SacSteve

Greetings,

I have a 92 4runner 3.0 l V6, 4wd, with auto trans and ac. Blew the headgaskets. Replaced the gaskets, the water pump, radiator, and thermostat, the dealer adjusted the valves. It is still getting hot! The heads look fine, there are no water leaks, no oil in the radiator, no water in the oil, the fan works fine and all the water hoses and lines are in good condition.

I just learned about the headgasket problem with these motors. I'm having a difficult time locating additional information about the design defect causing the gaskets to blow and the fix Toyota implemented to try to correct the problem. Have you experienced the overheating problem I'm describing and found a solution? I'm totally stumped and looking for someone to point me in the right direction.

Thanks!

mt_goat

Are you sure the head gaskets were installed correctly? I've heard its easy to get the left and right gaskets mixed up and if intalled on the wrong side it blocks off some of the cooling passages. Also how's the radiator condition?

Emms4runner

When you say you have replaced the radiator, did you just replace it with another 15 year old one, if so that would be a waste of time, get it re-cored so it can be eliminated.

Remove the thermostate to be 100% sure its not sticking shut, mine was and its running fine now without one.

Ive heard the initial cause of the head gaskets going was due to "the incorrect sealant used when new in the factory"

One other apparent cause of gaskets going is the "hot spot" created on the number 6 piston(or left rear) by the 'cost effective' exhaust manifold toyota decided to put on the 3vze, all the r/h side exhaust gasses are pretty much blasting into that poor #6 combustion chamber thus creating a 'hot spot'.

This alone may not be the cause of your problems, but its something to think about!

Ive fitted extractors to mine, and when the bonnet is popped, you can really tell there is alot less heat in the bay, not to mention the increase in much needed torque!

mt_goat

That sounds interesting, what do you mean by an extractor?

leebee

interesting indeed, please elaborate!

lee

SacSteve

Radiator is brand new and cost more than I want to think about. Head gaskets were definitely installed on the correct sides. I will pull the thermostat and see what happens. Any other suggestions?

rdharper

My understanding is that the main problem with the gaskets was a mandated switch from asbestos to anything else. The new type gasket would not hold up; a second attempt with a new gasket setup faired much better.

Heat is still a killer so whatever you do, don't let it overheat while troubleshooting the problem. Keep it as far from the "red" as possible.

How fast/easily does it heat up?

It sounds like your water is not circulating for whatever reason. If its not reversed gaskets, are you sure you don't have air in the system?

Emms4runner

Your kidding!


Come on guys, extractors are what we call headers down here in oz! Cant believe you've never heard of that???

mt_goat

Oh well, at least I did know what a bonnet was

rdharper

I can see the confusion, as "extraction" has a sense of active pulling. While this might be true in a tuned exhaust, a passive lowering of resistance to exhausting gases would not imply "extraction".

But we do love you Ausies. And its not as if we are totally logical up here in never-never land...

leebee

extractors = headers, who'd a thunk it!

lee

pruney81

Just out of curiosity, how much did the dealer charge you to adjust the valves?

Bigblock

Pull a heater hose off and let the air out of it.BTW ,I had Downey headers on mine.They not only increased under hood heat,they killed my low end torque.

Emms4runner

That is the exact opposite to what we are experiencing here in oz!

Might be a 'downey' thing though, cause ive heard that before about you guy guys loosing low down torque...Mine now has more torque everywhere.

If anyone wants i can host a pic of our 'Hurricane' extractors..?

mt_goat

Sure, I'd at least like to know if they are coated or wrapped?