Erich Stein

I start the truck it idles at like 1,200 rpm and if I am patient enough it will drop around 800 rpm after warms up. Going from park to reverse isn't very graceful, feels like I'm doing a neutral drop and the power will give the truck a little shake. I don't know what's going on with the rear brakes I probably need a proportional valve since I am not convinced they are even working at all, since I inspected after 10k miles the drums look as new as they were when they were put on 10k miles ago.

Park to reverse, or park to drive, gives me just a slightly uncomfortable nudge, I wouldn't care except it seems like it's putting stress down the driveshaft into whatever gears in the rear. Every so often it will actually go from park-to-first or park-to-reverse and feel graceful - but I have lost track of how often it makes the bang, vs - graceful transition. So if only my front brakes are engauged, and I gear into drive - there's probably a punch all the way through the drive train that cancels once the pressure of the rear wheels lock against the force of the front brakes ??? I don't know everything there is to know about the entire drive train, but I have a very good understanding. Is there something in the torque converter, or any other part that can wear out that is expecting maintenance? Something that if I don't change eventually starts making a bigger boom and damaging other parts creating a bad consequence? Please advise.

osv

the rpm that you are at when putting it into gear is going to be a factor, but they are designed to be driven when the engine is cold, at higher rpm's.

you already looked at all of the u-joints, as i recall, so that shouldn't be a factor.

long shot might be a broken engine/trans mount.

Erich Stein

There is something missing down there, I thought it was a brush guard. Is there a bracket that supposed to go there?

osv

i wonder if there is supposed to be rubber around it?

millball

Nothing missing, I 'm pretty sure.

That thing is a type of harmonic vibration damper that Toyota put on those automatic trannys in order to minimise, or prevent, some sort of vibration that otherwise occurs without that slug there as a counterpoise..

I think that the bolt with large washer is supposed to keep the slug from falling completely off if it's bonded rubber joint fails.

Erich Stein

Well, the truck always seems to idle high at first. I am used to starting the engine, put in drive and GO,so waiting for the truck to lower idle will take about 5 minutes or so every time I turn if off. I don't know if one of the 1,000 different sensors are not reporting correctly, due to the previous owner having to fake out some computer conditions to pass state inspection (which is no longer required since they just passed a new rule to allow everything from 1995 and older to not require inspection anymore). Check-engine light comes on and off periodically, and I was just told to forget it, it runs - just drive.

I figured there was about an inch or so play in the whole drivetrain if only the front brakes were locked and I put it in gear, the truck's drive to the back wheels would lurch until the front wheels locked it. I guess I'm going to do this proportion valve thing to make sure bake bakes start working and go from there.