dixiemuddtoy

Just wanted to thank everybody for their help and advice on the transmission swap Finished the job last weekend, and documented the swap covering floorboard / interior mods. So for anybody that wants a great running, newer transmission / t-case in their older 2nd gen trucks / 4 runners, this is the thread for you!!!

the first group of pics is the comparison of the trannys. the old W56-B is in front, the new W56-E is in the back. Note the angle of the shifters and forward-shift t-case design of the new transmission.

dixiemuddtoy

this is a closer look at the difference in shifter location. Measurements were approx. 3 1/2" back from the center plate for the old unit, and 1 3/4" for the new one, for a difference of about 1 3/4". This was a pleasant surprise, as I had been told to expect anywhere from 2 1/2"-3" difference.

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Here, I start on the interior work. To make room for the new shifter locations, I measured out 1 3/4" from the top of the floorboard opening (toward the dashboard) and mark out a pattern to be cut.

Six new holes that hold the rubber shift boot frame are also measured up accordingly. Pilot holes are tapped.

After the aluminum frame is temporarily mounted, I made a stencil out of paper and then got a $6 sheet of ducting tin metal from Lowe's to create a cover for the new hole at the back end of the shifter opening. New pilot holes are drilled to mount the tin metal, and RTV gasket maker is used to seal around the tin metal.

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Here is the shifter cover / center console mod. To make up for the forward spacing of the shifters, I was going to move the change tray to the back of the unit. I used a rotary tool to intricately remove the change tray from the front of the leather shifter cover.

At this time, I decided it was time to clean up the cover, as time had taken its tole on the black trim. I taped off the brown plastic and laid down a few coats of gloss black rust-oleum paint to clean it up.

Some of the plastic supports had to be trimmed back to fit the change tray at the rear to make it fit flush. 2-stage epoxy was used; a layer was laid down on the top edge of the tray. The unit was placed upside down, and a hammer was used on the underside of the change tray to provide weight to allow for flush mounting as it cured.

A section of small diameter black fuel tubing was used, it being cut longitudinally along about 20" or so, and secured along the cut-out section to clean up the edges. Super-glue was used to hold it in place.

I think it turned out pretty good

dixiemuddtoy

Time to prep the new transmission. While removing the old tranny, I used the bell housing off of the new unit to keep place of the various sizes of bolts. I noticed that one or two of the bottom bolts that threaded thru the bell housing, did not thread into the new unit's bell, which I found odd.

Before the swap I had anticipated the possibility of having to replace one or more seals, so I pre-ordered the various seals that go in the tranny and t-case. This was a good thing, as my dad noticed what looked like a good bit of recent gear dope dripping out of the front seal.

While I finished with some of the interior, dad removed the front cover and replaced the seal. The original bell housing was removed off the old unit to be used in the swap, just to make sure everything goes in the way it should. This is about the time i saw our new friend, the 4' copperhead, out of the corner of my eye slithering out from under the driveway

**NOTE** it is very helpful to have a good transmission jack, 1 or 2 ratchet straps, and an extra pair of hands. Doing this job by yourself is VERY difficult.

Aside from a basic spanner / ratchet set, here is a small list of tools that help considerably:

Air compressor w/ associated air tools (impact gun, air ratchet)
Snap-On impact-rated swivel sockets in 12mm, 14mm and 17mm
Two 2'-3' extensions in 3/8" drive
Two 2'-3' extensions in 1/2" drive
Several extensions in 3/8" and 1/2" ranging from 3"-12"
clutch line-up tool (if doing clutch at same time)
Plenty of light and PB blaster

Many thanks to my dad (in the pictures) for taking his entire weekend in helping me complete the swap

dixiemuddtoy

After taking about 45 minutes getting the transmission in place on the crankshaft and a few bolts tightened down, we decided to take a break. I went to the cab to see if my predictions and calculations were correct.

HELL YEAH!!! it works great. clearance from the radio cluster is perfect, no interference whatsoever. the stick is not much father forward than the original unit's shifter due to the angle of the arm and less-than-anticipated forward relocation of the shifters.

The only thing I forgot to account for was the new, closer location of the transfercase shifter to the transmission shifter, as the aluminum cover to the rubber shift cover was interfering. I took the tin-metal shears I used earlier and cut about 1 1/4" up on either side of the top of the hole for the t-case shifter, and hammered it flat.

This worked great, and when installed, the rubber shift boots conformed to it fine. The only thing that looks a little out-of-place is the fact that the shifters come out of the transmission and transfer-case at opposite angles, so the shift-boots and leather covers are a bit stretched out. However, they seem to be working fine.

The interior, for the most part, looks like it hasn't been touched at all, with the exception of my switches My work here is done.

If anyone is looking for a good transfer case, the unit from my old transmission is a great shape, top shift unit for sale for $100. Front and rear chunks, 4.10 gearig, also for sale, $150 for both (Front chunk is perfect, rear chunk needs bearings). Anybody that wants the old transmission / shifters can have it for free if they can come get it

No deliveries, local pick-ups only. Parts located in Georgia, zip 30039.

Thanks for reading!!!