packnru

My clutch pedal works fine as long as the truck is in neutral.

Once I put it in gear, with the pedal down towards the floor;

1. The pedal does not come back up.

2. I could not get the transmission back into neutral, well until I stalled the truck.

Any help would be appreciated.


Greg

fierohink

Just to get a better picture of what is going...

The truck is running and in neutral. When you push the pedal down, you can or cannot move the stick to a gear?

If you can select a gear, does the truck shudder like it wants to move? Or do the rpms stumble like there is drag on the motor?

You said the pedal doesn't come back up when the stick is in gear, does it come back up if you push it down while in neutral?

packnru

With the truck running, I pushed in the clutch pedal. Put the truck in reverse, and then the clutch pedal did not come back up.

I also could not get the shifter out of reverse. This was today.

I drive it home the other day (first time it happened). I pulled into the driveway. Pushed in the clutch and put the truck in neutral. This is when I noticed the clutch pedal staying down.

I cut the truck off. The pedal acted fine.

I went out to go to work yesterday. I started the truck with the clutch pedal out and the truck in neutral. I pushed in the clutch and went to put the truck in reverse and it would not go into reverse, just grinding.

fierohink

How does the pedal feel when you push it? Is it lighter to push than normal? Does it move quicker?

I'm leaning toward thinking it is a hydraulic issue i.e. not building/holding enough pressure to flex the pressure plate and get the clutch to engage and disengage, this would explain why when you push the clutch in now to grab reverse you can't move the stick all the way in to gear and hear grinding.

I want to rule out that your clutch is totally smoked, make sure you have run either in front of or behind your truck that you can drive 10-20 feet, then shut your truck off, put it in gear (whichever side you cleared forward or reverse), push the clutch safety switch, start the truck. You should roll and jerk either forward or backward. Mash on the brakes and see if the truck stalls or if the clutch slips and doesn't stall the motor. Then shut the truck off with the key.

If the truck stalls then you probably have some life felt in it and is most lkely only a hydraulic issue. If the truck doesn't stall, you need a clutch and then you can diagnose the remainder once that is resolved.

packnru

I don't think the clutch is slipping from my experience this morning. I will try your suggestion once I get enough people here to push it back in the driveway.

The pedal feels fine.

The truck only has about 120K miles on it.

fierohink

Assuming it is a hydraulic issue, check your clutch fluid reservoir. If it is low you are leaking somewhere, this stuff shouldn't really go anywhere. Check under the dash along the firewall where the rod from the clutch pedal assembly goes through the firewall for wetness or seaping of clutch fluid from the master cylinder. Also check all the hoses and piping from the clutch master cylinder down to the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission. Then check the slave itself, pull the rubber boot back and feel around to feel if anything inside the bellhousing is wet from clutch fluid.

If nothing looks out of the ordinary then you have the leap of parts faith and replace the clutch master and slave cylinders, it will probably run around $50. This should fix your problem.

I can't say 100% without seeing the truck, and I have come across two different trucks one ford and one toy that had upgraded heavy duty clutches that actually cracked and bent the clutch fork inside the bellhousing. In those two cases everything would have pointed to a hydraulic issue, until I replaced the hydros and didn't fix the problem. Yikes.

packnru

Everything is dry.

I will go ahead and replace the master and slave cylinder tomorrow and update here after I'm done.

Thanks for the help.

packnru

I just put on the master and slave cylinder. However, I have a pin hole in the steel line that comes off of the slave cylinder.

I did not see this leak yesterday. I guess moving the line while installing the new slave cylinder may have opened up the hole.

Anyway, new parts are on order.

packnru

I got everything back together.

A question on bleeding the system. I pump the clutch pedal and hold it, then opening the bleeder screw, forcing the pedal to the floor.

Then I tighten the screw. The pedal remains on the floor. Is this correct?

Once I pump the pedal, it seems fine.

Is it good to go?

Thanks

fierohink

You need to do the pump and bleed several times. Basically you keep doing it until no air bubbles come out. When you pump up the pressure, pump slowly otherwise you will agitate the air into suspension and it will just settle out later.

packnru

I did the pump and bleed several times. It seems to be ok right now. I guess I'll drive it and see how it does.

Thanks for all the help.