mgklee

I acquired a 94' 22re about 3 months ago & shortly after I started to develop head gasket problems. The previous owner said he had just changed out the timing set & that came to be true. So I pulled the motor & got it on a stand & sure enough the head gasket failed on number 1 cylinder. Since there was coolant in the oil, I took the pan off & the bearings were toast. I took the short block to a reputable machine shop in my area & had them machine and set up my short block. I got the short block back & everything looked great. Bored .20 over, .012 taken off the block deck, .08 taken off the head deck, new pistons, ground crank, new bearings, & reconditioned rods. I started looking at the pistons at TDC & they sit below the deck surface a little bit. So my first question would be is this okay, will this motor run good? They sit .013-.014 lower than the block deck. My other question is am I going to need an adjustable cam gear because the timing has changed since parts have been machine or will I be okay with the stock gear? I'm going to get a hold of some vernier calipers tonight and measure the block deck height & head to see how much total has been taken off. But I believe that is the first time the head and block has been machines so I'm looking at .020 under factor specs. Thanks for any input you may have.

-Grant

JJ'89

Hmmm...if the previous owner did the timing chain DIY shade tree, he might have screwed-up the head gasket part of the job. It seems the headgasket installation can be tricky, and there considerable quality variations with the headgaskets available. The factory Toyota item is best and of course most expensive.

The 22RE uses chain drive for the cam, so they are sprockets, not gears. I wouldn't think that the valve timing would be changed enough to worry about. The static slack in the timing chain will be more since the block and head have been trimmed a bit. Chain is tensioned by the tensioner which uses engine oil pressure. You might get a little more rattling during a cold engine start.

Seriously doubt that piston deck height is an issue.

I'd email engnbldr.com and ask some questions. They are knowledgeable about the 22RE and a good place to obtain parts too. p.s. timing chain cover fit will probably be an issue. Good luck. My $0.02

p.s. ".20 over" is a pretty big cut...maybe 0.020 ?

mgklee

Thank you! I just picked up factory Toyota head gasket & head bolts from the stealership. I plan to start assembly Monday when I get my water pump, oil pump, & timing chain set from engine builder. Those head bolts were crazy expensive. Yes I meant .020 over. Haha

I plan on doing the clutch while the motor is out. Any good reputable brands as far as that goes?

millball

Can't go wrong with an Aisin clutch kit.

Make sure that your timing cover is not proud of the block deck, or there might be fitting troubles.

I had the machine shop bolt the timing cover to the block when they decked it, so that the fit would be perfect.

I got a set of pistons that had their tops faced .012in, and they still stand a few thousands in. above the block deck.

Too tall is trouble, sometimes requiring a head spacer plate, a little short like yours should be fine.

Maybe you could tell us your compression figures after you've got her broken in.

mgklee

I'll check out the Aisin kit, I heard Marlin is a good one too. I took the timing cover to the machine shop when I had the block decked so it has been machines with the block. I talked to Tod from Engine Builder about the pistons being .014 lower & he said you would likely not even notice it. So that's a plus. I'll post pictures of the rebuild once I start assembly. What is a good way to clean parts? For example the intake & throttle body.

I have the motor in my living room right now haha. My garage is cold here in N.Ky. This weather is strange. It was 60s last week.

JJ'89

I didn't disturb the head or pan when I replaced the timing set on mine, so I don't know about the head bolts. I'm pretty sure they are not torque-to-yield, so I'm pretty sure that the old ones, in good condition and cleaned-up, should be just fine. Hate to spend $ fixin' what's not broke...

Ain't no "good" way to clean parts...it's the worst part about DIY auto service and repair IMO. DO NOT use Scotchbrite period. Do a search. Used to buy "grease solvent" at a service station. Everything is regulated in California where my '89 pickup is located...can't get good old "Gunk" type or chlorinated hydrocarbons carb cleaner. I still have two quarts of the good carb cleaner from 1974, use seldom and still workin' good on the tough stuff.

I use regular paint thinner from Walmart and brushes, and scrapers. Razor blade scraper works good on iron and steel, too easy to dig in on Aluminum IMO. You can buy gasket remover in a can. Works good to loosen old gasket "sealer". It methylene chloride...paint remover...carcinogen. No sand paper or steel wool either, they can leave behind undesired abrasives. If use rags, don't leave behind lint, and don't overdo it with RTV sealers...particles can get loose. Have fun...hate to work on cars in the summer and the winter.