redneck17

About a month ago I posted that my 94 PU would start then it might not start. Today it started 6 times in a row, 7th time will not start. I tried it a few more times with no luck.I have replaced the MAF sensor,the coil and the ignition switch. I have wiggled wires and nothing. Any ideas. someone told me to post schematics but I don't know how. Tell me how and I will post them. Thanks for any help.

skebe22RTE

what do you mean by not starting? does it crank but not start? does the starter just click? does it start, run for a few seconds and then shut off?

RAD4Runner

Like skebe2RTE said ^^^
A problem well-stated is a problem half-solved. What engine? Transmission?

redneck17

It is a 22re with a 5 Speed trans. It will turn over fine but it may start or it may not. More often not. Sometimes when you first turn the key it sounds like it might start then it just keeps turning but don't start. When I take it to the shop they swap something and when I get it home it does the same thing. It has been in 3 different shops for a total of about 5 months. I figured I could change parts but I don't know what else to change.

RAD4Runner

Checked if u have fuel pressure? Spark? Then we'll go from there. And replace those shops Obviously those guys are blindly guessing at ur expense.

redneck17

Last night I pulled a plug wire while a buddy turned the engine over and I had spark. How do I check fuel pressure?

redneck17

I have a fuel pump and gas tank that is about 13 months old, fuel filter and complete engine rebuild about two yrs old.

skebe22RTE

you could check for fuel an easy way by cracking the 12 mm bolt on the cold start injector... it won't tell you pressure but atleast you'll know the pump is working? but if it squirts out strong, that's a good sign.

you could also rent a noid light from a parts store and check to see if the injectors are firing.

redneck17

Ok i just loosen that bolt a little and turned the motor over and their was plenty of fuel. Then I tried to start it and it would not start. About an hour later I tried it again and at first it didnt act like it was going to start but then it did.I let it run a little while then cut it off and it started back three times in a row. I let it set for about ten minutes and it started again. I have no idea whats going on.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

So does it only have issues starting when cold or does it happen after driving around for awhile also?

skebe22RTE

that's what my next question was going to be... when you first started it when you had the cold start injector fuel line loosened, was it hot or cold?

redneck17

It has never really mattered if it was hot or cold. If it will start today I'll drive it around some. been scared to go anywhere because it seems to be getting worse.

skebe22RTE

i hate to tell you this, but you might have to be forced to check for spark and fuel when you're on the road and while the symptom is happening... so if you're in a parking lot and it happens, you'll have to pop your hood and check to see if you're getting spark and fuel... i'd say if you're not getting spark and fuel, it might be a good possibility it's your cam sensor within your distributor, in other words, switch out your distributor... but then again, it might not be that because you're having starting issues, it's not like your truck will just die right? i'd do that and report back...

redneck17

Went for a ride to deer camp, about 10 miles. It died one time then started right back. Rode about another mile and it died. I checked for gas and fire and I had both. I tried to pull it off and wouldn't start. So I pulled it home and it is a little after midnight and it still will not start.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

22RE

If it does not matter if the engine is hot or cold I have to go with a poor connection rather then something getting hot and failing like a coil or igniter

Once the engine has started it keeps running till you shut it off Does not quit while driving ??

Last I looked you don`t have a MAF If you changed that it is interesting.

All these parts that were replaced tested bad??

New parts were tested before being installed??

You replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch not the lock cylinder??

Ground connections cleaned and checked??

The one for the ECU on the aluminum of the intake manifold can cause all sorts of problems if the aluminum is corroded .

Another thing to look at is loose connections in the fuse block

Relay loose in the socket as well

Burnt or pitted contacts in a relay causing a intermittent problem

redneck17

There is a MAF on the 94 PU and I will go back and check the grounds again.And anything else like relays and fuse block. Thanks

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Interesting my 94 4Runner has a AFM

What Part # is Your MAF I would love to upgrade .

Does your 94 also support the OBD II Diagnostics ??

redneck17

I dont know,I just went to the parts house and ordered the MAF and I don't know what the OBD II is.

RAD4Runner

Like Wyoming asked earlier, does it:
(1) Keep on running once started or
(2) it also stalls while it's running?

If (2) most likely a loose connection somewhere.

RAD4Runner

Exactly. Fuel at CSI banjo bolt only indicates that fuel pump is working.
O.P. still needs to check if injectors are firing.

What follows is crucial:
Yes, it is possible that

O.P.,
When you say it would not start do you at least hear it attempting a "VROOM!" but stuttering an dying or absolutely nothing at all?

While you have the problem, did you try wiggling the harness leading to the injectors, right around the intake manifold? The wires that connect the grounds of the injectors to the ECU are there. There are weak splices on that wire that could easily break, get brittle or corroded from extreme temps around the intake manifold.

If you do not have noid light handy, yet, that would help you locate the issue.

I also suggest you post schematic showing from ignition switch, to EFI resistor, to ECU...