
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6 nuts only but they are a PAIN i think on the starter side i used a box wrench on the two lowers and a looooooong extension with a swivel on the tip of a deep well on the top
Driver side a bit more easy man if i had one of those 14mm ratcheting box end it wouldhave been faster but be patient and make sure not to strip anything be sure to use a 6pt when breaking loose
Old 09-02-2013, 03:24 PM
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6 nuts only but they are a PAIN i think on the starter side i used a box wrench on the two lowers and a looooooong extension with a swivel on the tip of a deep well on the top
Driver side a bit more easy man if i had one of those 14mm ratcheting box end it wouldhave been faster but be patient and make sure not to strip anything be sure to use a 6pt when breaking loose
Or maybe the top on the starter side i hit from top after valve cover off with that box and deep well extension on lower two....dang well good luck.
After parts and machining minus (my)labor i think mine came out to 800 btw..
Old 09-02-2013, 03:37 PM
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Hope im not soapboxing here but a few more tips on install :
Chase all head bolts, i forgot to bank one and when head bolts started to torque up coolant started to bleed from hg and head i had to remove head all over again and shoulda had that done when head was on shop
Dont forget about the rear starter side short head bolt oppsite side bane its on the front
The two head are identical, mark them
The egr bracket had the be removed for head bolt
The egr bolts up best if you attach loosly the big compression fitting and then the two to the head then the two to the upper plenum with the plenum loose you can save that for almost last
Oh and take your time
Old 09-02-2013, 05:29 PM
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John22rebuilder, I got your last message while I was at Harbor Freight. Picked a set of box ratchet wrenches (W/14mm). Printed your last messages so I can follow. I did my best to mark everything with a gold sharpie pen and took a ton of photos. Replacing head and exhaust nuts with new. Going to look at the crossover tonight but would rather watch football if there is a Monday Night game tonight. Thanks for the info.
Old 09-02-2013, 05:48 PM
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A chilton /haynes manuel is of great help and will show head bolt tighten sequence wish i had a photobucket acct to show you my special $ 5 cam sprocket holder but its 1inch pipe with (2) 1/2" bolts w locknuts holding the bolt heads away about 1" spaced for the cam wheel spokes...... worked awsome
Old 09-02-2013, 06:02 PM
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Hope you guys got new head bolts...
Old 09-02-2013, 07:05 PM
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Agreed on the headbolts white paint pen (for the two stage torque up)is a bonus too AND it looks good.
Old 09-02-2013, 07:06 PM
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3 total
Paint after 1 stage too spec torque
90DEG all around
Then again
!!!My bad

Last edited by john22rebuilder; 09-02-2013 at 07:09 PM.

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