everlastingz289

Removing my head and therefor gotta take off the intake manifold. Just looking for the easiest way to accomplish this. I tried to split the manifold in two, upper and lower but find they stick together rather well. I was wondering if it is even worth wild to split it or if I should just try to pull the bolts holding the enitre manifold to the head? Any tips or comments on intake removal will be apprechiated. Thank-you.

Wile E. Toyote

be mindful of the "hidden bolt", there is a bolt on the lower intake that is recessed and hard to find. It is an alan head bolt near the front side of the intake under the fuel rail.

89whitetoyota

x2 on this, I believe it is right under the thermostat house. It is a long bolt too. Split them, they seem stuck but they will seperate.

Werm_Works

I'm trying to remove my intake manifold as well, got the top and bottom off but the wiring harness going down the tranny goes in between the lower manifold, is there some sort of connector on top I could remove instead of taking several connections down tranny including the 02 sensor?

netsomnia

I am trying to find a thread where someone has cut the wires at the intake manifold and added a connector there. Has anyone done this? It looks easy enough to disconnect at the O2 sensor; but, I am comfortable with cutting, stripping, tinning, splicing and insulating at the intake manifold, if necessary, I think.

Next, how long do those O2 sensors last...?

Thanks All. Great forum for the 22re and having fun working on it. Seems straightforward - front end all rebuilt and working [I couldn't resist firing it up once more to find head gasket blown]. Looking for gasket kit and probably OEM head gasket and maybe studs instead of bolts; but, after reading, looks like reusing bolts works just fine with the appropriate alignment bolts. Appreciate all tips - still in research mode before I move forward with cylinder head fix.

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

What? There is no point in that. Just reach down close to the starter and unplug all the connectors. Otherwise IF you are only pulling the head just set the manifold aside and leave the harness through it. If anything just wire it in place so it stays out of the way.

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

engnbldr.com His prices are good. The gasket kit is just a rock kit. I recently did a full rebuild on my 22re with the engnbldr street rv head. They are incredibly helpful. If you end up buying gaskets locally you'll prolly find them around 90 bucks for the head set.

netsomnia

I ended up disconnecting the wire from under the truck [ 2 around exhaust and 2 or three around engine] and pulling the total length through the intake and setting it aside. Easy enough - no modification necessary. I decided to go stock everything on this one - all except for an adjustable timing gear, if I can find a used one in good condition. Do those adjusting bolts hold up for everyone? Anyone have one for sale?

Head gasket set on the way - starting on clean-up/prep work on all of the gasket surfaces and bolt threads - the head is already milled. Looks like they took off around .027- .030 by a carpenters square [I don't own calipers].

After I have prove this 22RE will run, I plan to buy engine stand, cherry picker, and a few more tools just for rebuilding 22re's. For now, I am on the cheap.

egressin

hey im taking the head off mine right now and i got all the normal bolts i can find on the lower but still cant get it off and the only allen bolt ive found runs directly thru the thermo housing. is that the "hidden" one? does it need to come out either way?
thanks ed

netsomnia

Hello Ed. I ended up buying an allen socket adapter to be sure I do not strip that hex head. People on here and other places were saying it is easy to strip so I was very careful to get the correct tool for the job. I think it is a 6MM allen (please verify the size through your own research) and I used my ratchet extension and the socket adapter to get it out without damaging the bolt head. It sounds like you are well on your way. How did you clean the exhaust manifold? It doesn't like there is much to clean but there is a lot of rust making it hard to determine how much cleaning is required to make a good seal on the exhaust manifold. I have all of my new gaskets and I am clean up the block surface and testing the head bolt threads. It sounds like we're on the same steps so keep in touch if you want.

egressin

I haven't started cleaning yet I stopped at the timing chain. I'm also gonna clean the inside of the intake manifold and head cause they are caked with soot and oil. I'm hoping to finish everything when I get back from leave. Hopefully my buddy will work it. Only have 2 days to work on it then I leave for Korea but I will def post up what I experience. I'm really not looking forward to installing the vacuum lines since I'm missing some and there are already soooo many.

netsomnia

Don't let the vacuum lines worry you too much - the vacuum rail holds most of the tubes in place so you do not have to remove all of them - there are a lot of pics on here and let me know if you want me to take a picture of something specific on our 22RE, which is running okay and not leaking air, coolant or oil. I labeled the crap out of all the tubes whether they remained attached or not - just in case one of them came loose.

