ieandro

Hi everyone,

I'm in a bind here, started on replacing my clutch on my '94 Pickup 22RE 5-spd and I had the directions on my laptop, but my laptop took a dump yesterday so now i'm trying to find the how-to on my phone and I can't seem to find it.

So far everything that i've removed are:

shifters
slave cyl.
starter
wires to tranny

my dilemma is the top two bolts of the tranny. I read someone with a 24" extension / wobble combo through the interior was the way to go, but looking at where the shifter hole is how do I even get there? I also read someone lowered the tranny down some after unbolting the crossmember and was able to open some space to get the bolts from underneath.

Which direction should I go?

Any help would be appreciated .. I'd like to get it done by next week and its getting really cold now.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Mine is a V6, but I can get to all of the bell housing bolts from the bottom either with extensions and sockets or a wrench. Lowering the crossmember helps but be careful. Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?

ieandro

Sorry 4wd. I looked from the bottom and yeah i can slide some extensions on it, but th angle is tricky im afraid ill round off the head rather than loosen it. I will try lowering it a bit and then attempting. Thanks for the quick reply!!

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget the driveshafts lol Keep the transfer case on the trans
One thing you will learn working on vehicle is most of the time you can't see what your doing and have to go by feel. As long as your wrench, socket is on square you won't round it off.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

BTW welcome to Yotatech

bone collector

I have 2 24" extensions with a wobble that I use whenever I do a tranny removal. It works pretty good. I usually end up in the middle or the back half of the transmission. I make it longer to reduce the angle on the wobble. Don't be afraid to raise or lower the engine/tranny as you need. Sometimes its easier to jack up the tail of the transmission to push the engine ever so slightly away from the firewall, then you can use a ratchet wrench on the top two bolts. Best of luck

ieandro

Oh yes I did have both drive shafts unbolted.

I only had access to two youtube videos on the clutch replacement, but I guess the guys were so good that the step of unbolting the tranny was a general description. I'm a little rusty on my skills so even a little hiccup seems daunting to me.

Again, many thanks

bone collector

is the tranny cross member unbolted?? If so make sure there is a jack under the tranny to help support it, and so it doesn't crush you..... if you remove the crossmember you can tilt the engine/tranny to get access to those pesky bolts. It will tilt pretty far, just make sure you don't crush anything in the engine bay, (heater hoses, etc...) best of luck

ieandro

OK .. Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I got my tranny down even in this snow. Took a bit of prying with pry bar to disconnect but eventually came off.

Couldn't tell if the crud all over the rear end of the oil pan was from my drive shaft spewing out some fluid or the rear main seal had been leaking. The seal looked dry, but had some ever so slight rippling on the seal itself which led me to believe it had leaked. I decided to take it out, but the rubber just seemed so difficult to get a screw driver in that I ended up taking the whole carrier out with it.
What I noticed in the inner thin ring of the carrier was mangled - this looked like it had been replaced before just not correctly.. a bit of a headache but luckily have a good friend who works at parts dept. of Toyota here in my town. Unfortunately said carried comes at a steep price of $67 - with employee discount, but at least he hooked me up with a tube of the FIPG that everyone seems to talk about.

All is well though. Things came off without much of a hitch considering the amount of rust my undercarriage has. I hope to finish before the weekend.