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I've been out of a Toyota for a little bit now. My new truck was purchased new by my grandpa. He started having problems so he bought a new truck. Bless his heart, he's not really into maintenance. I took this truck to fix, and if I'm successful I'll buy it from him.
His issue was the truck was loosing all of its coolant and overheating. It also uses some oil (200,000 miles).
Got it yesterday and noticed it was running rough at idle. Runs smooth at speed. I figured out the number 2 cylinder is not firing for some reason. It IS getting spark. (No compression/oil issue perhaps?)
Changed the spark plugs and wires and they looked horrible! The plugs are all crusty. Never seen this before. Burning antifreeze?
There is a small antifreeze leak on the passenger side of the block. Haven't pinpointed that yet. I'll update as I go. I appreciate any help!
I don't know what is going on with the engine for certain, but those old plugs are definitely the WRONG spark plugs for the 22R-E engine.
The best replacements are: NGK BPR5EY or the Toyota OEM Denso W16EXR-U
The plugs you took out look like ones for a newer Toyota engine.
Someone else will chime in about what the color of the crusty bits on the spark plugs mean. You can also do a Google search and you will probably find an explanation on the colors of old spark plugs.
Thanks for the links. It appears the deposits could be from oil. None of the plugs were wet or oily when I pulled them, though. The plugs I replaced them with were supposedly the correct plugs. I don't have the part number with me, but I can check it out later. The new plugs only had one electrode.
I think my next step will be a compression test. My main goal right now is to get that number 2 cylinder firing so I can at least drive the truck and diagnose everything else. It runs as is, but I don't like driving with a dead cylinder.
Compression test and maybe cylinder leak down test may reveal blown headgasket. How's the exhaust, blue smoke? Like old87yota said, maybe wrong plugs as well, stay with NGK BPR5EY or Denso W16EXR-U plugs are the correct temperature. Good luck
It doesn't smoke at all when it is worm. Nada. When I first start it, there is some vapor, but it quickly clears up.
The plugs I got are Autolite APP64. Do spark plugs make that much of a difference? Not being a smart a$$, but I always thought plugs were plugs as long as they are gapped correctly...
I don't mind putting those other plugs in since they are about half the price of the Autolites.
It seems that Japanese engines just run smoother and last longer with a Japanese brand spark plug. Toyota puts both spark plugs I mentioned as direct replacements in the owners manual. Spark plugs also have different "heat ranges" and are designed to work with certain ignition systems.
I believe that both brands I mentioned come pre-gapped, but don't quote me on that.
Since you have some engine problems, don't be surprised if the new spark plugs foul up. I currently have an oil leak in my third cylinder and that has fouled up just that plug but the rest look fine.
Do a compression and leak down test on cylinder #2 (or all cylinders while you are at it) and see what is the main problem with the engine.
I would fix the coolant leak you mentioned in your first post and then go from there.
Don't overlook simple things like a fuel injector not connected all the way or bad fuel injector wires!
its always worth doing a leak down test. because it confirms your suspicions. but it looks to me that a rebuild is in your future. how far is up to you. 140 in the second cylinder could get you back and forth to work for a while.
A fast way to check for a leaking head gasket is to remove your oil filler cap and look under it. If you see moisture ( looks like chocolate milk) you have blown head gasket. Good luck.
A fast way to check for a leaking head gasket is to remove your oil filler cap and look under it. If you see moisture ( looks like chocolate milk) you have blown head gasket. Good luck.
Just black gunk under there! Looks like the stuff you scrape off your grill before you use it. No evidence of coolant.
There is a small antifreeze leak on the passenger side of the block. Haven't pinpointed that yet. I'll update as I go.
this is a mission-critical piece of information, because it could indicate a cracked block... i know because it happened to me, and it was difficult to troubleshoot.
the truck ran pretty well, i drove it daily for months like that, but the engine was also worn out.
the other option would be to look for a used motor, from a wrecked truck or something.
this is a mission-critical piece of information, because it could indicate a cracked block... i know because it happened to me, and it was difficult to troubleshoot.
the truck ran pretty well, i drove it daily for months like that, but the engine was also worn out.
the other option would be to look for a used motor, from a wrecked truck or something.
Yikes! I have started looking a little bit for a used motor already. The plan is a leakdown test this weekend to confirm an internal issue. Then, start tearing down in anticipation of a rebuild. If the block is unusable, then I'll search hard for a used motor and do a simple swap.
i would locate the source of the leak before pulling the engine.
with my block, i could see it dripping on the ground, it was an external crack on the passenger side, in the back corner... you'll probably have to take it down to the car wash and blow the grease off of the block.
I've posted a few updates in another thread I started, but I decided this is a more fitting thread to continue with. I couldn't figure out how to delete the other thread, so I'll just let it die. Sorry for double posting!
So, I finally I've into this project and have got the head pulled and it's at the machine shop. Maybe the only noteworthy issue was two head bolts that were glued into the block with black soot. Maybe from overheating? Here are a few pictures.
Earlier you mentioned that you thought plugs were plugs. No need for the fancy plugs for the 22 motor. Just go with the Denso or NGK. I get most of my common tune up parts from the dealer. They are reasonable or the same price as part stores for the same part. Factory parts is best in most cases. About the only non OEM parts I use is for the Air and Fuel Filters.
05-01-2016, 05:41 PM