Timing chain tip: Don't forget to zip tie the new chain to the upper sprocket - this will keep you confident that timing is still set correctly - even after you remove the head assembly.

TIP: During re-assembly of head to block, if you put the hot return pipes on the head before setting the head assembly on the block be careful not to damage the head gasket in the rear left corner - I dinged mine a little and hope and prayed it would not leak when I set the head. It was the outside corner so I think I got lucky because it's not leaking. Leave the bolts on the hot pipes loose so that they can be adjusted when you are setting the head on the block. Most importantly, don't forget to torque the head bolts in order specified in manual.

pointman

U need to take it off from the xmns, than pull it through the intake manifold to take it off. Take your time. Besides the connectors you have the wire harness hold downs spread throughout the harness. I use plastic wire ties to secure the connectors to the wire harness so it doesn't flop all over the place while pulling the wire harness through and around fuel and brake lines and the intake manifold. I also tied a piece of string to the connector that connects to the o2 sensor before I pulled it through across the top of the xmns. Untie the string once u get the connector through and leave it. U r gonna need it when reinstalling the wire harness. I'm currently trying to remove my intake manifold from a '92 22Re. Gotta go look for the Allen bolt that WILIE TOYOTA talked about in his thread.

pointman

I just removed mine, and it's not that difficult, just take your time. Yes u need to disconnect all connectors, and slip off the plastic wire harness holders from their metal tabs. Be careful when doing this and don't try to force the plastic holder off or it will break. You need to pull back on the little plastic tab on the holder and at the same time slip the holder off the metal base. After disconnecting the connector for the O2 sensor, located on the drivers side of the trans.('92 Toyota 22RE), tie a piece of string to the end before pulling it through that space between the top of the trans and the cab floor. Once you get it through untie and leave the string. U r gonna need it when u reinstall the harness. I use plastic wire ties to keep everything together before I maneuver the harness out and through the intake manifold. Take your time, and hope this helps.

YotaWoRx

Take the head off with lower plenum and exhaust manifold attached

PA4runner

Hey all, I know this post is old, but I just started a head gasket job on my 94 4Runner and it's been a challenge. Your advice here has helped me through a tough spot in the job and I wanted to thank you all for your advice because I'd be pulling my hair out without it.
Take care!

netsomnia

I am glad it worked out for you and you made the effort to send feedback on your success. We had a lot of success working on the 22re thanks to this forum. I own a 2RZ-E now in my Tacoma 1stGen rust bucket and miss the tried and true 22RE. Some of the no B.S., in depth, forum conversations like we had for 22RE are lacking in other forums for the 2RZE. This forum was the best ever so far.

PA4runner

Looks like I may have spoken to soon...another tough spot, but at least I'm going back together at this point. If you can advise on this, or point me to the correct forum I'd be most appreciative. SO, front cover back on, head torqued down to correct spec (58 lb. ft.), and I CANNOT get the cam sprocket back on the cam. I am, and I hate the overuse of this word, but literally, within 1 mm of getting the thing on. The nk pulley is at zero and the notch in the sprocket is too. When I put the new guides and tensioner on, I moved both guides inward as far as they would go after releasing the tensioner. My Chilton manual was completely vague on the procedure and the instructions that came with the chain were as well. I'm virtually certain I didn't slip a link down below. What did I do?
Again, thank you for any/all advice!

PA4runner

Found the problem! When I replaced the timing chain guides, I adjusted the passenger side guide to it's tightest setting (moved it toward the middle of the engine as far as the slot in the adjuster allowed). This, apparently, leaves you about 1 mm shy of being able to get the sprocket on the camshaft. I used a flex-head wrench to loosen the adjuster bolt and let the guide "relax". Then I tightened it and the sproket popped right onto the camshaft.

Jjlanc