skinny

Ok so yesterday I fixed b+ from alt to power block under hood

Now I can't get shift out of park unless I push manual unlock button in from of shifter

The wire I put in was fro alt b to about 6" from power block

Someone help I'm away most of day so on my phone could use fix fast do I can use for work

scope103

Check the STOP, CIG, and GAUGE fuses.

skinny

Gage's all work and cig lighter

rustypigeon

Stop lights work?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Remeber safety first! Always disconnect the battery when doing electrical connections..

Not sure what you could have done to short that out. What exactly are you having to manipulate? Maybe it's not related and just happened to move/wear-out? You didn't have any arcing/sparks while doing your hook up?

If I'm remebering correctly the ECT computer is part of the ECM, it could be damaged. If you just have to wiggle the stick to get the solenoid to disengage it might need replaced or adjusted(BFH percusive maintenence, not sure if those have adjustment nuts the last guy never posted his solution).

Regarding the proper instalation of that wire it's really simpler than it looks. Push the release tab in the top of the box located next t the 80a fuse assembly and push the whole assembly out the bottom. Undo the nuts and replace your wire, and slip it back into the fuse box.

rustypigeon

The ECT computer is indeed part of the ECM. It does not affect movement of the shift lever however.

Movement of the shift lever is controlled by the shift lock ECU, which is located in the shifter lever housing.

skinny

just found out my dash lights don't work either
I forgot to check tail lights just now

i had to repair my new wire install as the terminal end that was soldered on at the alt end has come undone
I can't believe there is that much heat there to melt solder

scope103

You were repairing a factory cable? Or one that had been repaired before with a soldered connection?

If soldering is so easy, why do you think Toyota uses machine-crimped connections? Because soldering will provide a good (low-current) electrical connection, but it is worthless as a mechanical connection. A soldered connection on that wire will quickly crack with vibration, and once that happens the high current will instantly melt the rest of the joint.

It's your truck, but I would get the factory wire. Soldering will not last, and the hardware-store "crimp" connectors just aren't good enough for that location.

Last, don't forget to let us know how your shift-lock turns out.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks, I knew that was there really I did.. at one point..

The shiftlock ecu uses the CIG/Acc, gauge, and Stop fuses. If these are all intact you may have a problem in the integration relay. Verify the fuses, preferably with a meter, and test for power on Pin 1 and 9 of the integration relay. If you have power here the next spot to check is that the switch on the brake pedal is functioning.

Regarding the melted solder it could be you used a low temp leaded solder. The location next to the water pipes and exhaust. Failing bearings in the alternator. Or just didn't use a big enough wire and the current heated and melted your solder joint.

Automotive spec is 140 or 170c I don't recall which off hand. That would be 284-338f. You need to make sure your solder temp is above that aswell you use proper wire rated for those temperatures.

If you only have limited access to smaller wire you can gang it up, eg use more than one, to handle the current.

skinny

the wire I put in is 4 gauge multi strand
could be a low melt solder but I have used it lots in past for stuff like battery conections and or starter
as for the terminal not cheap crimp type but nice copper solder or crimp type

skinny

which is the intergration relay
how do I find it

scope103

The integration relay is behind the driver's kick panel fuse box. So far as I can tell, it has nothing to do with the shift lock system. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4lighting.pdf It, too, gets power from the CIG and GAUGE (and TURN) fuses, but if you're worried about the power to the shift-lock ecu it would probably be easier to look for power AT the shift-lock ecu. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...55shiftloc.pdf

Have you checked the three fuses? If your dash lights don't work (GAUGE), then of course the shift-lock won't work.

skinny

I looked at fuses and didn't notice any blown but I will have to get out my meter to check for sure

skinny

I ran out to the truck quick and swapped the 10 amp fuse for gauge with the anit lock one still nothing
i'm getting tempted to put 12 down old wire just to see if these issues go away
but can't do that till tomorrow

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Int' relay pin 1 to Shiftlock ecu 1(Cig fuse), Int' relay pin 9 to shiftlock ecu pin #3(Gauge fuse).

And nice catch(again) sir, thank you!

Better check for power at the shiftlock ecu, you could have a disconnect between the integration relay and there. Pin 1 is Green-Red, Pin3 is Black-Orange..

skinny

Ok so had look this morn quick
No dash lights
No tail lights
Shifter locked
Think cruise is out to (thought it worked yesterday)

Cig lighter seems to work

After work I'm going to put power down old wire in harness see if the stuff works

But still looking for help in case that still is nfg

rustypigeon

I think you have an open circuit at the AM1 fuse connection in the junction box under the hood. If you look at the back of the fuse connection, there should be 2 white wires on one side and 1 on the other side.

One of the wires that connects to the AM1 fuse controls everything that you lost. Dash lights, stop lights, shift lock ECU...

With the ignition off, pull the AM1 fuse under the hood and pull the 15amp "Stop" fuse in the drivers side kick panel. There should be continuity between one of the terminals of the AM1 and one of the terminals of the "Stop" fuse.

scope103

Stoplights shouldn't be on the AM1 circuit http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2powersou.pdf but CIG and GAUGE certainly are.

Taillights (which, strictly speaking, aren't part of the shift-lock circuit) come off before AM1 and AM2. Which suggests a problem at the vicinity of the 80amp fuse. Which, not surprisingly, is where skinny was working when this problem developed.

rustypigeon

Yes, stop lights and tail lights are not on the AM1 circuit, but the wire that powers the stop lights connects "upstream" of the AM1 fuse, at AM1 pin number 3 with a white wire. I suspect they tapped the voltage off of AM1 pin 3 because the 80amp ALT fuse pin 6 already had 3 connections going to it.

The link you have is a power flow diagram. It does not show how the wires actually connect in the circuit, it just shows how the power flows.

The wire at AM1 pin number 3 goes to both the tail light relay and "stop" fuses. Downstream of the "stop" fuse it goes to the shiftlock ECU providing a very important input. Downstream of the tail light relay it goes to the "tail" fuse and then on the all the dash lights, tail lights, license plate lights etc...

skinny

ok problem solved
the wire I replaced is not jut a wire from alt to fuse block like lots told me before doing the repair
after getting home from work today I put power back down the wire I cut on both ends to terminate it and lay in new much larger wire

when I sent 12v back down the wire things worked again
I started to remove the wire from the harness starting at the battery area
after getting it pulled all the way with about a foot to go I found factory splice and the wire spliced into headed into the fender well to I guess all the stuff that stopped working

I thank everyone on here for the help in trying to get things fixed thats why I come here