_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Hello wise Y.T., I'm back!

I'm 2-3 days from starting my new career, but, of course... truck trouble has to rear it's ugly head!

I push a 1994 Toyota Hilux, 22RE, 4x4, W65, 105"WB.

Additionally, I'm convinced I need a rear U-Joint replacement.

Precursors to the problem:
I recently moved about 70-80 miles, and in doing so, loaded my little truck down with all manner of weight. My new house has a 4-5ft rise driveway, at about 45-50 degrees from the street, to back into the garage, and I believe that BACKING UP this driveway caused my 'symptoms'

The issue:
The truck squeaks something FIERCE when I put the transmission into REVERSE and begin applying power with the clutch in, as well as to a lesser extent when engine-braking in 1st ONLY.

My Inspections/Assessment
Seemingly, the U-Joint in the rear segment of the driveshaft is intact, and NOT loose to the point that the yokes on the shaft or the 3rd member can spin or move freely up, down, or side/side.
However, given the squeak's audible location, I presume this issue to be the U-Joint because the rear of the truck is making so much noise! I'll make a Youtube video and link it, if you're interested...
Today, I'll be returning to my home town, 80 miles away, and will lube the current U-Joint at a Jiffy Lube to see if it'll fix my problem temporarily. I do, however, already have a new U-Joint ready to go in.

Advice? Comments?
Any 411 ya'll could give me, would be much appreciated! I'm likely going to differ to a mechanic for this fix, since I would have time to fix it, but I simply cannot allot the time to wrench while preparing for work daily.

Thanks!

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Here's what I've used to diagnose the problem thus-far.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...needed-103720/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles2/tech/ujoint_install

http://http://www.pirate4x4.com/arti...ujoint_install

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have changed u-joints myself in the past. It can be done, but anymore now I just pull the driveshaft and take my u-joints to a shop where they can press them in and out. Sometimes the u-joint will come out easily and then I have seen the shop have a tough time getting them out. If rust, age, or damage is present, that can make an easy job turn difficult quick. The shop I use charges me $10 to do press the joints in and out and is well worth it to me. If one is installed incorrect and comes loose on you it can do alot of damage.

Chasing noise can be a difficult at times. Have you tried jacking the rear up on jackstands and see if it makes the noise while in gear? To eleminate engine noise, I find a hill in a safe area and shut the motor off while coasting in neutral or with the clutch engaged.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

...you're right on with this comment, I totally agree in contracting out for this reason alone, if not for the myriads! of others...

I have yet to jack the truck and see if it'll do it whilst in gear (you do mean with the engine off, yea?) As far as the hill goes, I like this idea too... I'll sample this one tonight when I return to the O.A.K.

ADDITIONAL UPDATES:
Took the truck to Jiffy Lube today upon my arrival in S/C, and asked them to Lube both the T-Case and 3rd member Yokes/U-Joints, and it seems that there has been no discernible change from before the lube.

...fortunately (or, unfortunately, depending on perspective) I take B.A.R.T. for my commute, and therein won't need to worry about the truck much as it sits in a garage waiting for a fix. This noise is NOT a grinding, breaking, snapping, or some such thing.... just a pronounced Squeaking, that has a rhythm to it depending on the speed of the driveshaft. I am nearly 100% convinced it's some driveline component, but I'm unsure as to what it might be.

It only happens when:
1) When IN REVERSE. (making parallel parking somewhat embarrassing)
2) Engine Breaking in the VERY bottom of 1st gear and slightly in 2nd gear.

Next step'll be Terry's suggestion, as well as likely taking to a shop once my 1st paycheck comes in!

Any other thoughts?

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Updates:

This process seems to have gotten more lengthy...

This week has been hell for me so far, and the truck is just making it so much worse. The simple squeaking has increased in volume significantly, and now what I perceive to be the center support or carrier bearing is rattling something fierce. Any speed, sustained driving, it sounds like the cam lobes of a car, or detonation.

I dropped the vehicle off today at Toyotapro in Concord, because I'm totally S.O.L. on time to fix this, given that it's my first year of teaching and I can't be bothered to wrench right now when I've got 135 + students to worry about.

More fun news:

When I opened the garage this morning, there was a 3-4in puddle of coolant underneath it. I suspect it's leaking from the infamous timing cover... oh boy, What joy. What Rapture. I've had a VERY minor leak from the lower (almost oil-pan area) passenger's side of the timing cover for almost 1.5 years, but it's so slight that I never paid it much mind.

...but, maybe it's going. Who knows. It seems that replacement of timing covers often entails a suggested Head removal as well... or Oil Pan removal.

Any suggestions?
..I'm sure getting disheartened. But, I suppose, the truck is due for major maintenance as it's given me loyal service for 4-5 years without a peep.
So... Meh. I just hate the idea of contracting out service that I could do myself!


Any suggestions?

Sturmcrow

You know, it is very possible that Jiffy Lube did not actually lube your driveshaft, particularly if you were in for an oil change. They are actually pretty easy to lube yourself, just get a pistol-grip grease gun and jack up one of the rear tires and you'll be good to go.

oldblue

I HIGHLY doubt the lube goobers at jiffy lube greased anything on your truck. if that place actually had a grease gun hiding away somewhere, i'm sure none of those dropouts could figure out how to use it.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

Thanks SO much for the responses Strum and Crow!

I paid to have it fixed, which was, as suspected, failed zerks on f/r driveshaft U-Joints = Dry/Squeaky U-Joints.

355$ out the door. Meh. Toyotapro of Concord handled the repair in under 24hrs, and while the price was steep, I needed it done ASAP. You gotta pay for that 'ish!

I know I could have done it myself, but with the stressors of life at the current moment, I couldn't have even conceived of fixing it until at least next month. So, I had to contract out.

Regarding Jiffylube-Goob: They apparently thought that slathering the yokes themselves with Moly-B grease was 'lubing the U-Joints'. But, to their credit, the O.E.M. U-Joints had shed their zerks, so, this was as good as they could do, I suppose, sans insert a new fitting and grease away.

Thanks again ,Y.T. heads.

_RaStA_RoCkEt_

...added to Amazon cart! When my first paycheck FINALLY comes, I'll get right on that!

Thanks!